Durable Glowplugs for 2H with aftermarket turbo. (1 Viewer)

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Jul 19, 2021
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HI all, newbie here.

HJ60 with a 2H with aftermarket turbo running 10.5 psi max. 12V system. I have a good busbar setup with custom copper rail and internal indication of power on the rail. It all works fine, but I seem to only get maybe 5 years out of glowplugs, and this is with use that is not every day, more like 5 times a month with a few starts thoughout that day.

Wondering members' thoughts on best glowplugs to buy that are perhaps more durable than others?

Also, I have always been curious that the supposed spec for glowplugs for my model are 6V. My system dips to a minimum of 10V when cranking with them and the other heaters fully on. Going on my dashboard indicator, the plugs appear to be getting full power all the time when on. ie not in series etc with other heaters. I've never been able to find a wiring diagram that fully matched what I have, so as well as asking about plugs that might suit a turbo'd 2H better, am also wondering if people could put up some diagrams of what they have for their old girl of this era. It is distinctly possible that "fiddling" was done with my girl before I acquired her, so I may have something incorrectly set up that I consider as standard. Perhaps the correct plug for me is truly a 12v one.....it has always seemed strange to me that the spec is 6V. A bit like coils with or without ballast resistors type of thing!

I've also pondered doing away with the temp related controls completely, and replacing them with fully manual operation. In some ways much better if one is in tune with ambient and what the engine needs. Pushbuttons working relays instead, run by the brain that only sometimes fails and generally self-repairs with a smack to the head accompanied by doh sounds!

Lastly, why the dashboard indicator hooked to the rail? When working in outback Aus I would often seen glowplugs destroyed through the controls keeping power on due to a failure somewhere, induced by road corrugation vibration. With the indicator this at least tells you something is astray and you can stop and check immediately. Corrugations and harsh conditions are the same reason I have an electric on demand vacuum pump....I would frequently see alternator disasters from leaking pumps, that sometimes lead to bigger issues....like no oil!

cheers, Honka
 
I can't edit as yet so some further info. Local ambients for me at worst are only a little below 0° C occasionally during winter. Today on startup it was about 1 and I noticed a very short run (about 3 seconds) of brighter illumination on my dash rail indicator and then it dropped back slightly, so I am guessing that my statement that "the plugs appear to be getting full power all the time when on" is perhaps incorrect. Maybe because this happens quite quickly, or only when cold enough, I haven't noticed it before, and the drop I noticed today on the indicator was not much...but definitely there. I remember measuring volts on the rail years ago, but didn't record anything. Might do it again tomorrow.
 
I haven't heard about much difference in durability. They last for years if the voltage is correct. I had HKS plugs for 6 years and they were still going strong when I sold it.
There is 2 part numbers for 12v-6v plugs and another for 12v-11v, depending on the year for Australian HJ60.
 
Thanks Rosco, other things have cropped up and I haven't set up a voltage check on cold start yet.

But I am intrigued with the 12v-11v plugs, which maybe are meant for the 24V systems? It is definitely one of those odd things that is confusing........let's see people put a globe for an old 6V beetle into their cruiser light and wonder why it blows!

Cheers, Honka
 
Hi Honka, It sounds like you have a 12v Superglow system and it actually appears from your description that it might be working properly. It uses resistors and relays to send timed, stepped voltages to the 6V glow plugs during the glow cycle. However, If your busbar shows 12 volts through the entire glow cycle, it might only be half working, and that might explain why the plugs have a shorter life- they mights be getting twice their recommended voltage for twice the duration.
Spend some time researching the super glow system. There are a lot of good threads on this forum.
 
But I am intrigued with the 12v-11v plugs, which maybe are meant for the 24V systems?

The 2 types I mentioned are for Australian 12v models. The 24volt Japanese model plugs are listed as 24v-14v
 
To further clarify, because it IS super confusing, The 12 volt plugs that are rated at 6V are for the "Super glow" system. The 12 volt plugs that are rated at 11V are for "direct" glow systems.

My 24 volt truck with super glow uses 14V glow plugs, and if i ripped out all the associated Super glow parts and wired up a straight wire to a switch on the dash, I'd need to use the 23 volt plugs...
 
Some further info as I slowly progress along trying to fix this. But it's not urgent and I can't currently spend too much time on it.

I still haven't logged volts anywhere, as I'm going to set up multiple readings into my logging systems I use for my work. That said, I've also noticed some more things, now that I'm paying more attention to the process.

We're still in cold conditions for my location, and the standard dash Glow indicator shows for about 2 seconds, and then a few seconds later my rail indicator drops slightly. Even with new plugs I know that this is still not enough to crank and go. I've always needed at least 15 seconds or more from key on for a surefire start when temp is around 0°C.

Once I've investigated a lot more I'll get back here with the results. Given I did lots on this issue ages ago, I'm a bit annoyed with myself. I normally keep detailed drawings of any elec changes I do, but in this case I can't find anything. Doh. I haven't yet dug out all my manuals as they're tucked away in body cavities. (I keep lots of my spares in these unused holes! eg all hosing is in the drop down tailgate) I'm vaguely remembering that the resistor involved is actually a heater coil in the manifold, thus preheating intake air as well. Side note....During my many years working in Alice Springs, I well remember going to a later Cruiser stuck in far far away truly outback Aus to fix, as it wouldn't start at all. The hot water on the manifold trick was all it took, as the elecs had totally pooped themselves. In that motor it seemed that the manifold heater was far more important.....all a bit fuzzy now.....long ago!

Cheers,
 
"body cavities" yeah yeah...not mine all you smartpants....the cruiser's! :)
 
don't know if this is helpful but I liked the manual 40 series glow plug set up when I had them. So I pulled the preheat superglow from my 2h hj75 non turbo and installed a wilson switch. I count longer 10 secs when cooler weather and shorter 6 secs during summer. I run 10.5v NGK Y-147T glows, knowing that ngk make the best spark plugs, only for 3-4 years admittedly but all seems good and happy. My voltage can drop down to 10.5v-ish whilst glowing, depending on how recently charged my battery is. I try not to leave my battery not being smart charged for longer than 3 days, if I am remote and not smart charging and it is cold, sometimes I kick in the second dual battery which also has cold crank amperage, if in doubt. She has always started first go.

I like to keep batteries charged. One day I shall set up a solar trickle charge..


5 years from glows doesn't sound too bad to me really, they can get dirty pending on the engine condition and maintenance.
Did you make a copper busbar?
 
Thanks Soda. Copper bar from the start. I haven't had time to rig up my volt read setup yet...other more important stuff has arisen and I haven't touched the old girl since. Sorry to all for the delay....it will happen and I'll post results when it does.

I used to have a 40 and did much the same as the "Wilson switch" my own way. Worked fine and is part of my pondering on the 60.

One thing I have found odd in the setup, that seems to be dumb design, is that it looks like part of the feed to the bar is actually a shunt, likely giving amps read to something. The problem with this is that if a plug fails then what impact does it have on the system's timing. If the timing remains the same that's fine, but then you have to ask why read it at all? If it adjusts things, then perhaps it makes it longer which might affect remaining plugs' life.

Cheers
 
don't think the timing is affected by the glows or voltage, if I read you right.
The way I see it, sorry if I sound dumb or demeaning. And I maybe wrong.

pistons,Fuel, pressure, boom, crank, injection pump and you are on your way. Why I love old diesels, all mechanical, pressure and fuel. Timing is managed by the timing gear cogs and camshaft.

If I had a flat battery in the bj40 on a hill , I would roll down and kick it over with momentum in second gear. Use to also disconnect the battery with a battery connector tap during daytime, once engine was running. I was remote and the voltage regulator was dead, also the alternator, I had to save the battery draining. It was quicker to find a battery tap than a functioning regulator and alternator on the road. Once running, don't need electric. Seriously avoided nightime driving those young/dumb, on the edge days.
I have some affection for an engine which can run without a battery. Think I am swimming against the tide.

Now, I just got a elcheapo volt meter which plugs into cig lighter for $4 of ebay. Got a bit fancier with the dual battery volt meter. I always keep a spare reg nowadays too!
 
25 years!! Now that is value.. Surely the engine was covered by the bonnet.

My old bj40 sometimes was left un -started for up to a year, not ideal, but always started first pop. Like the old 1952-56 massey ferg tractor we use to have.
, by rights glows play a momentary role in starting the engine.

half the glows on the pig wreck I am working on were rusted through. That is neglect.
 
When I said "timing" I was not meaning injection/engine timing of any sort. I was talking about the time delay the electronics do for the glowplugs and manifold heater. Which perhaps is directly related to the amp reading on the shunt. That was the pondering.

Cheers
 
ahh sorry, thats the closest thing to a computer it has, the pre heat timer, I pulled that out. Probably should try sellin it. With the wilson switch installed, don't need it.
 
25 years!! Now that is value..
I tried to buy some Denso glowplugs for another 1HZ and the parts guy at the local Toyota dealer in Perth come back and told me, with great embarrassment, they would be $248....ea. I often wonder if it was supposed to be for 6 plugs and he misread the pricing, but he said he double checked. In those days Amayama and access to Toyota dealers in Japan and Saudi Arabia was unheard of, so I went with the HKT plugs from Ebay which worked ok until I sold it 6 years later.
 

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