BATTERY MANAGEMENT (1 Viewer)

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I am working on my dual battery system
I currently have a blue Sea isolator but I think I want to do something different. I was looking at redarc stuff but nor sure what to do. Is there a way to be able to charge with ac/DC and Solar. Basically I want to be able to plug in the vehicle at the house to the wall and charge the batteries and then on the trail charge with alternator and solar. What would be the best way to achieve this. Thanks for the help, this is like speaking a foreign language to me.

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It would really help you get better recommendations if you describe your current or proposed setup and what your intended use case and loads are.

Home charging is pretty straight forward using something like a NOCO Genius charger or similar.

Alternator and/or Solar in vehicle charging can be more complicated depending on budget, goals, etc.
 
Going in a fj60
Have an arb dual zone 73 qt fridge. Currently have a portable 100 watt solar system, but will more than likely will go bigger. Want to be able use both batteries to start vehicle. Also want to be able to charge both batteries correctly.
 
I just bought a CTEK charger for home use. I take it on the road also if I think I will be anywhere near a 120v outlet. Seems to work well so far. Charging a deep cycle AGM and a starting AGM.
 
I have a dual battery system on my 200 series LC. I went with CTEK unit to charge the starter and 2nd battery from shore power and a REDARC BCDC 1225D to charge the 2nd battery and to provide solar charging capability. I liked the fact that the REDARC was one self contained unit. It and the 2nd battery mount nicely on Slee's mounting bracket.
 
If you want the Cadillac of all battery management, look up redarc manager 30, its $$$$, but it does everything you are after at top notch quality. Allows alternator/solar charging, also has integrated 110V plug to charge at home, with a smart display.
 
I have a similar setup in my 80. I use the blue sea ML-ACR. That allows me to charge my aux battery while I drive. In the rear quarter panel I have a + and - post that I have a fuse block coming off of, an inverter, and I have attached Noco ring terminals. That way all I do is connect the Noco charger with the quick connect. The ML-ARC will then sense the higher voltage on your aux battery and then start to charge your main battery as well. The CTEK might do like the NOCO charger in that once you plug it in then it starts charging based on how it was last set. Which is nice because you just plug it in and go.
If I wanted to add solar I'd just wire a solar controller to the main post in the back and then attach the panels to the controller.

Since you've got the ML-ACR you're already most of the way there. The Redarc will probably only really benefit charging the aux battery with better charging algorithms when you're driving. A decent solar controller and a charger like a CTEK or a NOCO would basically get you the same charging algorithms while you're parked.
 
Going in a fj60
Have an arb dual zone 73 qt fridge. Currently have a portable 100 watt solar system, but will more than likely will go bigger. Want to be able use both batteries to start vehicle. Also want to be able to charge both batteries correctly.
My engine room batts bind via dash-switched 200A dumb relay. It's really just voltage equalization, but on account of the dumb alternator in the truck and simple current/voltage monitoring, it works fine. Binding the batts enables start capability from the aux batt in case of a dead start batt.

Follow-on ramblings...

Didn't see it mentioned, but the right AC inverter can provide plug-in shore power/charging functionality.
My solution was a low frequency, pure sinewave unit with shore power inputs in addition to solar, generator, and battery inputs. 30A shore charge capacity.

Fridge is in the back? ARB says it pulls 3amps constant @40ish degrees.
Recommend adding or moving a batt to the rear and using a BCDC to maintain it.
If running without an inverter then the fridge is inverting the 12VDC to 110VAC, which adds heat to the fridge. Recommend adding (the right) inverter to do the voltage conversion, enabling the fridge to run cooler for less time on 110VAC (~10X lower current flow). +sum to batt runtime.

Have a rear batt bank fed by a RedArc BCDC. Front and rear batts share chassis and frame grounds with a single positive run between the aux engine batt and the Redarc in the rear. I use the RedArc as the relay in that circuit with dash switch control over its operation.
 
I have a dual battery system on my 200 series LC. I went with CTEK unit to charge the starter and 2nd battery from shore power and a REDARC BCDC 1225D to charge the 2nd battery and to provide solar charging capability. I liked the fact that the REDARC was one self contained unit. It and the 2nd battery mount nicely on Slee's mounting bracket.
FrazzledHunter, What ctek charger did you use. I am going with the redarc and will sell the Blue Sea ACR. Also how did you hook up the ctek so it will charge both.
 
FrazzledHunter, What ctek charger did you use. I am going with the redarc and will sell the Blue Sea ACR. Also how did you hook up the ctek so it will charge both.
The CTEK is a MULTI US 7002 but oops I guess I made it sound like I permanently wired the CTEK. I'm not that talented LOL. I just have the CTEK available for charging either battery via the battery clamps. I can also use it as a supply for something that requires a higher amperage 12V cigarrette lighter type of power source. I can also use it for the other car if need be. Sorry for causing confusion.
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It's cool. Can you hook it to one battery and it will charge both or do you have to charge each battery
Each battery charges separately for 2 reasons: the dinky CTEK doesn't have the current capability and, in my case, the batteries are of 2 different chemistries necessitating different settings on the CTEK.
 

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