RUSH55
SILVER Star
- “Beep-beep, boop, beep-boop-boopMmmmust be factoryyyyy. Beep-boop-beep.”
"Wife said cute" (danger Will Robinson) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Gordobe
- Start date
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- “Beep-beep, boop, beep-boop-boopMmmmust be factoryyyyy. Beep-boop-beep.”
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
That reminds me of the 75 series pickup I bought in Saudi. It was owned by the National Gas and Industrial company so it has a "beep, beep, beep..." backup alarm that starts as soon as you put it into reverse. Plan on keeping it connected for those trips to Walmart.
Sounds like when Apple finally puts a feature in the iPhone that android had been doing for 5 years. The sheeple eat it up.
OK, read a the thread and wow, pretty deep stuff. I consider myself somewhat educated its apparently just the wrong stuff. I cannot recall any thermodynamics in my cellular and molecular biology classes or in medical school.
SOOO... if I were to upgrade to newer vintage (not plugging any particular brand) unit for the 69 anyone have any leads on the most appropriate AC unit to buy? We will be residing in Oklahoma next year and AC gonna be mandatory. My hopes of maintaining the current old system (Climatic-Air) are probably far fetched and I fear I would just be throwing funds in something over and over again.
SOOO... if I were to upgrade to newer vintage (not plugging any particular brand) unit for the 69 anyone have any leads on the most appropriate AC unit to buy? We will be residing in Oklahoma next year and AC gonna be mandatory. My hopes of maintaining the current old system (Climatic-Air) are probably far fetched and I fear I would just be throwing funds in something over and over again.
Several of us have the Restomod/ Classic auto Air system in our Pig’s.
They are the same company with different prices and options.
Classic Auto Air - Air Conditioning & Heating for 70’s & Older Cars & Trucks
Classic Auto Air is your source for factory air conditioning parts & AC systems for 70’s & older Ford, GM, Mopar, Porsche, Custom Street Rods & more.
www.classicautoair.com
Restomod Air - Ultimate Style. Killer Performance.
Custom Aftermarket A/C Kits, Vents, and Controllers for your Vintage Classic Car.
restomodair.com
Gracias, I’ll track down some pics tomorrow while at work!
Let me know if I can help.
- Thread starter
- #69
So when I first got lipstick I had to get a leak repaired to the gas tank. At the time I wasn’t up to the task of pulling the tank myself so I had a local shop ( Ojai) take care of it.
It seemed to do the trick for a while but the more I drove it the smell got worse and it showed signs of seepage coming from the top of the tank again.
Pulled the tank today to explore. The main cause this time was that the spring clamp on a vent hose had not been reinstalled properly... Left dangling on the hose 2 inches back. I realize it in a very difficult place,, but difficult don’t work.
The tank repair putty they used looked like it was holding sort of but there was signs of oooozzzzing. I don’t do oooozzzzing.
Cleaned the tank
up a bit for the repair man.
It seemed to do the trick for a while but the more I drove it the smell got worse and it showed signs of seepage coming from the top of the tank again.
Pulled the tank today to explore. The main cause this time was that the spring clamp on a vent hose had not been reinstalled properly... Left dangling on the hose 2 inches back. I realize it in a very difficult place,, but difficult don’t work.
The tank repair putty they used looked like it was holding sort of but there was signs of oooozzzzing. I don’t do oooozzzzing.
Cleaned the tank
Did they mention the word "Wrigley's" when talking about that repair?
- Thread starter
- #71
Early this week a friend who is a seasoned welder, soldered the small split in my tank. He said the gas tank bubble gum looked like it was working. So it looks like the main leak was from when the PO or PPO or maybe a PPPO didn’t take the energy to install the spring hose clamp on the front vent hose. As I found out it is very difficult to get to without freeing it from inside the cargo side chamber.
So I cleaned the out side of the tank hit it with a scouring pad, coated it with Black Star rust neutralizer and rattle canned some gloss black. So I scoped the inside and found it to be perfect except for a couple spots of no consequence. Took a photo of the split from the inside put couldn’t load it onto the computer for some reason.
