Side Plate Gasket Leak? (1 Viewer)

[LCnAZ]

Hi guys. I had never heard of the "side plate" on the passenger side of the engine until seeing it in one of the restoration threads. I think I have leaking at the side plate, as the it and the engine are oil wet from there down. Thought at first if might be valve cover gasket, but wetness is not above the side plate.

I searched around, but not finding any specific info on the side plate or replacing the gasket. If you guys know of a place, could you provide a link...or your wisdom on this?

Thanks.

EDIT: FYI...I've since learned that the "side plate" is the "Push Rod Cover." Post #8 has FSM and part number info.

 

[SteveH]

I wrote an article published a couple years ago in Toyota Trails describing how to do this on an FJ62. Not impossible, but not a quick job. Getting the cover out of the engine bay is half the battle. Let me look for the article tonight.

 

[OSS]

That side plate is fairly thin sheet metal and it's gasket isn't NASA grade - it's just a paper/cork gasket.
The distributor has to be pulled to remove the side cover plate - and then it just comes off a bit at a time maybe using a chisel on an edge to get it started.
Mine (after 30 years) came off without much fuss so yours probably isn't stuck on there too tight either.

When you get the cover off, you'll discover a lot of sludge buildup on the inside of the cover- obviously you'll want to clean all that crud off.
Be careful trying to remove the sludge clinging to the engine block. You don't want gobs of it dropping down a lifter bore.
I removed all my pushrods and lifters then plugged all the lifter bores with rag pieces before attempting to de-sludge the engine block.

You'll want to be very careful tightening up all the little bolts when you reinstall the plate- don't over tighten them. Just pinky tight. Otherwise you can bend the plate at the hole and deform the flat sealing surface.

 

[LCnAZ]

That side plate is fairly thin sheet metal and it's gasket isn't NASA grade - it's just a paper/cork gasket.
The distributor has to be pulled to remove the side cover plate - and then it just comes off a bit at a time maybe using a chisel on an edge to get it started.
Mine (after 30 years) came off without much fuss so yours probably isn't stuck on there too tight either.

When you get the cover off, you'll discover a lot of sludge buildup on the inside of the cover- obviously you'll want to clean all that crud off.
Be careful trying to remove the sludge clinging to the engine block. You don't want gobs of it dropping down a lifter bore.
I removed all my pushrods and lifters then plugged all the lifter bores with rag pieces before attempting to de-sludge the engine block.

You'll want to be very careful tightening up all the little bolts when you reinstall the plate- don't over tighten them. Just pinky tight. Otherwise you can bend the plate at the hole and deform the flat sealing surface.

Thank you for the response and info. Is this the kind of chore that should be done....or is it one of those kind of like "let sleeping dogs lie"... unless there is a real problem? It looks to me like there is an annoying amount of oil leaking, but not critical amount. It's enough to make the engine smell like it's much hotter than it really is, if you know what I mean.

 

[SteveH]

A few years after I did mine, the bolts (perfectly tightened to spec) came loose and were finger tight, and it leaked again. I carefully tightened the bolts (a bit of spec) and it stopped leaking. When I first did the job, I used an OEM gasket with FIP on both sides.

So, it's worth checking the bolts down the road a bit.

And I found the article from TT:

 

[OSS]

Weeping oil actually is good for the engine parts. It keeps everything from rusting. It's not harmful at all except to your driveway or garage floor and of course it's not particularly pretty.
But if you don't mind the drips, just let it leak. You're not doing the engine any favors by stopping all the leaks

 

[cps432]

Weeping oil actually is good for the engine parts. It keeps everything from rusting. It's not harmful at all except to your driveway or garage floor and of course it's not particularly pretty.
But if you don't mind the drips, just let it leak. You're not doing the engine any favors by stopping all the leaks

Cat litter is real cheap

 

[LCnAZ]

A few years after I did mine, the bolts (perfectly tightened to spec) came loose and were finger tight, and it leaked again. I carefully tightened the bolts (a bit of spec) and it stopped leaking. When I first did the job, I used an OEM gasket with FIP on both sides.

