Installing Cylinder Head with Intake Assembly Attached per FSM? (1 Viewer)

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Oct 23, 2018
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Colorado
Hello!
I am in the middle of a head gasket job.
I wanted to see who has installed their head with the upper and lower intake bolted to the head per the FSM.

I haven't seen any examples of people reinstalling per the FSM.
It seems others only bolt the lower intake up prior to installing the head.

Is there a reason for not bolting the upper and lower intake (including fuel rail, injectors, fuel filter, egr valve etc.) to the head, prior to reinstalling the cylinder head to the block?

FYI - harness removed at firewall, engine in truck
 
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I think I'd bolt up the lower, but not the upper manifold.
Pulling the engine harness through the complete manifold would be a PITA
Bolting the top section on in the car is not difficult
 
I agree with @mudgudgeon I think if you have the engine out of the truck then it would make sense. Fitting the lower would be OK but doesn't really gain you much.
 
I didn't have either bolted to mine with it in. No issues since. To heck with pulling the entire harness out. If I was replacing it sure....
 
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I just finished my head gasket. I put the head on then attached the lower, then the upper. I don't really see how it would make it that much easier out of the truck. It would make it much heavier too, making it harder to manipulate into place.
 
Thanks for the advice.
Head and ARP studs are set.
0699B714-23F5-408E-B97A-814D7646B150.jpeg
 
I used the Opel set. You will have two extra. Had to cut/grind down two that go underneath the cam gears. Roughly 1/4"-1/2". ARP 209-4702
 
Any modification with this set did they seat all the way down on the block and have enough threads for the fasteners?
Seated fully, cleaned threads prior with thread chaser.
Plenty of thread engagement.
No modification of studs required.
Don’t sweat it, buy those and forget everything else you’ve read.
 
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Now that you mentioned more questions did the stud kit recommend a new tourqe spec or just use factory tourqe spec?
 
I used the TT Supra ARP set as well in my new engine build last August. Probably a non-issue, but I used the original Toyota flat washer from the original head bolts instead of the washers in the ARP set.
 
Seated fully, cleaned threads prior with thread chaser.
Plenty of thread engagement.
No modification of studs required.
Don’t sweat it, buy those and forget everything else you’ve read.
-Mechanical engineer raised by a machinist
So I bought the ARP studs mentioned, hand tightened into the block and test fit with a head gasket in place. Most of the nuts are even with the top of the stud, maybe half a thread on the nut showing at hand tight. One stud went in by hand a little further that the others, this one has about two threads of the nut showing.
Is this acceptable?
Assuming you want the nut fully engaged on the stud, in which case do I just run the stud out a bit until the nuts fully engaged?
 
So I bought the ARP studs mentioned, hand tightened into the block and test fit with a head gasket in place. Most of the nuts are even with the top of the stud, maybe half a thread on the nut showing at hand tight. One stud went in by hand a little further that the others, this one has about two threads of the nut showing.
Is this acceptable?
Assuming you want the nut fully engaged on the stud, in which case do I just run the stud out a bit until the nuts fully engaged?
I have about 500 miles on mine now with the arp studs i used arp instructions hand tight not torqued down into the block also bought the thread chaser oncehead is on torqued to 80ft pounds this is what the arp nuts and washers look like. I also put the head on with the intake manifold on it all torqued to spec not sure how to do it and torque the intake bolts in the truck was wondering how that could be possible when i was removing the intake manifold in the truck.

Screenshot_20211027-221823.png
 
Believe me i took all kinds of measurements before using them they have plenty of thread engagement into the block
 

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