Pitman arm tie rod end hitting crossover linkage on full compression. (1 Viewer)

[1995cruiser]

Hello I have been working on this modified 1995 landcruiser and have literally hit another road block on my steering.
During or before full front suspension compression, Pitman arm tie rod are contacting hitting the crossover linkage.
I have found some posts on another forum with similar same problem. The truck has a 2.5" lift. A lot of people talked about getting an straight pitman arm to correct. I dont think that will work for my vehicle because turning to locks on a right turn would contact the pitman arm tie rod bolt at the frame. Also I think my down travel is a lot and would bind the pitman arm tie rod end severely if I changed that dimension less. I also found another vague post about running a flat pitman arm and notching the frame. I will suck the front end down for more information like how much more clearance I need.
They also speak of moving the steering gear forward 2 to 3". I dont mind that but I have thoughts about how to extend the steering column input shaft safely and correctly.
I think if there was a pitman arm with the same bend 3/4 to 1" longer would be the easiest fix. I am new to Toyota as of the beginning of Covid. Looking for some advise. I have pictures on request. Im not sure but I think what I have for steering linkage they refer to it as the GM 1 ton tie rod and drag link ends.

 

[Delta VS]

Hello I have been working on this modified 1995 landcruiser and have literally hit another road block on my steering.
During or before full front suspension compression, Pitman arm tie rod are contacting hitting the crossover linkage.
I have found some posts on another forum with similar same problem. The truck has a 2.5" lift. A lot of people talked about getting an straight pitman arm to correct. I dont think that will work for my vehicle because turning to locks on a right turn would contact the pitman arm tie rod bolt at the frame. Also I think my down travel is a lot and would bind the pitman arm tie rod end severely if I changed that dimension less. I also found another vague post about running a flat pitman arm and notching the frame. I will suck the front end down for more information like how much more clearance I need.
They also speak of moving the steering gear forward 2 to 3". I dont mind that but I have thoughts about how to extend the steering column input shaft safely and correctly.
I think if there was a pitman arm with the same bend 3/4 to 1" longer would be the easiest fix. I am new to Toyota as of the beginning of Covid. Looking for some advise. I have pictures on request. Im not sure but I think what I have for steering linkage they refer to it as the GM 1 ton tie rod and drag link ends.

Pics should most certainly be part of your first post on this kind of question.

 

[1995cruiser]

Sorry for the large pictures I assume they will be. I tried to shrink them but failed.

 

[1995cruiser]

almost hanging from the straps.

 

[1995cruiser]

This is about 1.5" from bottom out. and almost touching.

 

[Grandlooser]

Id vote for squeaking the box ahead as much as a PITA that may be. Im sure a longer pitman would work but then you are adding leverage to the box as well.

 

[jcardona1]

Yeah that's a custom 3 link on coilovers so not many people will be able to relate. You have too much up travel at the moment. Ideally the height of you coilover towers is set so the coilover's built-in bumps stop any interference during side to side articulation. That's how mine is, keep in mind I'm running Hellfire high steer knuckles. At this point the coilover is fully compressed right before the pitman arm touches the tierod.

If you look at Booger weldz's old 3 link threads, you'll notice he cut and raised the pitman arm. Might be an option too if you're a good welder.

 

[jcardona1]

Just realized it's the tierod joint itself that's hitting the tierod, not the pitman arm right? If so, the axle might be too far forward. Move it back just a hair if you can via the adjustable links, just keep an eye on your caster before & after.

 

[landtank]

put the tie rod back behind the axle as designed.

 

[Grandlooser]

Couldn't you also modify so that your tie rod is under mounted rather than on top of the arms? I realize that's a process too but any fix is going to be some work.

 

[1995cruiser]

So I noticed the bump stops lands only on the edge of the welded box bases not centered. I welded a piece of 1/2" plate 1 inch longer over the entire pad to make the bump land within the base all the way. The half inch plate I added leaves me with only about a 1/2'" to deal with clearance fully compressed. I got to measuring the length of the arms thinking about what you said comparing both sides and the driver side axel housing is 1/4" further back. The spring on the driver side rubs the bump sleeve slightly on the driver side fully collapsed only.
I think I can adjust the arms pushing the frontend forward slightly so tracking is correct first, then move them both driver and passenger forward another 1/2" and that might be enough.
I cant believe that one slipped past me. A question the pitman arm is it ok to weld it? I didn't know if it was tempered or anything. I will line it all up and tell you I think I'm close.

 

[1995cruiser]

put the tie rod back behind the axle as

put the tie rod back behind the axle as designed.

 

[1995cruiser]

Landtank is that really the fix?

 

[nukegoat]

Whoever built that did a bad job of figuring out clearances. Move something. I doubt you can move the tie rod behind the axle now.

Cheapest solution is to extend bumps

 

[SNLC]

Converted my 80 to crossover steering 10yrs ago. Even with GM 1ton offset tres and a y-link it was still a problem.

You need to redesign the panhard for it to work and be safe.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Also Sky Offroad makes flat and drop pitman arms that bolt on the 80 sector shaft.

Cheers

 

[landtank]

Landtank is that really the fix?

Sorry I don’t know. Somebody spent a lot of money and time to do all that work but missed some critical calculations. Like already mentioned , I’d bump stop the problem away.

 

[1995cruiser]

Sorry I don’t know. Somebody spent a lot of money and time to do all that work but missed some critical calculations. Like already mentioned , I’d bump stop the problem away.

Im working on that right now but I found lots of front end out of wack. Thanks ill post where I'm at after some words with her.

 

[1995cruiser]

jcardona1 and all thank you for helping me.​

You nailed that one. I have attached pictures.
The Fix . After reading all suggestions from the group, I started out by welding a 1/2" thick Plate on top of the existing bump stop pad. This helped me loose a 1/2" of my problem. When the suspension is compressed the bump stop would land right on the corner of the base pad. I added 1" in length to the existing 2"x2" pad. The plate I welded to the pad was 2"x3". Next I moved the front end back 3/4" so really 1" total was due to the fact the driver side was further forward by 1/4 from the passenger arm. I shrunk the passenger side 3/4 to match.
Now the driver side spring doesn't touch the bump stop sleeve fully compressed and the tie rod end is 1/4" away from hitting.
I messed up and didn't check the caster to see what degree it was before moving the front end back in this whole process. My manual says +3°
I checked my 06 Rubicon and found it coming in at +6° I set the landcruiser for three and test drove in it pulls slightly to the left and it did not do that before fixing my interference problem.
What are you running yours at. My tires are 40s.