Blinking voltage gauge needle when using blinkers (1 Viewer)

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I’ve been noticing that whenever I use my blinkers the voltage gauge needle also “blinks”, it will not do this with the flashers. So why would it do this? My truck is an ‘83, 5.3L vortec converted

Thanks,
ML
 
I’ve been noticing that whenever I use my blinkers the voltage gauge needle also “blinks”, it will not do this with the flashers. So why would it do this? My truck is an ‘83, 5.3L vortec converted

Thanks,
ML
I had the same issue. Resolved it by upgrading the battery cables. See.......
 
the wiring diagram for me gets a little confusing, but I think the hazards get power straight from the battery, where the power to the flashers go through the ignition switch (your turn signals only work with the key is turned on). the Volt meter also is powered through the ignition switch. I attribute the dip due to voltage drop through the ignition switch. I remember cleaning or replacing the switch at some point and getting less of a dip, but it never completely went away.
 
Thank you all! It is good to know that it’s a common issue and not that I have to worry about my alternator or something going bad
 
Its usually a bad earth , like 99% of the time. Its not normal in a landcruiser, its old age. The OEM earth cable on my 88 FJ73 was green from corrosion and the contact on the engine block was also corroded. The earth strap to the chassis also needs inspection/replacement.
 
I have run upgrades ground cables and even cleaned the common ground junction in back of the gauges and still I get the flicker when the blinker is on. Its not a issue, just the way the system works as far as I can tell. I do wonder if using LED bulbs in the blinkers would stop the flicker due to their super low current draw.
 
Its usually a bad earth , like 99% of the time. Its not normal in a landcruiser, its old age. The OEM earth cable on my 88 FJ73 was green from corrosion and the contact on the engine block was also corroded. The earth strap to the chassis also needs inspection/replacement.
All grounds were replaced with news ones when I resuscitated the truck about 6 months ago
 
All grounds were replaced with news ones when I resuscitated the truck about 6 months ago

They are the obvious ones, but they also get bad contacts in other places. I got my indicators and park lights to work better by adding earths directly to the park lights and indicator pods (7* series) .
 
99% of the electrical issues I encounter are on the ground side of things. Replacing primary battery grounds is a good start, but just a start. All it takes is one loose bolt that attaches something in the ground path for any specific electrical item for it to get wonky. These trucks have been vibrating loose for three decades. Running a dedicated ground wire from the battery to the dash area is something I do in every truck.

Another thing I do is run a dedicated ground to the fuel pump. From that ground I run a pig tail to the frame and another to the body in the rear of the truck. If I run a heavy "rear set" of cables to the driver rear 1/4 I run pig tails from that ground to frame and body.

You can be reactive to electrical issues and be at it forever. If you get proactive and go through the electrical system from the bottom (new primary cables and fusible links) on through the truck you just may get ahead of it. Good luck with your project! If it starts getting on your nerves, walk away and come back to it fresh later. Electrical issues could piss off the Pope.
 

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