PLEASE HELP! 2000 LC dies while driving/no check engine **UPDATED 8/17/21** (1 Viewer)

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I went through the same issue as you did Wendy. The same symptoms. I did the following:

TB cleaned
fuel pump/relays/filter
Cam shaft position (this was the issue)
Crank shaft position

I did it all since a 15-20 years old car will have something to pick on eventually. better to be safe than sorry. Also the dealership were of no help. Find an old school toyota mechanic.
 
I went through the same issue as you did Wendy. The same symptoms. I did the following:

TB cleaned
fuel pump/relays/filter
Cam shaft position (this was the issue)
Crank shaft position

I did it all since a 15-20 years old car will have something to pick on eventually. better to be safe than sorry. Also the dealership were of no help. Find an old school toyota mechanic.
Thanks for that info! Question: with a bad Cam Shaft Position Sensor did your check engine light come on?

And yep….I agree that eventually with so many miles things are bound to start failing hence why I’d prefer to just start doing preventative.

All of this helps me to determine what I need to change. Up to now my rig has had only coils, alternator, a couple belts and general tune ups. She has def been very good to me. Now I gotta be good to her! 😂
 
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Thanks for that info! Question: with a bad Cam Shaft Position Sensor did your check engine light come on?

And yep….I agree that eventually with so many miles things are bound to start failing hence why I’d prefer to just start doing preventative.

All of this helps me to determine what I need to change. Up to now my rig has had only coils, alternator, a couple belts and general tube ups. She has def been very good to me. Now I gotta be good to her! 😂
Hi windy, there were no check engine light on whatsoever. This happened multiple times and I kept having it checked to no avail. No one understood why it was doing such until my mechanic suggested it's the cam shaft position sensor. I would be driving fine on the highway; pull into an exit. As I'm waiting at the ramp for the light, the car would shut off. I would have to wait 10-15 minutes. I smell gasoline and such and always thought it was the fuel pump. But my mechanic said its the cam shaft position sensor. He was right considering I had the fuel pump replaced before the cam shaft was diagnosed.
 
Hi windy, there were no check engine light on whatsoever. This happened multiple times and I kept having it checked to no avail. No one understood why it was doing such until my mechanic suggested it's the cam shaft position sensor. I would be driving fine on the highway; pull into an exit. As I'm waiting at the ramp for the light, the car would shut off. I would have to wait 10-15 minutes. I smell gasoline and such and always thought it was the fuel pump. But my mechanic said its the cam shaft position sensor. He was right considering I had the fuel pump replaced before the cam shaft was diagnosed.
Ok. I get it now. Thanks for clarifying. Your situation was a little different than mine. Mine would only stall while it was in motion. It never stalled while it was idle at a stop. Sounds like yours was just the opposite.

Trust me….I’m taking notes. All this is good info to have for future!

And I truly hope this thread helps others with the same issues. God only knows I banged my head against the wall for months. 😂
 
Hi windy, there were no check engine light on whatsoever. This happened multiple times and I kept having it checked to no avail. No one understood why it was doing such until my mechanic suggested it's the cam shaft position sensor. I would be driving fine on the highway; pull into an exit. As I'm waiting at the ramp for the light, the car would shut off. I would have to wait 10-15 minutes. I smell gasoline and such and always thought it was the fuel pump. But my mechanic said its the cam shaft position sensor. He was right considering I had the fuel pump replaced before the cam shaft was diagnosed.
I had to diagnose a similar issue on my girlfriend's son's Oldsmobile 88 with the Buick 3.8L. His issue was the crankshaft position sensor, and it would die driving down the road with no check engine light, and would eventually restart after a rest. A couple of shops misdiagnosed it before I looked at it, but I was able to connect an oscilloscope and see that the signal output wasn't correct. It seems like some of the early OBD2 (his was a '99) wouldn't throw a code for some things that it seems like they should.
 
Thank you! It’s been quite the journey! Glad you got yours resolved also. I’m going to start working on preventative. I have almost 300K miles. I’m going to add that to my list!
Original owner 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser. Identical problem you experienced. In my case this is what my mechanic found: "Inspected engine ROO box. Found discolored ECM Fuse. Found to be hot to the touch. Found fuse pins poor connection over time melted holder. Added fuse jumper to utilize another batter power full-time voltage source (unused relay connection to power CKT." Recommended replacing fuse box (part no longer manufactured by Toyota. On-line part runs upward of $500 plus labor fairly expensive to replace. I'm going with the work around fix for now to see it it holds.
 

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