Storing 100 for 4-6 Weeks at a Time - Battery Question - No Electricity Available for Trickle (2 Viewers)

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Keeping the 100 out in Denver from our house in Missouri for vacations this winter and a "quick" drive to Moab from Denver in the spring/summer. Going to fly out each time, hop in it, and go. The facility where I'm keeping it is indoors, close to Denver International Airport, but has no power available to plug in a trickle charger. It's a new battery and as long I disconnect then negative cable after a weekend of driving it over 100-200 miles so it is completely charged up, will it make it 4-6 weeks until I return? Curious what you think. I'm going to leave a jump pack out there as well but same problem perhaps--not sure it will stay charged enough if I need to use it. Worse comes to worse, I flag someone down for a jump.

Thanks!

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If you disconnect the battery, I think you'll be in good shape. I have a battery that I use for running a trolling motor in a canoe. It doesn't get a lot of use, and the last time I charged it was about 3 months ago. I just checked it a couple of days ago, and it was still doing good.

I also have an old Mercedes that I don't drive too often. If I go 2 to 2.5 weeks without driving it, I notice the battery isn't as strong, but it will still turn over. Keep in mind, that's with the battery connected while it sits. And that doesn't have a new battery like your 100.
 
Okay, good to hear. Yah, I'll definitely be disconnecting it. I will certainly report back. These new fancy storage unit facilities got smart long ago--they don't put light bulbs in the units with a switch like the old days. All you had to do was plug in an outlet adapter into the socket and you're good to go with powering a trickle charger.
 
It's a new battery and as long I disconnect then negative cable after a weekend of driving it over 100-200 miles so it is completely charged up, will it make it 4-6 weeks until I return?
Won’t be a problem, but might be a good idea to not latch the hood all the way closed so that you can access the battery when you return. I say this because my battery died once and none of the doors would unlock no matter how many times I turned the key, so I couldn’t open the hood to charge the battery…
 
Oh man, I’m glad you mentioned this. Something to think about.
 
Won’t be a problem, but might be a good idea to not latch the hood all the way closed so that you can access the battery when you return. I say this because my battery died once and none of the doors would unlock no matter how many times I turned the key, so I couldn’t open the hood to charge the battery…
The front door locks are mechanical. The rear trunk however.
 
That's what I thought too. I wonder why yours would not unock manually with the key, @JunkCrzr89? I know the rear hatch does require electric power but the fronts are connected my cable. What am I missing here? Thanks!

The front door locks are mechanical. The rear trunk however.
 
I’ve disconnected the negative terminal on batteries for months without issues. You’ll be fine.
 
The front door locks are mechanical. The rear trunk however.
That's what I thought too. I wonder why yours would not unock manually with the key, @JunkCrzr89? I know the rear hatch does require electric power but the fronts are connected my cable. What am I missing here? Thanks!
To this day I have no idea why. They worked fine with the key once I had power back, but without power I could turn the key and nothing happened.
 
To this day I have no idea why. They worked fine with the key once I had power back, but without power I could turn the key and nothing happened.
My best guess is the rod(s) from the motor actuator to the door lock (keyed) is not connected probably. There is a electronic key position sensor too... that activates the locks, I presume.
 
My best guess is the rod(s) from the motor actuator to the door lock (keyed) is not connected probably. There is a electronic key position sensor too... that activates the locks, I presume.
Said incident happened a couple of years ago, but I replaced all of the motors inside the actuators a couple of days after it happened. The rods were all properly connected with the clips intact when I removed the actuators.
 
I’ve disconnected the negative terminal on batteries for months without issues. You’ll be fine.
x2. I do it all the time with a few vehicles. Make sure you back into the unit and agree with others that you should leave the hood down but not latched all the way. Also make sure you can easily get to the wrench to reconnect and your jumper cables.
 
I have 2 of these awesome jump packs stashed away in the cars for emergencies. Every few months, I check to make sure they have enough juice for when I need them. They also make for a great tool when hitting the junk yards ;)

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I’ve been doing this for 20 yrs, with my FJ40 first and now with my 60 & 74. I disconnect both
terminals. These are fully mechanical trucks, no computers. Minimum time is 5 weeks, I’ve left them
off for up to 4 months. Hook them up and no issues. One winter, 3 months outside in Alberta.
Day of hookup it was -22C and both batteries read 12.4V and the engine fired after 1 min of glow.

I phoned Anti-Gravity directly from Canada. He offered an immediate 10% Mud discount. That was
6-7 yrs ago when they were a start-up themselves. But boosted my 12HT over a dozen times over a few days
and still didn’t need a recharge.

 
I have 2 of these awesome jump packs stashed away in the cars for emergencies. Every few months, I check to make sure they have enough juice for when I need them. They also make for a great tool when hitting the junk yards ;)

913+OdWA3NL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Liking this idea a lot. I have a much larger one. Would airlines really let me fly with one of these in my carry-on? I am a TSA Pre-Check member so they typically don't even make you take crap out of your backpack. To the Googler!!!
 

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