Never pulled or reinstalled at pig tank before so it was a real adventure solo in the driveway. Hoses all hooked and no leaks with 7 gal in the tank. Unfortunately there still seems to be an odor when driving. Non from the engine area non from around the tank. New sending unit gasket no smell there. It seems to come from the cargo drivers side where the filler hoses are. No bad hoses but they are the original ones.
Do old hose seep odor from years of saturation? Would new hoses cure the issue?
Looks like more exploring.
8
So I cleaned the out side of the tank hit it with a scouring pad, coated it with Black Star rust neutralizer and rattle canned some gloss black. So I scoped the inside and found it to be perfect except for a couple spots of no consequence. Took a photo of the split from the inside put couldn’t load it onto the computer for some reason.
Never pulled or reinstalled at pig tank before so it was a real adventure solo in the driveway. Hoses all hooked and no leaks with 7 gal in the tank. Unfortunately there still seems to be an odor when driving. Non from the engine area non from around the tank. New sending unit gasket no smell there. It seems to come from the cargo drivers side where the filler hoses are. No bad hoses but they are the original ones.
Do old hose seep odor from years of saturation? Would new hoses cure the issue?
Looks like more exploring.
This is on the 71, correct? My 71 parts wagon had an emissions tank behind each cargo panel with a hose running up through the body, over the tailgate window and down to the driver's side emissions tank. In other words a lot of hoses and clamps.going on in there. I'd replace those and work my way to the motor, following the hose.
Why not pressure test your system ?
Pull the feed line off your pump and blow air back into the tank ( one pound or less will do) grab a spray bottle of soapy water if it's not apparent but I'm guessing you'll hear the leak you are smelling.
- Thread starter
- #76
As I read about and see all the ambitious workmanship that goes into the personal undertakings of each knights quest to keep these awesome Japanese sculptures alive. I am humbled by their efforts.
Although I have done a fair amount of work on my sty it is only mere maintenance In contrast to what is being undertaken on this site.
Best I can contribute for the moment is a few photos of the inside of my fuel tank via borescope. Don’t want to equate this process with what we elders have had to endure.
One pick shows the dented area that had a leak that a friend soldered. The rest was in great condition save for a few spots showing some slight surface decay. Non of it looked like failure was on the agenda in the near millennium.
Hope you enjoyed this docudrama as it was produced on behalf oh all of those with bad gas.
Although I have done a fair amount of work on my sty it is only mere maintenance In contrast to what is being undertaken on this site.
Best I can contribute for the moment is a few photos of the inside of my fuel tank via borescope. Don’t want to equate this process with what we elders have had to endure.
One pick shows the dented area that had a leak that a friend soldered. The rest was in great condition save for a few spots showing some slight surface decay. Non of it looked like failure was on the agenda in the near millennium.
Hope you enjoyed this docudrama as it was produced on behalf oh all of those with bad gas.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Those scopes are cool!
Nice to see your baffle is still in place. The one in my original tank broke loose, and just lays in the bottom.
Your tank also looks pretty clean inside.
Nice to see your baffle is still in place. The one in my original tank broke loose, and just lays in the bottom.
Your tank also looks pretty clean inside.
- Thread starter
- #78
So thanks to pigeaten, I was able to replace a broken fuel door pull.
sunday I was looking through my parts inventory to see if I had the felt guides for in the tailgate for the rear window and yahoo
today after work I opened up Lipsticks tailgate and did some scraping and cleaning.
rattle canned Black Star rust neutralize in all the nooks and crannies. Black Star leaves a polymer coating as a primer. Will rattle can some sort of white over that tomorrow
found a better piece of glass In inventory so will switch that out also.
time for the dogs evening drive in Silverspoon
sunday I was looking through my parts inventory to see if I had the felt guides for in the tailgate for the rear window and yahoo
today after work I opened up Lipsticks tailgate and did some scraping and cleaning.
rattle canned Black Star rust neutralize in all the nooks and crannies. Black Star leaves a polymer coating as a primer. Will rattle can some sort of white over that tomorrow
found a better piece of glass In inventory so will switch that out also.
time for the dogs evening drive in Silverspoon
Not trying to ad to your "to do" list, but might be a good time to service the window gearbox, electrical connections, etc. if not done in a while.
- Thread starter
- #80
It all is well greased and operating smoothly, I recently cleaned the key switch contacts. I haven’t checked ”the” gear and probably should.
