Neighbor selling 80 (1 Viewer)

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What its worth and what someone will pay is exactly opposite of what it used to mean.

Saw this one in person and it was clean but thought 10k was crazy money and it brought 20 instead. 3 listed on mud currently 91/92 and all are over 12k and still rising. The current issue is the 80's are in such demand that a lot of folks don't realize how different a 91/92 is and they are jumping in at what they perceive as a good price. I personally have ZERO interest in a 91/92 automatic transmission. The only reason i would buy one is if I thought i could resale for a profit to some smuck or a very limited number of 91/92 cult members.

On the other hand @wngrog has given me an appreciation for what a manuel tranny de-smogged rig like that can do.
I am fully aware that this thing is a slug compared to the 1997 I had when I was younger and my family still owns. Not that the 1997 is much faster.

But, yes, the prices are skyrocketing and I think that if this one was in good shape it probably would fetch more.

We’re going to the smog shop later this afternoon.
 
So I’m kind of in a good news bad news type of situation.

The good news is that it passed smog and apparently fixing the air-conditioning is not going to be very expensive and I have all the fluids in my garage to change everything.

The bad news is that there’s a discrepancy on the title as the VIN does not match the year it was manufactured/model year which needs to be corrected. Whether that means I can actually assume ownership, or if I assume ownership I won’t be able to register it remains to be seen.

I’m trying to sort it out with the DMV and I’ve had three different people tell me three different things.

Long story short, the original selling dealer in Oregon made a mistake, that mistake was not caught when the California title was issued, and it has propagated for the last three decades.
 
Confirm the interior VIN to the frame VIN.

If you're trying to do this in CA, good luck.
 
I don't know how all these people have time to hate on the 3fe between head gasket changes.

I have never had to replace a head gasket yet and I have 2 FZ's........I did have to pay a mechanic to replace on though :). Maybe I'll do it myself on the next one. I have yet to have poked fun at a 3fe though.
 
I have owned several 1fz rigs, some with over 300k, and never had a head gasket go. I can't say much good about the 3fe I had. Lost a rod out the side of the block back in 98 with about 175k miles on it.

After walking miles, at night, in the rain, I am done with with the 3fe. Also lost a rod in my 1f and took out the block with it too.

Face it, the 1fz is an updated engine that's just better. The uz series is another upgrade. Toyota has a pretty good track record of coming out with better and better stuff. Why not get the newer engine?
 
I have owned several 1fz rigs, some with over 300k, and never had a head gasket go. I can't say much good about the 3fe I had. Lost a rod out the side of the block back in 98 with about 175k miles on it.

After walking miles, at night, in the rain, I am done with with the 3fe. Also lost a rod in my 1f and took out the block with it too.

Face it, the 1fz is an updated engine that's just better. The uz series is another upgrade. Toyota has a pretty good track record of coming out with better and better stuff. Why not get the newer engine?
Or why not get the uz100 or the 200 series? Newer is pretty much always better performance speaking. But, frankly, many (most?) 80 series owners at this point don’t own them for only the performance factor (same for 60 series and 40 series owners). Yep, we have to admit nostalgia and looks play a part (they sure as heck do on BAT). For me, the early 80 series is that perfect mix and the 3fe has NEVER let me down in the trucks I’ve had.
 
Or why not get the uz100 or the 200 series? Newer is pretty much always better performance speaking. But, frankly, many (most?) 80 series owners at this point don’t own them for only the performance factor (same for 60 series and 40 series owners). Yep, we have to admit nostalgia and looks play a part (they sure as heck do on BAT). For me, the early 80 series is that perfect mix and the 3fe has NEVER let me down in the trucks I’ve had.
But what if I do own newer cruisers too? Had a 100 and currently have a 120 and. 2nd gen sequoia with the 5.7 so yes, I agree. Newer is better and you should do it too. I keep the 80 since it's modded already and does what I need off road.
 
The problem I have with the "newer is better" argument is that I just don't really care for "newer" if the older stuff still works, and much of the "better" isn't really something I need. "Better" is also in the eye of the beholder and while the engines of the newer vehicles may make more power and be more efficient, that is only one aspect of "better". The other problem with "better" is that there is always something better out there but I can be content with a little less power, supposedly a rougher ride (although I have never owned a more comfortable vehicle), and older technology. I don't need a back up camera, lane assist, adaptive cruise control etc.... I am fine with a cd player and tape deck, regular cruise control and a very functional vehicle that I can perform maintenance and some repairs on. Granted I am looking at this from a perspective of buying an 80 series about 12 years ago and both my wife and I liking it enough to get a second one several years later when we needed a second vehicle. This was around or slightly after the nadir in 80 series prices as opposed to what they are selling for now so I was in the market for a vehicle, current 80 prices vs other vehicle prices and functionality would come into play but the 80 would still be a contender.

