Questions for those towing travel trailers with 2016+ LX570 (1 Viewer)

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stonekutters

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Location
San Jose, CA
Hi folks, a few weeks ago got the 2021 LX570 and sold my 2000 LC. A few newbie (to towing) questions for those that tow travel trailers (TTs) with the 2016+ LX570:
  1. When renting a trailer is it better to have your WD hitch? We'd like to rent a few times before we consider a trailer purchase.
    1. Is something like a ProPride hitch installable on a rental trailer or is it not someone one would do?
  2. For tongue weight the manual states 700lbs, with a WD hitch what's the wiggle room, if any? I'm assuming tongue weight should be within 10-15% and <700lbs with a WD hitch.
  3. Anyone use the Tekonsha Prodigy RF wireless brake controller? Most folks I see are using the Tekonsha P3. I know the panels under the steering wheel need to come off and also need a mounting place for the P3.
  4. Any concerns towing with the stock 21" tires? Prefer not to switch out the tire set but open to it if it helps a lot.
Note that I am asking for info on 2016+ as the towing specs have changed dramatically between the early 200's to the later ones, likely due to SAE J2807 certification. Reference threads I've gone through:
Many thanks in advance and happy to read up on threads I may have missed! :)
 
I can address the ProPride question. The answer is, no. Installing a ProPride is actually quite a chore and the difficulty varies by trailer model. It is not easy on, easy off. It is a great hitch. I have one. But taking it on and off is not easy. As for renting, I have never done it but I would think that the renter may already have a WD hitch on their trailer.
 
I can address the ProPride question. The answer is, no. Installing a ProPride is actually quite a chore and the difficulty varies by trailer model. It is not easy on, easy off. It is a great hitch. I have one. But taking it on and off is not easy. As for renting, I have never done it but I would think that the renter may already have a WD hitch on their trailer.

Thanks!
 
Where did you mount the controls for the Redarc? I like the built in look option!
I put mine in the panel by the right side of the steering wheel, but have seen them done many other locations.

E3D43A62-6300-4E57-9A2C-CE77ED00643D.jpeg
 
I've rented a trailer before I bought. The trailer will already have a WD hitch installed if it needs one. You won't be able to install your own as it can be non-trivial to install. Let alone setup. Particularly PPP type hitches, as they're not exactly common.
 
I've rented a trailer before I bought. The trailer will already have a WD hitch installed if it needs one. You won't be able to install your own as it can be non-trivial to install. Let alone setup. Particularly PPP type hitches, as they're not exactly common.

Cool, thank you!

Ordered the Redarc trailer brake controller.
 
So I have a ’16 LX570 and had many of the same questions last year before renting my first travel trailer. Outside of 1 or 2 posts across all of the forums, there was very little info WRT towing heavy with a late model LX.

My trip was from SLC to Jackson, WY. All in all, I was very happy with the performance of the truck. I was carrying 6 people in the vehicle and the tongue weight was close to 800 pounds, so I was near max payload weight, in fact max everything. Anyway a few pointers from my experience below.

Setup
- I got the Redarc brake controller and clip on tow mirrors for my vehicle before the trip. I liked the clean install of the Redarc, although getting to the brake controller harness in the dash was a PITA to connect the controller.
- I rented a 24’ Jayco Bunkhouse for the trip. Length was 27’ - ball to rear bumper. I suspect the trailer loaded was in the neighborhood of 6500lbs. I initially wanted to rent a larger 26’, but didn’t want to get over my head as a newbie towing. The travel trailer I rented did not have a WD hitch, not ideal, but we managed.
- Everything else was stock on my vehicle, including the 21” tires.

Tow experience
- Overall the LX performed beautifully. Despite not having a WD hitch, I had very little sway, except a few occasions - later on this.
- Avg 8.5 to 9 MPG
- When cruising, recommend transmission in sport mode at 6th gear. Sports mode is your friend for engine braking and acceleration.
- AHC is a champ. It is amazing how much the truck sagged when loading the hitch, to only see it fully level after the AHC engaged.
- I had AHC in comfort, not thinking about adjusting it to sport suspension mode. I think sport mode may provide a little more stability in sway situations and I will try in the future.
- Only at one point did the engine labor. I was on Hwy 89 in Star Valley, WY. Probably close to 7500 ft altitude and a decent uphill grade. Needed to floor the gas for the car to maintain 60mph for the long uphill
- I closely monitored my tire pressure most of the trip. As I was concern about the heavy load on the 2 ply 21” tires. I increased the PSI per the manual for towing and my TPMS indicated that the tires were around 44-45psi while moving. Higher than I liked, but I was okay.
- On our way back on i-80, near the UT/WYO border, the winds did pick up, and I did experience 3 or 4 white knuckle moments with sway. It was enough to get my attention. I slowed my speed down to ~65mph. Issue is that the speed limit in that section is 80mph, so when trucks passed us it exacerbated the situation. I think in the small stretch of road a WD hitch probably would have greatly helped. Since my trip only involved being on i-80 for a short period of time, I was okay with it. But if I needed to drive a long stretch of interstate - esp in windy Wyoming- I definitely would have liked one.

Learnings
- On the way to Jackson, my fresh water tanks were topped. So I was hauling 80 gals of water and a ton more weight. If you’re staying at a RV park, you don’t need to carry that much.
- I now have a second set of 18” tires. If I went on a long trip, I may consider switching to those tires, as I think they have an extra ply for durability.
- If I had a WD hitch, I may be willing to tow a 26’ next time around, even if it slightly weighed more.

Hope that helps.

2256.JPEG
 
I put mine in the panel by the right side of the steering wheel, but have seen them done many other locations.

View attachment 2663675

I moved mine to the very same button location as @CharlieS when I installed it on my new LC. On the previous LC I had it on the left side and from time to time I would bump it with my leg and it would spin the adjustment knob leaving it at 10. I can‘t see it as easily in its new position but I know where it is by feel.
 
So I have a ’16 LX570 and had many of the same questions last year before renting my first travel trailer. Outside of 1 or 2 posts across all of the forums, there was very little info WRT towing heavy with a late model LX.

My trip was from SLC to Jackson, WY. All in all, I was very happy with the performance of the truck. I was carrying 6 people in the vehicle and the tongue weight was close to 800 pounds, so I was near max payload weight, in fact max everything. Anyway a few pointers from my experience below.

Setup
- I got the Redarc brake controller and clip on tow mirrors for my vehicle before the trip. I liked the clean install of the Redarc, although getting to the brake controller harness in the dash was a PITA to connect the controller.
- I rented a 24’ Jayco Bunkhouse for the trip. Length was 27’ - ball to rear bumper. I suspect the trailer loaded was in the neighborhood of 6500lbs. I initially wanted to rent a larger 26’, but didn’t want to get over my head as a newbie towing. The travel trailer I rented did not have a WD hitch, not ideal, but we managed.
- Everything else was stock on my vehicle, including the 21” tires.

Tow experience
- Overall the LX performed beautifully. Despite not having a WD hitch, I had very little sway, except a few occasions - later on this.
- Avg 8.5 to 9 MPG
- When cruising, recommend transmission in sport mode at 6th gear. Sports mode is your friend for engine braking and acceleration.
- AHC is a champ. It is amazing how much the truck sagged when loading the hitch, to only see it fully level after the AHC engaged.
- I had AHC in comfort, not thinking about adjusting it to sport suspension mode. I think sport mode may provide a little more stability in sway situations and I will try in the future.
- Only at one point did the engine labor. I was on Hwy 89 in Star Valley, WY. Probably close to 7500 ft altitude and a decent uphill grade. Needed to floor the gas for the car to maintain 60mph for the long uphill
- I closely monitored my tire pressure most of the trip. As I was concern about the heavy load on the 2 ply 21” tires. I increased the PSI per the manual for towing and my TPMS indicated that the tires were around 44-45psi while moving. Higher than I liked, but I was okay.
- On our way back on i-80, near the UT/WYO border, the winds did pick up, and I did experience 3 or 4 white knuckle moments with sway. It was enough to get my attention. I slowed my speed down to ~65mph. Issue is that the speed limit in that section is 80mph, so when trucks passed us it exacerbated the situation. I think in the small stretch of road a WD hitch probably would have greatly helped. Since my trip only involved being on i-80 for a short period of time, I was okay with it. But if I needed to drive a long stretch of interstate - esp in windy Wyoming- I definitely would have liked one.

Learnings
- On the way to Jackson, my fresh water tanks were topped. So I was hauling 80 gals of water and a ton more weight. If you’re staying at a RV park, you don’t need to carry that much.
- I now have a second set of 18” tires. If I went on a long trip, I may consider switching to those tires, as I think they have an extra ply for durability.
- If I had a WD hitch, I may be willing to tow a 26’ next time around, even if it slightly weighed more.

Hope that helps.

View attachment 2663729

That is impressive. The LX AHC really helps with leveling. I don’t have an LX but experienced essentially the same on the Land Rover LR4 we had. As for sway, be sure to look for a hitch that reduces or resists sway. The weight distribution function and the sway resistance function are different though nearly all good weight distribution hitches include some sway resistance. Also remember that when you use a WD hitch it “stiffens” the connection between the tow vehicle and the trailer. It may “feel” different. Not bad. Just different. And one more thing. I have heard that the use of weight distribution can effect or be effected by the AHC leveling. I don’t drive an LX so I am not personally knowledgeable about this. But you may want to check with those who do. (@TeCKis300 is a great resource for this!)

You did the right thing to slow down when it got windy. Yes, it means that trucks will pass you and that is unsettling but at least you can see it coming. Personally, we never driver over 65 when towing.

One more thing for those who are new to towing. I found it helpful to drive around the loaded LC/LX for a while and carefully notice how it felt in the wind or when passed by truck and so on. The reason is that when I first started towing I was hyper-aware of every little movement or sensation coming from the tow vehicle. That made for more white knuckles than necessary. Then I realized afterward when driving without the trailer many of those sensations were normal when not towing. I had just grown used to them.

For climbing passes and doing descents (throughout Colorado’s mountains) I tend to pay as much attention to the RPM as the speed. In the overall scheme of things, saving a couple minutes on a long climb or descent is just irrelevant. Safety is king. So I would watch my Tach and try to keep my RPM in the 3,000-3,500 range. (Some guys monitor transmission temps and other stuff but that is way too much for me. I just try to keep it in the the torque range sweet spot though not obsessively).

Have fun and be safe! I found that going a bit slower and keeping more distance between me and the vehicles in front of me and even driving slower secondary highways allowed me to relax and enjoy the drive more. That actually carried over to my everyday driving. I no longer push when out driving. I just enjoy the ride of the LC and, sometimes, the amazing scenery and geology we get to drive through in the West. Well, except for driving 80 through Wyoming which is almost as bad as driving across Kansas! ;)
 
Last edited:
So I have a ’16 LX570 and had many of the same questions last year before renting my first travel trailer. Outside of 1 or 2 posts across all of the forums, there was very little info WRT towing heavy with a late model LX.

My trip was from SLC to Jackson, WY. All in all, I was very happy with the performance of the truck. I was carrying 6 people in the vehicle and the tongue weight was close to 800 pounds, so I was near max payload weight, in fact max everything. Anyway a few pointers from my experience below.

Setup
- I got the Redarc brake controller and clip on tow mirrors for my vehicle before the trip. I liked the clean install of the Redarc, although getting to the brake controller harness in the dash was a PITA to connect the controller.
- I rented a 24’ Jayco Bunkhouse for the trip. Length was 27’ - ball to rear bumper. I suspect the trailer loaded was in the neighborhood of 6500lbs. I initially wanted to rent a larger 26’, but didn’t want to get over my head as a newbie towing. The travel trailer I rented did not have a WD hitch, not ideal, but we managed.
- Everything else was stock on my vehicle, including the 21” tires.

Tow experience
- Overall the LX performed beautifully. Despite not having a WD hitch, I had very little sway, except a few occasions - later on this.
- Avg 8.5 to 9 MPG
- When cruising, recommend transmission in sport mode at 6th gear. Sports mode is your friend for engine braking and acceleration.
- AHC is a champ. It is amazing how much the truck sagged when loading the hitch, to only see it fully level after the AHC engaged.
- I had AHC in comfort, not thinking about adjusting it to sport suspension mode. I think sport mode may provide a little more stability in sway situations and I will try in the future.
- Only at one point did the engine labor. I was on Hwy 89 in Star Valley, WY. Probably close to 7500 ft altitude and a decent uphill grade. Needed to floor the gas for the car to maintain 60mph for the long uphill
- I closely monitored my tire pressure most of the trip. As I was concern about the heavy load on the 2 ply 21” tires. I increased the PSI per the manual for towing and my TPMS indicated that the tires were around 44-45psi while moving. Higher than I liked, but I was okay.
- On our way back on i-80, near the UT/WYO border, the winds did pick up, and I did experience 3 or 4 white knuckle moments with sway. It was enough to get my attention. I slowed my speed down to ~65mph. Issue is that the speed limit in that section is 80mph, so when trucks passed us it exacerbated the situation. I think in the small stretch of road a WD hitch probably would have greatly helped. Since my trip only involved being on i-80 for a short period of time, I was okay with it. But if I needed to drive a long stretch of interstate - esp in windy Wyoming- I definitely would have liked one.

Learnings
- On the way to Jackson, my fresh water tanks were topped. So I was hauling 80 gals of water and a ton more weight. If you’re staying at a RV park, you don’t need to carry that much.
- I now have a second set of 18” tires. If I went on a long trip, I may consider switching to those tires, as I think they have an extra ply for durability.
- If I had a WD hitch, I may be willing to tow a 26’ next time around, even if it slightly weighed more.

Hope that helps.

View attachment 2663729

I find it pretty shocking they would rent a 27' overall length trailer without an installed WD hitch, or make one available? That in my mind is bordering on negligence. Even the finest towing 1/2 truck without question should utilize one.

Speed is indeed the biggest variable to inducing sway. WD hitches are pretty key to expanding the stable performance envelop.

Glad you were able to enjoy it and get some hands on time with a trailer. It's a great way to experience travel trailer RVing. I've found the biggest differences in owning one vs renting, is that it immediately feels like home the day vacation starts. There's no extended loading and unloading as everything onboard is your own and you know what it's stocked with.
 
That is impressive. The LX AHC really helps with leveling. I don’t have an LX but experienced essentially the same on the Land Rover LR4 we had. As for sway, be sure to look for a hitch that reduces or resists sway. The weight distribution function and the sway resistance function are different though nearly all good weight distribution hitches include some sway resistance. Also remember that when you use a WD hitch it “stiffens” the connection between the tow vehicle and the trailer. It may “feel” different. Not bad. Just different. And one more thing. I have heard that the use of weight distribution can effect or be effected by the AHC leveling. I don’t drive an LX so I am not personally knowledgeable about this. But you may want to check with those who do. (@TeCKis300 is a great resource for this!)

You did the right thing to slow down when it got windy. Yes, it means that trucks will pass you and that is unsettling but at least you can see it coming. Personally, we never driver over 65 when towing.

One more thing for those who are new to towing. I found it helpful to drive around the loaded LC/LX for a while and carefully notice how it felt in the wind or when passed by truck and so on. The reason is that when I first started towing I was hyper-aware of every little movement or sensation coming from the tow vehicle. That made for more white knuckles than necessary. Then I realized afterward when driving without the trailer many of those sensations were normal when not towing. I had just grown used to them.

For climbing passes and doing descents (throughout Colorado’s mountains) I tend to pay as much attention to the RPM as the speed. In the overall scheme of things, saving a couple minutes on a long climb or descent is just irrelevant. Safety is king. So I would watch my Tach and try to keep my RPM in the 3,000-3,500 range. (Some guys monitor transmission temps and other stuff but that is way too much for me. I just try to keep it in the the torque range sweet spot though not obsessively).

Have fun and be safe! I found that going a bit slower and keeping more distance between me and the vehicles in front of me and even driving slower secondary highways allowed me to relax and enjoy the drive more. That actually carried over to my everyday driving. I no longer push when out driving. I just enjoy the ride of the LC and, sometimes, the amazing scenery and geology we get to drive through in the West. Well, except for driving 80 through Wyoming which is almost as bad as driving across Kansas! ;)

Yes, the AHC leveling function (similar to airbags or air suspension) has the potential to negate WD tension if not setup correction. It's vitally important to establish WD bar settings/tension after the TV and trailer are fully level.

Agreed with everything you've said. Just a comment on RPM.

Contrary to popular belief, climbing is done with HP.

