Fixing over compression on a 2FE (Camshaft analysis?) (1 Viewer)

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Spook50 said:
So here's a question as far as positioning; how have you been able to see the window and hold the timing light at the same time ...
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It's done in steps, not all at once.
Shoot the timing light at the flywheel to see where you are then turn it off & set it aside.
Then tweak the distributor a little bit & tighten it, then grab the gun and shoot it again to see where you are.
Do one, then the other if doing them all together requires too many arms.
 
Spook50 said:
So here's a question as far as positioning; how have you been able to see the window and hold the timing light at the same time while moving the distributor?! I'm fairly tall and pretty broad built, so worming my way in there isn't an easy task (really the biggest reason I stopped trying to use a timing light so long ago).
Click to expand...
I’m 6’3” and I stand in front of the passangers headlight, careful of the fan, and I look straight on through the window with the light as close to the sight window as I can get it. I’ve got to stick the tool through the spark plug wires and find the right angle so that it makes the bb and line glow. But that’s how I do it. I’m able to hold it with my left hand while I adjust the dizzy with my left. Once I like where it is I’ll set the timing light aside and tighten the dizzy down. I’ll then double check to verify that torquing the locking bolt down didn’t turn the dizzy. I’ve never had problems setting the timing in this truck like that. I will admit that it’s a little harder now that I have a lift with 33s. I have been known to stand on my ammo can tool boxes to reach deeper if I need to.
 
OSS said:
It's done in steps, not all at once.
Shoot the timing light at the flywheel to see where you are then turn it off & set it aside.
Then tweak the distributor a little bit & tighten it, then grab the gun and shoot it again to see where you are.
Do one, then the other if doing them all together requires too many arms.
Click to expand...
I was figuring I'd end up doing it in steps. Good to know that seems to be the best option. My rig is sitting the same as @cps432 has his, so at 6' myself, it might be quite a bit harder for me to do it in one shot.

Well if I can get it done tomorrow I'll post after my road trip what differences I notice compared to how I've been doing it; good, bad, same-ish....
 
Spook50 said:
I was figuring I'd end up doing it in steps. Good to know that seems to be the best option. My rig is sitting the same as @cps432 has his, so at 6' myself, it might be quite a bit harder for me to do it in one shot.

Well if I can get it done tomorrow I'll post after my road trip what differences I notice compared to how I've been doing it; good, bad, same-ish....
Click to expand...
You could try sitting side saddle on the fender and leaning into the engine bay. I’ve done it like that before I figured out I could do it standing in front of the truck. The thing that can be frustrating is not finding the bb. If your light is set to 7* but your truck is running at say 9* you won’t see the bb and you’ll get frustrated. If that’s the case, where you can see the window clearly but you can’t see the bb, then leave the dizzy alone and mess with the settings on the light until the bb reveals itself. Then you’ll know what advancement or retardation you’re running. Then you can set your light to the correct number and adjust the dizzy from there. Smaaaaaall movements!!

And I’m assuming you know this but I’ll just say it for posterity, the engine is running while you make these adjustments. No sense in starting and stopping the engine.
 
i just lean in with one of my nice bright sears lights, and turn the dist with the light jammed in there. its more an angle issue than a light issue. before i start i set the retaining bolt snug enough so i have a tad bit of resistance, but it moves with a tapping of the wrench.
 
I recently found a 12mm flex head shorty gear wench which makes the pain in the ass bolt a breeze.
 
Hitchmate sells these on Amozon for like 50 bucks and is height and tire girth adjustable. It folds up and has a carry bag.
17DB484A-190A-4596-B2DD-3507D6F57294.jpeg
 
Just a quick observation; with the vacuum method I had been doing, my initial timing (when TE1 and E1 are shorted) was at 13°. I set it back to 7° just now so I'm curious to see where it lands me as far as performance and economy. Got a 400 mile round trip this weekend with some good climbs so it'll be a good gauge of difference if there's any. I wish there was a way to "live monitor" my timing as I drive so I could actively monitor the curve.

Also grabbed the Innova 3568 light. MUCH better and easier than my older-than-me, big and dim, timing light. Having always used old stuff, I hadn't used a light with adjustable advance, and I gotta admit I love that feature.
 
When I was dialing in my timing, I'd bring my timing light with me and pull over at a good spot to tweak it occasionally. Remember that if you can hear -any- little bit of pinging, the timing is too far advanced. An engine can still detonate due to slightly over advanced timing but you can't hear it... but its still detrimental. So the rule is ... if you can hear even the slightest hint of pinging at any rpm or load, the timing is still too advanced for the fuel being burned.
Another seat of the pants method of dialing in optimum timing is set it where the engine outputs the most torque at its optimum RPM range.
 
Spook50 said:
Just a quick observation; with the vacuum method I had been doing, my initial timing (when TE1 and E1 are shorted) was at 13°. I set it back to 7° just now so I'm curious to see where it lands me as far as performance and economy. Got a 400 mile round trip this weekend with some good climbs so it'll be a good gauge of difference if there's any. I wish there was a way to "live monitor" my timing as I drive so I could actively monitor the curve.

Also grabbed the Innova 3568 light. MUCH better and easier than my older-than-me, big and dim, timing light. Having always used old stuff, I hadn't used a light with adjustable advance, and I gotta admit I love that feature.
Click to expand...
You could try to live monitor the timing advance with with an ammeter, While the engine is running you could "measure" the relation in amps vs advance with your timing light as a benchmark, then have a gauge or a recording device to store your data. I dont know anything on how inductors work though so use caution haha. It would be cool to see how the engine advances timing with RPM/temp change
 
ChaserFJ60 said:
You could try to live monitor the timing advance with with an ammeter, While the engine is running you could "measure" the relation in amps vs advance with your timing light as a benchmark, then have a gauge or a recording device to store your data. I dont know anything on how inductors work though so use caution haha. It would be cool to see how the engine advances timing with RPM/temp change
Click to expand...
I think it would be fairly easy to rig up a monitoring system with the install of a crank position sensor and an inductor on the #1 plug wire. Honestly I'm very curious if for no other reason than to see what changes and under what conditions.

@OSS It certainly seemed to have much more power when my distributor was set higher since I was holding speed much longer on long grades before having to downshift. As far as seat of the pants it felt more powerful but that's so subjective I take "feels like more power" with a big grain of salt.
As far as pinging, with burning 91 octane I had no indication with the more advanced vacuum, but if @Lead Head is correct with the "real world" timing being controlled by the ECU and taking the 7° as just a "baseline" setting, advance while driving possibly wasn't any higher than normal anyway except for at idle with TE1 and E1 shorted. His explanation led me to be willing to try via the prescribed method in the FSM and see if my method really differed in results overall.
 
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cps432 said:
I’m 6’3” and I stand in front of the passangers headlight, careful of the fan, and I look straight on through the window with the light as close to the sight window as I can get it. I’ve got to stick the tool through the spark plug wires and find the right angle so that it makes the bb and line glow. But that’s how I do it. I’m able to hold it with my left hand while I adjust the dizzy with my left. Once I like where it is I’ll set the timing light aside and tighten the dizzy down. I’ll then double check to verify that torquing the locking bolt down didn’t turn the dizzy. I’ve never had problems setting the timing in this truck like that. I will admit that it’s a little harder now that I have a lift with 33s. I have been known to stand on my ammo can tool boxes to reach deeper if I need to.
Click to expand...
I'm 6'-4" and that's what I do.
 
Spook50 said:
I think it would be fairly easy to rig up a monitoring system with the install of a crank position sensor and an inductor on the #1 plug wire. Honestly I'm very curious if for no other reason than to see what changes and under what conditions.

@OSS It certainly seemed to have much more power when my distributor was set higher since I was holding speed much longer on long grades before having to downshift. As far as seat of the pants it felt more powerful but that's so subjective I take "feels like more power" with a big grain of salt.
As far as pinging, with burning 91 octane I had no indication with the more advanced vacuum, but if @Lead Head is correct with the "real world" timing being controlled by the ECU and taking the 7° as just a "baseline" setting, advance while driving possibly wasn't any higher than normal anyway except for at idle with TE1 and E1 shorted. His explanation led me to be willing to try via the prescribed method in the FSM and see if my method really differed in results overall.
Click to expand...
Must be nice. I have to lean over the fender supported by my ribs. I had a couple ribs pop out of place once trying to set the timing. I still haven't put the cover back over the sight hole.
 
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