Newb attempt at dropping the ENTIRE rear axle assembly (1 Viewer)

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Bleeding the brakes isn't all that hard. I have done it several times on both my vehicles without any special tools following the bleeding procedure here on mud or the FSM - i did need my wife to pump the breaks but that was it. Took it to a dirt road, locked up the brakes several times to activate the ABS and re-bled and good to go. Replace the old rubber lines while you are at it is a good suggestion. What is the big fear of opening the break system? You can do it if I can.
 
Had a bad experience on my 88 firebird …. I was 21 but still… let me see how the donor looks. I do have all of the sst for the 80 now so got sum thinkin n drinkin to do.
 
:popcorn:
oh good.
Part 2
These sequels are all the same. Run toward the scary voice in the dark.

Personally, I don't see how an axle can be replaced without a few lines severed in the process. I mean a proper brake bleed by a machine and a habitual operator [professional] runs about 60 US bucks. (wouldn't go more than 90 mostly peaceful US dollars in some areas)

But still, hats off to the corporate approach.
 
So to minimize the amount of fluid - I’m thinking to clamp here and then disconnecting the brake line. Is this what your reference @Comet ?

Once I figure out this piece - the axle will drop

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When I took mine off the 94 to the 96 pulled front and rear axles, did the rear line from the frame, took a small piece of tubing and put a bolt in one end, slipped the other end over the brake line. Did not loose much fluid at all, then just bleed all the calipers and lspv on both trucks was easy pessy and went though maybe a quart and half for both trucks if that.
 
Yes sir, that us where I would clamp with vice grips. If the rubber is cracked on that line due to age, I would plan on swapping out the line anyway. If I remember correctly, the lines fail from the inside out.
 
@Comet do you know the type of plug I could buy to screw on to block it off? trying to avoid clamping the line since this may take me a few days
 
Most likely there's a peace of the old line on the axle going back in if so take that down to the ace hardware or autozone and see what you can find.
But clamping the old line and replacing it with a new one when the donor axle goes back in is a solid approach ;)
 
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Toyota 9094702933HOSE, FLEXIBLE
 
https://partsouq.com is your friend , type in your VIN number quick and easily find the part numbers you need . then you can google them and see where you want to buy them. ;)
And I often purchase from them.
 
No one wouldn’t happen to have part numbers would they ? :hmm: :hmm: For that hose I plan to clamp on ?
Text me next time when you need quick answers… been away from forum.
 
Text me next time when you need quick answers… been away from forum.
Dam, I thought I had that number for him pretty fast 🤷‍♂️ LOL
 
If you have a compressor, a vaccuum bleeder was the best investment I made for bleeding brakes. Did a full flush on my 80 including brake and clutch systems in circa 10 minutes last week.
 
10mm lines; however, I would only do it the way I described it. Not because I am right but just because I always try the simplest way first.
 
@Comet do you know the type of plug I could buy to screw on to block it off? trying to avoid clamping the line since this may take me a few days
As I mentioned in may earlier post , I use vacuum caps to block off the steel brake lines when I have them disconnected for servicing or WHY. For the female rubber lines you can get 10mmx1.0 pitch thread inverted flare plugs that will screw into the hose at most auto parts stores.
 

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