Torque is directly correlated with combustion pressure. Operating at the torque peak is the same as operating at the engines highest combustion pressures. Highest combustion pressure means greatest combustion heat, pressure, and stress loads on piston rings and bearing surfaces. Analogy would be biking - is it best to climb hills grunting massive torque that's harder on muscles and joints? Or choose a lower gear and spin?

Best to use higher RPM which encourages more fluid circulation, lower combustion pressures, and better performance.
 
Yes, the AHC leveling function (similar to airbags or air suspension) has the potential to negate WD tension if not setup correction. It's vitally important to establish WD bar settings/tension after the TV and trailer are fully level.

Agreed with everything you've said. Just a comment on RPM.

Contrary to popular belief, climbing is done with HP.

Torque is directly correlated with combustion pressure. Operating at the torque peak is the same as operating at the engines highest combustion pressures. Highest combustion pressure means greatest combustion heat, pressure, and stress loads on piston rings and bearing surfaces. Analogy would be biking - is it best to climb hills grunting massive torque that's harder on muscles and joints? Or choose a lower gear and spin?

Best to use higher RPM which encourages more fluid circulation, lower combustion pressures, and better performance.

Interesting. So your recommendation would be to drop down a gear and increase the RPM to higher than 3500? That is a question, not a challenge. ;). I'm not knowledgeable in drive chain technology (or any auto technology) so I just go with what seems right. At least I haven't been trying to climb those mountain passes in overdrive at 2,000 RPM. Right?
 
Interesting. So your recommendation would be to drop down a gear and increase the RPM to higher than 3500? That is a question, not a challenge. ;). I'm not knowledgeable in drive chain technology (or any auto technology) so I just go with what seems right. At least I haven't been trying to climb those mountain passes in overdrive at 2,000 RPM. Right?

Yes, I would encourage more RPM. Max HP is @ 5600rpm for the 5.7L. Not to necessarily shoot for that as a target unless you need max oomph, as it's also its own relative peak stress level, but there is lots of room to operate with higher RPMs.

The idea with rpm is to use more combustion events to help do the climbing work. Rather than big heavy combustion events at max torque, apply more lighter combustion events. RPM also helps with additional coolant and oil flow, both in the engine and transmission.

The 5.7L is overall a strong and flexible motor. It's likely happy to operate low, high, and everything in between, so it's really just an optimization recommendation.

Perhaps also interesting is the climbing performance available at max HP. HP is ~200HP @ 3500 RPM vs ~320 HP @ 5600 RPM.

1620059473575.png
 
So I have a ’16 LX570 and had many of the same questions last year before renting my first travel trailer. Outside of 1 or 2 posts across all of the forums, there was very little info WRT towing heavy with a late model LX.

My trip was from SLC to Jackson, WY. All in all, I was very happy with the performance of the truck. I was carrying 6 people in the vehicle and the tongue weight was close to 800 pounds, so I was near max payload weight, in fact max everything. Anyway a few pointers from my experience below.

Setup
- I got the Redarc brake controller and clip on tow mirrors for my vehicle before the trip. I liked the clean install of the Redarc, although getting to the brake controller harness in the dash was a PITA to connect the controller.
- I rented a 24’ Jayco Bunkhouse for the trip. Length was 27’ - ball to rear bumper. I suspect the trailer loaded was in the neighborhood of 6500lbs. I initially wanted to rent a larger 26’, but didn’t want to get over my head as a newbie towing. The travel trailer I rented did not have a WD hitch, not ideal, but we managed.
- Everything else was stock on my vehicle, including the 21” tires.

