Tips Requested for Engine Wiring Harness Removal and Refurbishment - 1994 (1 Viewer)

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I wonder how hard it is to get toyota color coded wire on spools. I wouldn't mind a source so that I can make good repairs or replacements when it comes to wiring harnesses.
 
I wonder how hard it is to get toyota color coded wire on spools. I wouldn't mind a source so that I can make good repairs or replacements when it comes to wiring harnesses.

Getting 2 colour coated wire is not difficult, getting 3, such as the dot colours on some Toyota wires, can be a challenge.
 
You could try and find a few used wire harnesses from part outs and mash the good parts form them all to make one good one. Buy the few connectors you may need new. Make sure you get a the tool to pull the pins out of the connectors. Here's a thread I found about the tools Great Terminal Pin Removal Tool for 80 Series - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/great-terminal-pin-removal-tool-for-80-series.885132/.

Also if you need to use new wire seek out Automotive wire rated for engine bays.

I have a 96 so the OEM wire harness was still available. I went with that because the cost of buying new connectors and pins I needed individually was going to cost almost as much as a whole new harness from Toyota. My wire harness was in really bad shape.
 
Well the hood is open... Haven't dug in just yet though.

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Tore into it today, making some progress. Called it a day when I tried to pull the upper intake manifold but its still stuck somewhere. I couldn't manage to pull the harness up through the bottom of the intake manifold so hopefully removing the upper portion will make it easier.

Lots of brittle clips (especially on the injectors) that snapped upon removal.


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Step 2: Have a beer.
this step is definitely the most important, of course if one is working on a LX450 then one must substitute chardonnay :cheers:

In all seriousness to the OP, that wire harness is a real bear - or, should I say snake. Mine fought me even with the engine on a stand! A new one is easier, but not "easy" :bang:
 
Make sure you remove all the bolts from under the manifold to remove the upper half. The ones closer to the firewall are a pain. I usually run 3-4 extensions to reach them from underneath.
 
I'm late to the party but here's my $.02 worth. The engine has reached senior citizen status and needs a boat load of stuff to be done. I'd say, acquire parts over time until you've amassed a sizeable pile of parts then yank the engine. Do all PMs needed, including the HG, if needed. You can pull the wiring harness with the engine rather easily and separate it and work on it leisurely. This assumes this 80 isn't your DD. While the engine is out, you can also do the rear main seal, tranny input seal, motor mounts and a host of other services.
 
Went back at it today and pulled the harness out. It's in rough shape but at least its on the workbench now. Once the upper intake manifold was out and all of the wires under it disconnected it was a bit difficult but doable to pull it through.

Thus far no luck on sourcing a new (discontinued) harness. They are out there but big $$$. I'm going to keep looking for another used one that's in better shape than mine, I would really prefer to avoid combing through this one with how rough it is.

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@alia176 - I totally agree that pulling the whole engine is probably the best approach.... I'm just really trying to avoid that route if possible.
 
Went back at it today and pulled the harness out. It's in rough shape but at least its on the workbench now. Once the upper intake manifold was out and all of the wires under it disconnected it was a bit difficult but doable to pull it through.

Thus far no luck on sourcing a new (discontinued) harness. They are out there but big $$$. I'm going to keep looking for another used one that's in better shape than mine, I would really prefer to avoid combing through this one with how rough it is.

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@alia176 - I totally agree that pulling the whole engine is probably the best approach.... I'm just really trying to avoid that route if possible.
I was in the same boat. Ordered a used harness from eBay and one from another junkyard. They were both in worse shape then mine. So just went through mine and started cleaning, rewrapping, and replaced connectors that I found brittle or broken. To my surprise I was able find all the connectors through Toyota, Ballenger or just googling the number. It’s looks intimidating, but once you do one you see how it easy it is. Just make sure you triple check the orientation on the connector before removing. I also ordered a Jegs wire loom kit to help. Pretty time consuming, but came a lot cheaper then getting new one and mine ended up coming out just as good.
 
I was in the same boat. Ordered a used harness from eBay and one from another junkyard. They were both in worse shape then mine. So just went through mine and started cleaning, rewrapping, and replaced connectors that I found brittle or broken. To my surprise I was able find all the connectors through Toyota, Ballenger or just googling the number. It’s looks intimidating, but once you do one you see how it easy it is. Just make sure you triple check the orientation on the connector before removing. I also ordered a Jegs wire loom kit to help. Pretty time consuming, but came a lot cheaper then getting new one and mine ended up coming out just as good.
Also, I pulled motor so that helped me get it out easier.
 
Went back at it today and pulled the harness out. It's in rough shape but at least its on the workbench now. Once the upper intake manifold was out and all of the wires under it disconnected it was a bit difficult but doable to pull it through.

Thus far no luck on sourcing a new (discontinued) harness. They are out there but big $$$. I'm going to keep looking for another used one that's in better shape than mine, I would really prefer to avoid combing through this one with how rough it is.

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@alia176 - I totally agree that pulling the whole engine is probably the best approach.... I'm just really trying to avoid that route if possible.

Good job 👌. Toyota does sell connectors.and pins with pigtails as long as you can supply the number on the connector. Fyi.

Fyi, both of my knock sensor wiring were quite brittle and I ran them from the sensors all the way to the ecu. I kept getting erroneous knock sensor readings, which in turn would lower the timing and make me lose power that I just could not afford to lose!
 

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