JT outfitters Headers (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

cps432

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 4, 2016
Threads
16
Messages
3,128
Location
Bozeman, MT
Is anybody running these headers from JT outfitters? If so, did your mating surface look like this? And what did you do about it?
5468381E-8F12-4E9E-BD49-34C666CBAC4D.jpeg
14CE490F-9432-49F2-B4AB-1C8E4A26A355.jpeg


Also, how did you connect the catalytic converter to the collector?
 
I am running those. I use a Remflex gasket between the head and the header. Yes, my mating surface looks like that.

In my case, the thickness of the header does not perfectly match the thickness of the intake manifold at the shared bolt-down points, so I made some spacers by cutting washers in half and putting one on the intake manifold half of the bolt.

I would also recommend sourcing studs instead of bolts from @ToyotaMatt
 
Last edited:
almost positive that is what I am running. I also did split washers and I have had to replace the gasket once or twice.
 
Thanks fellas! How’d you go about connecting the headers to the cat? I’m toying with cutting my OEM down pipe, having a bung for an o2 sensor welded where the bypass pipe connects and using a flex pipe to connect to the collector...
ADEACD06-D708-4C43-BF77-170D33B3F9F5.jpeg
59278533-C837-4889-A426-EF93F4612FB3.jpeg


I have a sneaking suspicion that these headers were designed for a Chevy straight six...
 
Don't cut the down-pipe. It's stainless and you can sell it if it's intact to get back some of your costs.

Once the header is installed, easiest is to drive to the nearest Exhaust shop (your neighbors will hate you) or have it towed and let them do the rest of the exhaust. A cheap $100 CAT can be welded in so you don't have to worry about those funky Toyota flanges or flange gaskets. If you still have the original CAT, they are VERY restrictive (worse with age) and should be replaced with a free-flowing one anyway or you defeat the purpose of the Headers. Man-a-Fre sells a bolt in kit, if you're interested.

If you search under 'Tri-Mil' or Tri-Y headers there are few threads on fitment.

The Remflex will compensate for some of the difference in flange thickness between the header and intake, but half-washer trick works well. Alternative is to buy a spot-face cutter and remove material on the high-side flange, or have a machine shop do it.
 
Thread hijack.. my exhaust smells like absolute garbage.
My wife doesn't like me to wear the same clothes to dinner that I was wearing while driving.
I had actually been thinking about adding a cat back into it. Are any of y'all getting reasonable drivability catless?

My muffler is super old.. maybe just replacing the muffler will help? Thoughts?

The carb and distributor are tuned well.
 
Your exhaust and clothes stink because of no CAT. It's very noticeable on the trail when driving behind someone with no CAT.

Have a cheap universal CAT welded in. Have dinner in dirty clothes, again.
 
Don't cut the down-pipe. It's stainless and you can sell it if it's intact to get back some of your costs.

Once the header is installed, easiest is to drive to the nearest Exhaust shop (your neighbors will hate you) or have it towed and let them do the rest of the exhaust. A cheap $100 CAT can be welded in so you don't have to worry about those funky Toyota flanges or flange gaskets. If you still have the original CAT, they are VERY restrictive (worse with age) and should be replaced with a free-flowing one anyway or you defeat the purpose of the Headers. Man-a-Fre sells a bolt in kit, if you're interested.

If you search under 'Tri-Mil' or Tri-Y headers there are few threads on fitment.

The Remflex will compensate for some of the difference in flange thickness between the header and intake, but half-washer trick works well. Alternative is to buy a spot-face cutter and remove material on the high-side flange, or have a machine shop do it.
There is a muffler shop two blocks from me. The Mexican neighbors around here will probably come out and cheer me on when they hear it... lots of loud Silverado’s and decked out Honda’s driving by.
 
There is a muffler shop two blocks from me. The Mexican neighbors around here will probably come out and cheer me on when they hear it... lots of loud Silverado’s and decked out Honda’s driving by.