So, it's worth checking the bolts down the road a bit.

And I found the article from TT:

Yikes. Sounds like a handful whoever does it! I had to dig into the FSM, but I found it and this might be useful to others. The "side plate" is officially the "Push Rod Cover." It and the gasket are shown on EM-36 of the FSM. The part number for the gasket is 11253-61010. It's about $13. The Torque spec for the ten bolts and two nuts is at the top of EM-46.

11253-61010 Genuine Toyota Gasket, Valve Push Rod Cover

ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 11253-61010 (1125361010) Gasket, Valve Push Rod Cover for $15.17. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

The first thing I'm going to do is carefully check the torque on the bolt and nuts. I might get lucky.

If I have to do this, I may do it as a hybrid effort. Have my shop get it out, then let me take it home to clean up, then they can re-install.

 

[Spook50]

Weeping oil actually is good for the engine parts. It keeps everything from rusting. It's not harmful at all except to your driveway or garage floor and of course it's not particularly pretty.
But if you don't mind the drips, just let it leak. You're not doing the engine any favors by stopping all the leaks

Well........you're not wrong...

 

[Spook50]

A few years after I did mine, the bolts (perfectly tightened to spec) came loose and were finger tight, and it leaked again. I carefully tightened the bolts (a bit of spec) and it stopped leaking. When I first did the job, I used an OEM gasket with FIP on both sides.

So, it's worth checking the bolts down the road a bit.

And I found the article from TT:

From the pics it looks like the gasket is cork? If that's the case, you won't need FIPG (unless the FSM specifically calls for it). Best thing for a cork gasket is a near-perfect clean sealing surface and proper bolt torque. The gasket expands as hot fluid soaks into it and improves its sealing properties as it "breaks in". Typically you want FIPG when there's a seam or manufactured break in the gasket or its sealing surface (case in point: the oil pan). Paper is always dry (again on as perfect a sealing surface as you can achieve). By contrast though, rubber gaskets and O-rings should always be lubricated before installation with whichever fluid they're sealing against. Makes future removal easier, seals better, and prolongs the life of the gasket.

One of the few things I didn't brain dump when I got out of aircraft maintenance.

 

[g-man]

I did mine an a few years later it's leaking again. If you take it off, make sure to clean out the egr pipe/elbow mounted on the cover. Mine was full of sludge. Read up on removing and installing the dizzy. You don't want to be a tooth off when you put it back. Plan on setting the timing again once everything is back in place.

 

[LCnAZ]

Weeping oil actually is good for the engine parts. It keeps everything from rusting. It's not harmful at all except to your driveway or garage floor and of course it's not particularly pretty.
But if you don't mind the drips, just let it leak. You're not doing the engine any favors by stopping all the leaks

I've certainly come to embrace this concept. The burning oil smell when the block gets hot is what drives me nuts.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Hi guys. I had never heard of the "side plate" on the passenger side of the engine until seeing it in one of the restoration threads. I think I have leaking at the side plate, as the it and the engine are oil wet from there down. Thought at first if might be valve cover gasket, but wetness is not above the side plate.

I searched around, but not finding any specific info on the side plate or replacing the gasket. If you guys know of a place, could you provide a link...or your wisdom on this?

Thanks.

EDIT: FYI...I've since learned that the "side plate" is the "Push Rod Cover." Post #8 has FSM and part number info.

I personally USE the heck out of and apply a generiours portion of BLACK FIPG to any engine cork gasket minus a old F valve cover gasket

00295-00103

93381-16012









here is a neat little trick count up all your tiny 10mm Hex screws , ORDER ALL of these when replacing side cover gasket , old rusty ones leak


not to mention there CHROME-LIKE Plated JAPAN hardware too

 

[LCnAZ]

I personally USE the heck out of and apply a generiours portion of BLACK FIPG to any engine cork gasket minus a old F valve cover gasket

00295-00103

93381-16012









here is a neat little trick count up all your tiny 10mm Hex screws , ORDER ALL of these when replacing side cover gasket , old rusty ones leak


not to mention there CHROME-LIKE Plated JAPAN hardware too


View attachment 2775424View attachment 2775425View attachment 2775426

Great suggestion!