Tow experience
- Overall the LX performed beautifully. Despite not having a WD hitch, I had very little sway, except a few occasions - later on this.
- Avg 8.5 to 9 MPG
- When cruising, recommend transmission in sport mode at 6th gear. Sports mode is your friend for engine braking and acceleration.
- AHC is a champ. It is amazing how much the truck sagged when loading the hitch, to only see it fully level after the AHC engaged.
- I had AHC in comfort, not thinking about adjusting it to sport suspension mode. I think sport mode may provide a little more stability in sway situations and I will try in the future.
- Only at one point did the engine labor. I was on Hwy 89 in Star Valley, WY. Probably close to 7500 ft altitude and a decent uphill grade. Needed to floor the gas for the car to maintain 60mph for the long uphill
- I closely monitored my tire pressure most of the trip. As I was concern about the heavy load on the 2 ply 21” tires. I increased the PSI per the manual for towing and my TPMS indicated that the tires were around 44-45psi while moving. Higher than I liked, but I was okay.
- On our way back on i-80, near the UT/WYO border, the winds did pick up, and I did experience 3 or 4 white knuckle moments with sway. It was enough to get my attention. I slowed my speed down to ~65mph. Issue is that the speed limit in that section is 80mph, so when trucks passed us it exacerbated the situation. I think in the small stretch of road a WD hitch probably would have greatly helped. Since my trip only involved being on i-80 for a short period of time, I was okay with it. But if I needed to drive a long stretch of interstate - esp in windy Wyoming- I definitely would have liked one.

Learnings
- On the way to Jackson, my fresh water tanks were topped. So I was hauling 80 gals of water and a ton more weight. If you’re staying at a RV park, you don’t need to carry that much.
- I now have a second set of 18” tires. If I went on a long trip, I may consider switching to those tires, as I think they have an extra ply for durability.
- If I had a WD hitch, I may be willing to tow a 26’ next time around, even if it slightly weighed more.

Hope that helps.

View attachment 2663729

This is all wonderful info, thank you! A few follow-ups:
  1. The tongue weight of 800lbs seems over the factory recommended 700lbs, were you able to weigh your whole set up? Maybe a broader question, where does one go to get their total GCWR?
  2. How accurate is the TPMS to manually checking the tires? The manual recommends 39psi for the rear tires when towing and 33psi for the front, did you inflate all 4 tires or just the rear?
  3. 80 gallons of water is 667lbs, wow! At an RV park, do they have fresh water hookups on each site or do you fill-up at a central location prior to parking? Great tip to avoid weight especially if water is available at the camp site.
 
Yes, I would encourage more RPM. Max HP is @ 5600rpm for the 5.7L. Not to necessarily shoot for that as a target unless you need max oomph, as it's also its own relative peak stress level, but there is lots of room to operate with higher RPMs.

The idea with rpm is to use more combustion events to help do the climbing work. Rather than big heavy combustion events at max torque, apply more lighter combustion events. RPM also helps with additional coolant and oil flow, both in the engine and transmission.

The 5.7L is overall a strong and flexible motor. It's likely happy to operate low, high, and everything in between, so it's really just an optimization recommendation.

Perhaps also interesting is the climbing performance available at max HP. HP is ~200HP @ 3500 RPM vs ~320 HP @ 5600 RPM.

View attachment 2664034

Super helpful, thank you!
 
This is all wonderful info, thank you! A few follow-ups:
  1. The tongue weight of 800lbs seems over the factory recommended 700lbs, were you able to weigh your whole set up? Maybe a broader question, where does one go to get their total GCWR?
  2. How accurate is the TPMS to manually checking the tires? The manual recommends 39psi for the rear tires when towing and 33psi for the front, did you inflate all 4 tires or just the rear?
  3. 80 gallons of water is 667lbs, wow! At an RV park, do they have fresh water hookups on each site or do you fill-up at a central location prior to parking? Great tip to avoid weight especially if water is available at the camp site.
I can't address the question on tongue weight for the LX but as for weighing you can go to CAT scales. If you are traveling in OR and WA then you will find DOT scales only most of the major highways (not interstates) that are used to weigh trucks. Often the weight stations are closed. You can pull through them and over the scale and get a weight for each axle.

I have always found my TPMS to differ with the manual pressure gauges. TPMS on my prior LC was always a couple PSI lower than the manual gauges. But I knew that and adapted.

Yes, water is heavy! We never two with a full water tank. We might put ~10 gallons in the tank for using the toilet. We drink store-bought water and don't carry that much - maybe 3 gallons. Nearly every RV park will have fresh water at the site or at least at a dump station. Forest service campgrounds may have none of this. But you can often pull into a State Park and use their dump station/water fill for a fee.
 
BTW, you may find better info on forums that are specific to towing trailers or on YouTube. When we first started towing we watched the LoLoHo YouTube channel. It is by a couple who tow an Airstream all over the US though they are towing it with a truck. But lots of good advice on towing and camping with a trailer.
 

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