If the OP likes 80 series land cruisers and gets a decent price on his neighbors vehicle I don't see why he shouldn't buy it as long as he knows its limitations and enjoys it's strengths.
 
91 or 92, VIN search claims it’s a 1991, CA title says it’s a 1992.

Gold with peeling hood.

Interior okay. driver’s window motor dead, no AC, claimed 90,000 miles (highly suspect). Zero rust. Never used off road, but tcase works.

Fluids all black.

My neighbor says that he’s getting too old to mess with it and wants to sell it for $9000.

I think it would be a fun project, but seems too needy for that price.

Any ideas from the peanut gallery?
W
PS, brake fluid, tranny and tcase and oil all black.

Mileage seems legit.
With 90K and no service at all the only fluid that should be black is the brake fluid, 90K seems unlikely to me with black Tcase and Tranny fluid unless he really overheated it, (tranny)
 
But what if I do own newer cruisers too? Had a 100 and currently have a 120 and. 2nd gen sequoia with the 5.7 so yes, I agree. Newer is better and you should do it too. I keep the 80 since it's modded already and does what I need off road.
We are just keeping the 80s for different reasons. Love my 150 with the 4.6 for daily duty/light wheeling/parts availability, but there is something about that 80 that makes me love to drive/use/and want to keep it.
 
What does that run?

I have a buddy who did one for $4,800.00 last year but he did it 100% on his own and already had all the tools and a lot of other stuff.

I bet the average cheap diy LS swap would be around $7,000.00.

Go all out and pay somebody than you could easily hit $20,000.00
 
I have owned two fJ80's. I restored a 91 to original stock specs and love it's simplicity. It was a bit hard to find interior parts so I just bought another one to rob parts off of. Once I had swapped out what I needed the parts/donor truck ran so well and felt so good that I fixed it up for my kid's first car. Ended up selling it when I upgraded him to a newer car. I love my 91 FJ80. They are simple, slow, basic machines that putt along so nicely. They present much older than they rally are. I have had friends ask about "that old 70's truck I drive" They really are a thing of their own.

Buyers are starting to appreciate the first two years of 80 series trucks. They are among the rarest of the 80's with a two year only production run. Your neighbor is a little high on price but a rust-free, original FJ80 with good original paint/body, working AC, and only 90k miles is now a mid to higher teens priced truck. Yes, they were once $3,500 rigs but that is no longer the reality for nice original ones. ANY rust-free Land Cruiser is worth $10k now with or without an engine. My 91 is a one owner, California sourced rig that sat for years before someone pulled it out of a back yard and spent a tone of money getting it running. I paid a bit too much for it at the time, but was really after its originality and low miles. The only two issues with mine are the inop AC and original faded paint. Neither are an issue for me as is not a daily driver and the faded paint is what my wife zeroed in on the day I bought it. It is a patina restoration that should only look better with age. I don't drive it much but really enjoy it on sunny days with all the windows open.

With current values as they are, I am probably well in the profit range on mine. I never thought I would recoup my expenses on it. I have several cars and have found it best to buy what you love and the price really never matters in the long run.

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Face it, the 1fz is an updated engine that's just better.

OBDII is another factor for me. Not a deal killer on a really nice earlier model. For my purposes I like the later offerings.

But I support anyone's desire to own and enjoy an 80 Series Land Cruiser.

I've had mine for 21 years now, 326K miles on it now, still loving it. 👍
 
So finally made some progress yesterday, the DMV confirmed the VIN is authentic, correct, and that of a 1991 vehicle, although the employee seemed extremely disinterested in helping me.

The question now is whether they will issue a new correct a title or are they going to muck about and try to contact the Oregon DMV for reasons unknown.
 
I have a 1994 80 Series NO RUST… Arizona Vehicle. My Dad got it with 38,000 Miles on it years ago, and now it’s at 230,000. It over heats and has an issue with the brake system or something. The best way I can explain is ; When you push the brake pedal to the Floor…it doesn’t seem to wanna STOP very well. It almost feels like it has no pressure in the brake lines. Interior is perfect. No lift, and I honestly don’t plan on a lift because I don’t want to do any crazy rock crawling. I have about
5-7k$ budget. I don’t know where to start. It has sat for 8 years without being a daily driver. I’m assuming I need a Solid TuneUp and other things done before relying on it, but ai am No Mechanic. Any ideas or info would be appreciated.

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