Upon closer inspection, I've decided that this may not need to be done. I took the diluted Dawn and a pressure washer to it after warming up to remove as much oil moisture as I can so that I can monitor leakage. I think that it is only very mild weeping over 31 years.

Now valve cover gasket (especially on the driver side) may be another issue. I also cleaned up around there and will monitor.

I took it on a drive long enough to get it fully up to operating temp. Once back in the garage there was no more burning oil smell...so perhaps that smell will be what I "watch for" to alert me to visually check.

 

[Godwin]

I did mine an a few years later it's leaking again. If you take it off, make sure to clean out the egr pipe/elbow mounted on the cover. Mine was full of sludge. Read up on removing and installing the dizzy. You don't want to be a tooth off when you put it back. Plan on setting the timing again once everything is back in place.

3FE does not have the PVC connection on the side cover, it's integrated into the valve cover.

 

[Godwin]

Great suggestion!

Upon closer inspection, I've decided that this may not need to be done. I took the diluted Dawn and a pressure washer to it after warming up to remove as much oil moisture as I can so that I can monitor leakage. I think that it is only very mild weeping over 31 years.

Now valve cover gasket (especially on the driver side) may be another issue. I also cleaned up around there and will monitor.

I took it on a drive long enough to get it fully up to operating temp. Once back in the garage there was no more burning oil smell...so perhaps that smell will be what I "watch for" to alert me to visually check.

Since this leak is on the passenger side I would confirm and then confirm a second time that the leak is not from the oil galley plug. If you've previously properly sealed off the oil galley plug then it's gotta be a gasket.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Since this leak is on the passenger side I would confirm and then confirm a second time that the leak is not from the oil galley plug. If you've previously properly sealed off the oil galley plug then it's gotta be a gasket.

X2 check oil galley or gallery how ever it is worded check it asp!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Great suggestion!

Upon closer inspection, I've decided that this may not need to be done. I took the diluted Dawn and a pressure washer to it after warming up to remove as much oil moisture as I can so that I can monitor leakage. I think that it is only very mild weeping over 31 years.

Now valve cover gasket (especially on the driver side) may be another issue. I also cleaned up around there and will monitor.

I took it on a drive long enough to get it fully up to operating temp. Once back in the garage there was no more burning oil smell...so perhaps that smell will be what I "watch for" to alert me to visually check.

Since this leak is on the passenger side I would confirm and then confirm a second time that the leak is not from the oil galley plug. If you've previously properly sealed off the oil galley plug then it's gotta be a gasket.

Possible OIL galley PLUG reference like Mr Goodwin suggests is a good place to monitor

 

[LCnAZ]

Since this leak is on the passenger side I would confirm and then confirm a second time that the leak is not from the oil galley plug. If you've previously properly sealed off the oil galley plug then it's gotta be a gasket.

X2 check oil galley or gallery how ever it is worded check it asp!

Possible OIL galley PLUG reference like Mr Goodwin suggests is a good place to monitor

Thanks, guys. But you have me stumped. I'm not familiar with the oil galley plug. Can you get my eyes on the target, please?

Roll Tide.

 

[Godwin]

Thanks, guys. But you have me stumped. I'm not familiar with the oil galley plug. Can you get my eyes on the target, please?

Roll Tide.

It can be a ticking time bomb. Loose the plug, loose oil, loose the engine.

Oil Galley Plug Opinions Needed - 2 FJ62s - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-galley-plug-opinions-needed-2-fj62s.1192772/ Post #3 by @tmxmotorsports has a clear photo of its location on the head. Lot's of threads on this.