Just like Los Angeles!

Easiest then would be to concentrate on making the new setup leak-free and let the muff shop do the header-back exhaust. Being in CO, I'd ask for 11ga 2.5" Aluminized pipe. That's what the MAF kit is. They can weld the O2 bung into the pipe just after the collector.

You might show the pix to the Muffler shop as to how you want the pipe and muffler and tail routed. NOT being in CA, you can get the Universal Magnaflow for $200 or so. Or at least that's what it was before Bidenflation.

 
Just like Los Angeles!

Easiest then would be to concentrate on making the new setup leak-free and let the muff shop do the header-back exhaust. Being in CO, I'd ask for 11ga 2.5" Aluminized pipe. That's what the MAF kit is. They can weld the O2 bung into the pipe just after the collector.

You might show the pix to the Muffler shop as to how you want the pipe and muffler and tail routed. NOT being in CA, you can get the Universal Magnaflow for $200 or so. Or at least that's what it was before Bidenflation.

You might want to double check those prices..... 200-300 a year ago, yeah, but I just looked and they’re upwards of $1500😳

I just installed a new cat back exhaust a few months ago.
image.jpg
image.jpg
the muffler is aluminum but the pipe is regular old steel...
 
Ah, ok, then let them hook it all up to the existing system.

Is you CAT new(ish)?

I didn't realize CO now has non-Federal smog requirements. Just looked at the Magnaflow website ! Wow, same CAT required as Kalif.

But do they check the part # there? Here the tech actually crawls under and checks the stamped part # of the CAT to verify you've paid the extra $1000 dollars for the same CAT as the Federal one. I had a guy who works for Magnaflow verify that.

Bastids!
 
Ah, ok, then let them hook it all up to the existing system.

Is you CAT new(ish)?

I didn't realize CO now has non-Federal smog requirements. Just looked at the Magnaflow website ! Wow.
I replaced that cat with the bolt in magnaflow about 3 years ago or so. It should be fine. Colorado is adopting all the lovely failed policies Cali has been enforcing. That’s why I’m gtfo and pulling all my smog crap.

I’ve never had the tech do any real inspections. In Boulder City there is one emissions test site that is authorized by the city council. Everyone registered in boulder has to go there so it gets very busy and I’ve generally been pushed through. If it fails the dyno they fail you. If it fails the gas cap test they fail you. Nobody ever crawled under my truck. I bet they wouldn’t even bat an eye if they saw a Holley sniper installed as long as it passes the gas cap and dyno tests. But that is changing....
 
Last edited:
Definitely.

I didn't understand you had all those new components already.

So seems like all you have to do it just get the header collector connected to the CAT and have an O2 bung installed. Should be easy and cheap.

It's really ridiculous and illogical to implement such draconian smog laws because pre OBD-II vehicles make up way less than 1% of the annual miles driven! They just want to force everyone into a Prius... Even in Kalif new cars don't have to be tested for the first 8 years.
 
Definitely.

I didn't understand you had all those new components already.

So seems like all you have to do it just get the header collector connected to the CAT and have an O2 bung installed. Should be easy and cheap.

It's really ridiculous and illogical to implement such draconian smog laws because pre OBD-II vehicles make up way less than 1% of the annual miles driven! They just want to force everyone into a Prius... Even in Kalif new cars don't have to be tested for the first 8 years.
That’s exactly what it is.
 
Trouble is, driving it to the muffler shop without the O2 sensor... Holley recommends 1:30-2:00 position.
That’s what my concern was... the sniper will learn bad habits and may not work at all if it’s not got the o2 sensor sensing anything...
 
It might actually run... not sure. But it has a base setting. If it has tach signal, I think it will. Just reset the wizard after chasing vac leaks, timing, etc.
 
You still got to figure vac for brake booster, charcoal can, PCV, and dizzy vent. Advance is easy.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom