200 Series LED lighting upgrades (8 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

So 90% of the people who ordered had no issues with the installation of the cargo light, I think I should have mentioned that you have to compress that spring adapter all the way and then put the led panel afixed in a clear area (behind as stated above) is best. I installed two of these this week and had no problems, you guys think you can attempt it again?

I can post some pics tmrw if needed?
I can look at it again sometime. I will say i didn't use the tape, since i couldn't get it working consistently. Going from memory it seems like the LED panel was in the way, so that it put pressure on the switch contact in a way that it wouldn't make contact to allow the light to turn on. It worked fine when the led panel wasn't in the housing. It's been a few weeks since i did it, so i could be misremembering.
 
Looking forward to the newer 200 series interior leds!
 
I just put the LEDs all the way up next to the plastic cover. No tape needed. It doesn't center correctly due to a tab on the cover (might drive OCD guys crazy) but because it is next to cover is very bright.
Was hard to get a clear pic. Too bright....had to turn everything on the phone way down

20210809_212429.jpg

Daytime shot:
20210810_175835.jpg
 
Last edited:
I’m not sure if any of us having issues were confused about how a spring works.
When I install the adapter into the bulb tabs, the adapter is slightly too large and exerts pressure on the metal tab that moves and is attached to the plastic switch and the switch wiper. This pushes the wiper too far away from the contact patch to activate the light.

929FF85D-6DA4-4933-9148-DE80DA4B3266.jpeg


Here you can see that the adapter is larger than old bulb and forces itself at an angle. At this angle it doesn't even work consistently. It has to actually slide down a little more towards the clear lens before it will turn on every time.

264133C5-6B80-4090-B448-A1B9964E6256.jpeg

Here is the LED in place with just the regular bulb. You can see the metal tab is touching the led pad. This is the what keeps the light from working at all. Once you put the adapter in, the metal tab is forced into the back of the led.


387B6BE6-CAF1-4641-B918-1917A6AB1D47.jpeg



I see the last user put his LED against the lens like that and his parts, from the front look exactly like mine. Are other people putting the LED panel into the gray shield that goes behind the light?


Also, for sure my tabs are mangled a bit at this point because of all the attempts i made to get the wiper to work properly while the LED adapter was installed. I didn't take a pre-installation picture, so I'm not sure if I've bent it back perfectly to stock. It does work fine with the stock light bulb.
 
Last edited:
I’m not sure if any of us having issues were confused about how a spring works.
When I install the adapter into the bulb tabs, the adapter is slightly too large and exerts pressure on the metal tab that moves and is attached to the plastic switch and the switch wiper. This pushes the wiper too far away from the contact patch to activate the light.

View attachment 2761937

Here you can see that the adapter is larger than old bulb and forces itself at an angle. At this angle it doesn't even work consistently. It has to actually slide down a little more towards the clear lens before it will turn on every time.

View attachment 2761948
Here is the LED in place with just the regular bulb. You can see the metal tab is touching the led pad. This is the what keeps the light from working at all. Once you put the adapter in, the metal tab is forced into the back of the led.


View attachment 2761952


I see the last user put his LED against the lens like that and his parts, from the front look exactly like mine. Are other people putting the LED panel into the gray shield that goes behind the light?


Also, for sure my tabs are mangled a bit at this point because of all the attempts i made to get the wiper to work properly while the LED adapter was installed. I didn't take a pre-installation picture, so I'm not sure if I've bent it back perfectly to stock. It does work fine with the stock light bulb.
The spring does push the wiper. It is just a little too big. What I did was bend it back the opposite way, creating a little more space by bending the tabs apart (not too much). I bent it back farther than even and that seemed to lodge it in a happy place that works. Hope that helps.
 
In mine the spring adapter works fine but the metal angle touches the LED panel like in the picture above and it gets knocked out of place. I might remove part of the tape to see if it leaves enough clearance.
 
I'll give it one more shot. I bent the tabs the first time to try and get it work with the adapter, but didn't come up with a profile that worked consistently. I had to bend it back to get the original light bulb to work again. Ultimately, I didn't want to break the light and also don't really care much as I have never turned that light on before, so not too sure I really care whether it works or not.

I considered soldering the leads form the adapter to the tabs and not installing the adapter, but you do have to have some pressure on the tabs, or the switch won't work. Could possibly leave the old light bulb in and solder the LED. Not sure if that would cause too much amps to be pulled on the circuit, but probably not. That circuit was definitely connected to the puddle lights (accidentally blew the fuse in trying to fit the LED in rear the first time), so replacing all the other incandescent bulbs with the LEDs has probably already reduced the current draw on that circuit.
 
Last edited:
I am still very interested in this cargo dome light for my 2016 LC.....any traction on this option?

Still working on this man, I got a nice dome light assembly from a 2021 so i’m seeing what I have to do to direct solder a replacement and we can make this kind of an exchange program
 
@lx200inAR @NYC570 hey guys,

So most people have had no issues with the bending of the metal contacts to make the panel work. When the kits were tested and I rolled them out a lot of the people who got them had no issues however, they may have gotten lucky with the way they bent the tabs for that cargo area.

I cannot say you’re doing anything wrong but I would recommend bending the side away from the metal contact for the switch then inserting first (while adapter is compressed) from the side you just bent so that that contact remains in place. Do not over-exert the “bending” as you might snap something off.

I installed three of these last week with no issues (I was testing different colors on the same truck, not 3 different trucks)

Now…that all being said, I can offer 3 options if you cannot make the cargo light fit because I really don’t want to ruin my reputation here as a vendor

1. I refund you partially for the part that you cannot make fit. So you’d recieve a refund of the rear cargo light

2. You send me back the rear cargo light, and I send you back a replacement smaller non-adapter panel

3. You order a pair of reverse lights ($35 shipped) and I send the replacement part PLUS a set of free license plate lights to make up for this mishap hopefully. The license plate lights are a $10 value

CC905974-8DA6-4D81-AD77-13D01723342B.jpeg
 
I'll give it one more shot. I bent the tabs the first time to try and get it work with the adapter, but didn't come up with a profile that worked consistently. I had to bend it back to get the original light bulb to work again. Ultimately, I didn't want to break the light and also don't really care much as I have never turned that light on before, so not too sure I really care whether it works or not.

I considered soldering the leads form the adapter to the tabs and not installing the adapter, but you do have to have some pressure on the tabs, or the switch won't work. Could possibly leave the old light bulb in and solder the LED. Not sure if that would cause too much amps to be pulled on the circuit, but probably not. That circuit was definitely connected to the puddle lights (accidentally blew the fuse in trying to fit the LED in rear the first time), so replacing all the other incandescent bulbs with the LEDs has probably already reduced the current draw on that circuit.
Can you point me to the fuse that was blown? Rear cargo light doesn't work (with OEM bulb or the LED from @FullyLitLED) in my 13 LX but all other lights do.
 
Can you point me to the fuse that was blown? Rear cargo light doesn't work (with OEM bulb or the LED from @FullyLitLED) in my 13 LX but all other lights do.

I believe it was a 5amp fuse in the engine compartment main fuse panel. If you door puddle lights are working, then it's not the fuse. ( I didn't triple check this or anything, just noticed my puddle lights weren't working when I was swapping them out after messing with the cargo light, so I found that fuse and replaced it and then my puddle lights were working).

Lexus-LX570-J200-2008-2015_en1_08.jpg



54DOME15 AIlluminated entry system
 
  • Like
Reactions: LCT
@lx200inAR @NYC570 hey guys,

So most people have had no issues with the bending of the metal contacts to make the panel work. When the kits were tested and I rolled them out a lot of the people who got them had no issues however, they may have gotten lucky with the way they bent the tabs for that cargo area.

I cannot say you’re doing anything wrong but I would recommend bending the side away from the metal contact for the switch then inserting first (while adapter is compressed) from the side you just bent so that that contact remains in place. Do not over-exert the “bending” as you might snap something off.

I installed three of these last week with no issues (I was testing different colors on the same truck, not 3 different trucks)

Now…that all being said, I can offer 3 options if you cannot make the cargo light fit because I really don’t want to ruin my reputation here as a vendor

1. I refund you partially for the part that you cannot make fit. So you’d recieve a refund of the rear cargo light

2. You send me back the rear cargo light, and I send you back a replacement smaller non-adapter panel

3. You order a pair of reverse lights ($35 shipped) and I send the replacement part PLUS a set of free license plate lights to make up for this mishap hopefully. The license plate lights are a $10 value

View attachment 2762648

I'll try bending the tab that direction. Maybe with some needle nose pliers to reduce force applied to the switch parts.

Can't speak for other customers, but I'm not concerned with any further concessions. I didn't even mention the light not fitting when posting my initial thoughts because it really didn't bother me, and I assumed if I tried harder I could get it to work. The after sales support here is more than enough to cover any hardships. Especially for an inexpensive product that works fine.
 
I'll try bending the tab that direction. Maybe with some needle nose pliers to reduce force applied to the switch parts.

Can't speak for other customers, but I'm not concerned with any further concessions. I didn't even mention the light not fitting when posting my initial thoughts because it really didn't bother me, and I assumed if I tried harder I could get it to work. The after sales support here is more than enough to cover any hardships. Especially for an inexpensive product that works fine.

As always, please feel free to reach out for any concerns regarding the product :)

-L
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom