Good brake bleeder for 100? Going to do my rear brakes (1 Viewer)

[nissanh]

I blead the brake about a week ago.

Key on engine off, paddle pressed in and hold.. crack open the bleeder screw rear passenger and wait... and KEEP an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir. You'll hear pump running and pushing fliud out of the bleeder screw. I got about 400 mL. Then close the bleeder. Refil and turn the ignition off. Wait and turn the ignition on again and continue left rear... repeat. Took no more then 40 minutes to bleed all 4.

After doing the last wheel, leave fluid between low and max. Give about 10 hours to see the actual level and add as needed. Mornings I have the level to the mid point of "Aisin" lettering and upon starting the engine, the level droppes to MAX.

 

[zhloea]

Plug the cord into a laptop that has Techstream and also the OBD port, then:

Hi, do we have a complete brake flush process post somewhere? I am still confusing, are abs bleeding and brake bleeding different or just the same thing? If I want to flush my brake system then what kind of bleeding I should do?

 

[flintknapper]

Hi, do we have a complete brake flush process post somewhere? I am still confusing, are abs bleeding and brake bleeding different or just the same thing? If I want to flush my brake system then what kind of bleeding I should do?

'Proper' brake bleeding should always include activating the ABS while there is pressure on the brake system to force any air (that can be trapped in the ABS) out along with the fluid. So it is not a separate procedure Per Se. You won't necessarily have air in the ABS....but it is possible.

Generally, what I do is bleed my brakes until I have clear fluid and no air bubbles coming out of all four calipers. Then I will activate the ABS several times and go back around and make a quick check for any air bubbles. Usually I will have very little if any additional bleeding to do.

There are a few ways to bleed the brakes depending upon whether you have help or are doing it by yourself. Probably best to do a search on that and read how others accomplish it.

 

[kevin2i]

I blead the brake about a week ago.

Key on engine off, paddle pressed in and hold.. crack open the bleeder screw rear passenger and wait... and KEEP an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir. You'll hear pump running and pushing fliud out of the bleeder screw. I got about 400 mL. Then close the bleeder. Refil and turn the ignition off. Wait and turn the ignition on again and continue left rear... repeat. Took no more then 40 minutes to bleed all 4.

After doing the last wheel, leave fluid between low and max. Give about 10 hours to see the actual level and add as needed. Mornings I have the level to the mid point of "Aisin" lettering and upon starting the engine, the level droppes to MAX.

^^This.
You need a few feet of 6mm/1/4: hose. 10mm wrench.
Every other post (except techstream) is complicating the process. LC will ‘bleed’ itself. Fronts go a bit slower.

Please read the manual.
(Manual has procedure for Toyota hand held tester -( I assume techstream works the same way no need to press brake peddle 40 times). This procedure keeps pump running - don't let fluid run out.

If you are not activating the ABS pump - You are doing it wrong.
- Kevin.

All you need:
(Longer hose helpful)

 

[zhloea]

'Proper' brake bleeding should always include activating the ABS while there is pressure on the brake system to force any air (that can be trapped in the ABS) out along with the fluid. So it is not a separate procedure Per Se. You won't necessarily have air in the ABS....but it is possible.

Generally, what I do is bleed my brakes until I have clear fluid and no air bubbles coming out of all four calipers. Then I will activate the ABS several times and go back around and make a quick check for any air bubbles. Usually I will have very little if any additional bleeding to do.

There are a few ways to bleed the brakes depending upon whether you have help or are doing it by yourself. Probably best to do a search on that and read how others accomplish it.

Thanks! when you said "I will activate the ABS several times", you mean hook up with your tester/Techstream then go through the steps guided by the tester/Techstream?
(compare with that "dirt" method, I think that Techstream is much more reasonable to me)

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks! when you said "I will activate the ABS several times", you mean hook up with your tester/Techstream then go through the steps guided by the tester/Techstream?
(compare with that "dirt" method, I think that Techstream is much more reasonable to me)

I don't have TechStream so the 'dirt' method is what I use. But convenient for me since I live on my ranch. All of my 'dirt' is right outside the door. I can jump in the vehicle go skid it in a pasture and be back at my shop in minutes.

But yes, TechStream would be the way to go if you have it.

 

[2001LC]

Reading through the thread, a few points come to mind:

First check booster motor run time to charge accumulator. 30 to 40 second is spec. at ~12.4V (volts measured at battery). Do before and after!

Flush the accumulator. I flush 5 times.

Make sure to not over fill. Institution for topping are on the reservoir.

 

[zhloea]

Hey guys, I got everything ready for my brake master assembly replacement today, as you can see from the pic below, I got "power bleeder with correct asian car cap" and "Techstream (v7.00.20, tested, abs bleed accessible so should work...)".

- Project: replace the brake master assembly and all four bleeder screws which missing caps (nobody knows when they are missed), and full brake bleed/flush

here is the plan:
1. I will drain the old brake fluid as much as I can from the reservoir with my vacuum pump
2. I will replace the old brake master cylinder assembly with the new one I bought, without top off the reservoir
3. I will replace all four bleeder screws before I connect the power bleeder on the new master assembly
4. Top off the brake fluid.
5. Then connect the power bleeder to the new assembly, apply the first turn of pressure bleeding.
6. connect the "tech stream", follow the procedure to do ABS bleeding.

Question:
1. Is this "do regular pressure bleeding first then do ABS bleeding with tech stream" a correct understanding/procedure?
2. will 6 bottles OEM brake fluid enough to go through this? (12oz bottle)
3. Is this whole plan sounds correct? anything I missed there or miss understanding?

Thank you so much for any suggestions always!

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I would skip the pressure/vacuum bleeding and do a combination of gravity bleeding and Techstream bleeding instead. Techstream doesn’t “bleed the ABS”, rather it activates the ABS to bleed the entire brake system.

 

[abuck99]

^^^
Agree pressure bleeder is unnecessary. Even with out TS, The rears self bleed with key on and slight brake pedal pressure applied- this can be done with an adjustable pole or a brace or stick. Fronts will gravity bleed, but a helper depressing the brake pedal will expedite the process. TS is def helpful to activate abs

 

[zhloea]

I would skip the pressure/vacuum bleeding and do a combination of gravity bleeding and Techstream bleeding instead. Techstream doesn’t “bleed the ABS”, rather it activates the ABS to bleed the entire brake system.

Thanks. What is gravity bleed?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Thanks. What is gravity bleed?

Open the bleeder screw and walk away.

 

[zhloea]

Open the bleeder screw and walk away.

Thanks for this suggestion @JunkCrzr89 and @abuck99 , since I don't really understand the procedure of gravity bleed, let's say...could I use a power bleeder => follow some of the those youtube videos to do a overall bleed, then use techstream=> active abs=> and kick the padel, to finally get this job done ?

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks for this suggestion @JunkCrzr89 and @abuck99 , since I don't really understand the procedure of gravity bleed, let's say...could I use a power bleeder => follow some of the those youtube videos to do a overall bleed, then use techstream=> active abs=> and kick the padel, to finally get this job done ?

Yes that will work fine. The power bleeder will help keep the reservoir full of fluid but don't overfill it and don't put more than 10 psi pressure on it, that is plenty.

 

[zhloea]

Yes that will work fine. The power bleeder will help keep the reservoir full of fluid but don't overfill it and don't put more than 10 psi pressure on it, that is plenty.

Thanks, I reviewed many posts/videos about this bleed, I only can fully understand and follow (mentally and no one will help me that long time to push the brake pedal) the power bleed procedure...based on my entry-level skills and experience of "DIY auto repair"...

 

[abuck99]

Gravity bleed is simply attaching a drain hose to the bleeder, cracking the bleeder open and allowing gravity to slowly drain the fluid-

A helper or a speed bleeder is still needed to do the final bleed where you open and close the bleeder with pressure applied to make sure no air bubbles worked in

 

[zhloea]

Gravity bleed is simply attaching a drain hose to the bleeder, cracking the bleeder open and allowing gravity to slowly drain the fluid-

A helper or a speed bleeder is still needed to do the final bleed where you open and close the bleeder with pressure applied to make sure no air bubbles worked in

Do we need the "car on or engine on" when we do that gravity bleed?

 

[zhloea]

Open the bleeder screw and walk away.

When we say "Techstream doesn’t “bleed the ABS”, rather it activates the ABS to bleed the entire brake system.", do you mean we still need to follow the steps in TechStream or somehow only use Techstream active the ABS? If the answer is the second one, how we do that？

 

[2001LC]

KISS. Not advise, just one of the ways I R&R brake master. Work on brakes is at your own risk!

Just some highlights, not whole procedure.

1) To drain or flush reservoir, I:

Key on, press and hold brake pedal, open rear bleeder. Note: Brake booster Motor, is designed for short run times of less than 2 minutes. Don't burn it up. Keep runs times under 2 minutes, each time than rest (cool) 2 minutes or more!

My little helper. Never complains and always has time for me. Spring loaded shower curtain rod.

Note: FSM, recommends pre-prime new master with brake fluid. Which means adding brake fluid to reservoir and working master plunger in and out a few times, until fluid pumps out.

2) Install new master. I take great care not to damage flare male or female threads and seat flare squarely.

3) Add fluid to max line. Do not spill brake fluid on master or body.

4) Turn IG key to on (all bleeders closed), until booster motor stops. If engine running, I can't hear when booster motor stops, so I don't start.

5) Turn key off. Pump pedal 40 times.

6) I repeat steps 3) 4) & 6) a few times. This bleeds accumulator.

7) Repeat step 1). But just flush a rear bleeder until no more air bubbles seen in clear tube run to catch can. This usually about 1/2 cup or more of brake fluid draining. Keep reservoir above min line at all times now.

8) Move to other rear bleeder and repeat.

9) Bleed air from a front lines/bleeder.
For this I use a live helper. Here we pump pedal 20 times key off. Than turn key on, and keep it on until both fronts done.
Pump pedal 5 more times once booster motor stops running, and hold pedal down.
Open bleeder as pedal held and pressed down. Note: never take pressure off brake pedal, while any bleeder open. Doing so, sucks in air.

Note: FSM has us start bleeding at fronts. I can come back and bleed again starting at fronts, but don't find I need to. I use the pump and start at rear to get max fluid or air out first.

10) Repeat step 9) at other front bleeder, with 5 pumps between bleeds (no need for 20 pumps unless pedal not firming up). Usually, a minimum of ten bleed repeats on RH side and 7 on LH side. But may take more times.

11) Repeat, fill procedure and time how long booster motor runs afterwards. Spec is 30 to 40 seconds. This is with battery at ~12.4 volts or greater.

12) Test braking in shop, then at slow speed.

13) Go out find a dirt or slick road, and stop hard from 35MPH or more, activating ABS. Repeat 3 times.

14) Inspect level again, look for leaks, check all nuts on and torque, check pedal height and free play.

14) Dry out bleeders and cap them. I use shop air to blow then out. Then, stick the thin tube from a can of brake cleaner in bleeder, to rinse out. More shop air to blow out again. Then stick the thin tube from a can of WD40 in bleeder, adding a drop. Install bleeder cap.


Clear tube and catch can.

I do use Tech stream (TS) to air bleed. When installing a new master or if master run dry. But in testing ABS function afterwards. Both without TS air bleed and with. I've found no difference in braking.

 

[zhloea]

KISS. Not advise, just one of the ways I R&R brake master. Working on brakes is at your own risk!

Just some highlights, not whole procedure.

1) To drain or flush reservoir, I:

Key on, press and hold brake pedal, open rear bleeder. Note: Motor is designed for short run times, don't burn it up. Keep runs times under 2 minutes, each time than rest (cool) 2 minutes or more!

My little helper. Never complains and always has time for me. Spring loaded shower curtain rod.
View attachment 2689179View attachment 2689178

Note: FSM, recommends pre-prime new master with brake fluid. Which means adding brake fluid to reservoir and working master plunger in and out a few times, until fluid pumps out.

2) Install new master. I take great care not to damage flare male or female threads and seat flare squarely.

3) Add fluid to max line. I do not spill brake fluid on master or body.
3A) Gravity feed with 1 or more bleeders open (key off). But this I may skipped. Depends on how much time I have.

4) Turn key to on (all bleeders closed), until booster motor stops. If engine running, I can't hear when booster motor stops, so I don't start.

5) Turn key off. Pump pedal 40 times.

6) I repeat steps 3) 4) & 6) a few times. This bleeds accumulator.

7) Repeat step 1). But just flush rear bleeder until no more air bubbles seen in clear tube run to catch can. This usually about 1/2 cup or more of brake fluid draining. Keep reservoir above min line at all times now.

8) Move to other rear bleeder and repeat.

9) Bleed air from front lines, one at a time.
For this I use a live helper. Here we pump pedal 20 times key off. Than turn key on, and keep it on until both fronts done.
Pump pedal 5 more times once booster motor stops running, and hold pedal down.
Open bleeder as pedal held and pressed down. Note: never take pressure off brake pedal, while bleeder open. Doing so, suck in air.

Note: FSM has us start bleed at fronts. I can come back and bleed again starting at fronts, but don't find I need to. I use the pump and start at rear to get max fluid or air out first.

10) Repeat strep 9) at front bleeder(s) one at a time, until no air. Usually a minimum of ten bleed repeats on RH side and 7 on LH side. But may take more times.

11) Repeat, fill procedure and time how long booster motor runs afterwards. Spec is 30 to 40 seconds. This is with battery at ~12.4 volts.

12) Test braking in shop, than at slow speed.

13) Go out find a dirt or slick road, and stop hard from 35MPH or more, activating ABS. Repeat 3 times.

14) Inspect level again, look for leaks, check all nuts on and torque, check pedal height and free play.

14) Dry out bleeders and cap them.

Note:
I'm working on a new time test. Or rather a variation of time test. It will be where brake pedal depressed during key on time test (accumulator pressurizing and brake calipers under pressure). I need to play with this on a known good working system, to get base line times. Times, may be just a tad higher??

Reason for this I just had and incidence of time test not revealing a leak.
What happened was; time tested at 38 seconds before and after flush & bleed. Which is high, but withing spec. Volts at battery, were around 11.4 to 11.6. Which is low (weak battery). Bleeder cap RH front would blow off. But not just when key on, which makes sense now that I've pondered it! The key had to be ON, also pedal depressed.

What we found was rig had aftermarket rebuilt caliper. The caliper bleeders female hole threads and bleeders male threads, were damaged. OEM bleeder would not fit this AM caliper, as different size. We replace caliper with OEM. Than time dropped to 34 seconds (now battery even lower at 11.3 volts), shaving 4 seconds. With good volts, we'd likely get even better times.

Clear tube and catch can.
View attachment 2689337

Man, if the FSM needs re-edition someday, you definitely deserve an editor position of it...Thank you!