Crank, no start, 5 months in, frustrated (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 29, 2020
Threads
3
Messages
52
Location
Calgary, AB
I have a 2001 LX470, 353,000 km in Calgary, Alberta. Owned for 1.5 years.
Previous owner had it 10 years in Calgary and Golden, BC.

Right now it cranks fast, trying to catch and stalling many times while cranking. Starts for 1-5 seconds when fuel pump hot wired then sputters and dies.

I was driving to the ski hill in Dec 2020 after a dump and it lost power and died. I coasted to a stop on the road with 4-5 foot snow banks covering the shoulder, so I was parked in the driving lane. People were helpful and a Scottish guy stopped to help. He said he loved the cruisers when working in the middle east, but can't afford one here. I got towed by his Dodge half-ton 10 min to the ski hill, and I always make fun of my friend's Dodge pickup and how much he has to fix it. Embarassing.

Now that the weather is nice, I have been working on it for a couple weeks a bit each day and still can't get it going.

I have no fuel at the fuel filter, no power to the fuel pump on the top two connectors at the pump when cranking. When the pump is direct-wired from battery the truck starts for 1-5 seconds then stalls . I have 1.5 volts on the top right (ground) w/ ignition on, nothing while cranking. Which is slightly weird. No continuity to ground on top right when cranking. No continutity on either of the top two wires to any contact on the ECD plug (actually I get 445 to 1500 ohms resistance on one contact at pump, no continuity on the other).

Fuel pump connection image attached from the public library Auto Repair online system.

I replaced the old Denso Iridium spark plugs, which were old and had some carbon built up, but working, just a little slow starting. Spark seems to be strong on one cylinder that I checked.

New fuel pump. Both old and new pump test ok at 1.5 ohms and both work when given 12 V direct power. Old one is out of truck, new one tested in truck (runs for 1-5 seconds, sputters and dies when hot wired).

EFI fuse is ok, 12.57 V on both sides, and looks good, not melted. Fuse box does not show signs of heat. I put in a new 20 A fuse & tried a new 30 A fuse. Still no start.
ECD Relay tests ok at Lexus dealer. 074 Ohm across terminals 1&3. Clicks on/off with key, does not seem to be chattering.

Tried hot-wiring + to Terminal F and between E & F on the ECD relay plug on the fuse box, no start.

Tried 3 different keys. Immobilizer light blinks at first and goes out. Immobilizer light stays on if I use the metal key withought the chip card held near the key, so this makes me think that this is working correctly. Light goes out when chip card is held near ignition.

I reset the inertia switch above the gas pedal, no start.

Next I am going to try and check continuity on wires between fuel pump plug and fuel pump control unit.

Is the fuel pump ECU between the ECD relay and pump?

I have been driving a backup truck that I was planning on selling. It is a GMC Sierra 2500 HD. All I need is to 4x4 and to haul 2 ATV's or 2-3 dirt bikes and it is really overkill with that thirsty 6 L, but it WORKS!

I ruled out timing belt slip or fail, because it starts on ether (farm talk for starting fluid) or hot-wired fuel pump.

I'm frustrated with my 100 and planning a 6 day camping and dirt biking trip this weekend.

What should I do next?

Fuel pump connection.gif
 
CEL?Any codes to share? Years ago I had a cherokee that gave me similar issues, didn't drive it for a number or months, had replaced fuel pump etc. Turn out to be Throttle Position Sensor mounted on the transmission housing.
 
I would start with the basics - why no power to the fuel pump? Short somewhere? Trace those wires. Once you get that solved, then move upstream. You know it will start with the pump direct powered but won't stay running - fuel filter clogged? Fuel flow past the filter adequate?
 
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Check the Fuel pump relay. It can click but won't pass a current. Test the wire pins at the fuel pump wire socket with 55 W bulb to make sure you are getting enough current to spin the motor inside the fuel pump. A typical test light mught show continuity but does not show the amps that can pass in that circuit.
 
CEL?Any codes to share? Years ago I had a cherokee that gave me similar issues, didn't drive it for a number or months, had replaced fuel pump etc. Turn out to be Throttle Position Sensor mounted on the transmission housing.
No check engine light, no DTC codes on my OBDII scanner. I can't get Techstream to talk with the truck (2 different cables and drivers). Running Windows 10.

I think the throttle position sensor should send a code.
 
@2001LC courtesy phone . . .

Bad ECU?
I have the Yellow Engine light (Check Engine) come on with the key. It seems if the ECU is bad the engine light won't come on, so I ruled that out.

Also has good spark. Runs on ether and for a few seconds with the pump direct wired.

Can a bad ECU still have good spark?
 
The fuse boxes after time become quite finicky. Mine came with this wire. It does not start without it.

A631DFF3-9C5D-49D0-8FF6-AF8B3A566A97.jpeg


6BE0ED31-DB8B-4B79-B683-B4D3B5FA5292.jpeg
 
I would start by checking all grounds.
 
Crank position sensor?

Coolant Temp sensor (affects open loop / closed loop and fuel pressure)

MAF sensor?
 
FWIW, my wire harness to the fuel pump got pinched and rubbed over time and sent a short through the fuel pump and sender that zapped them (and also probably helped boil the fuel tank at 8000ft elevation on a 100°F day).
 
Personally, before trying a different ECU, for fun I would take out the ECU board, spray it down with QD electronic cleaner (or other contact cleaner), and put it back. It solved my throttle body issue along with someone else's, and have no idea how or why. Apparently the ECU just gets dusty and dirty and shorts out in weird ways.
 
Personally, before trying a different ECU, for fun I would take out the ECU board, spray it down with QD electronic cleaner (or other contact cleaner), and put it back. It solved my throttle body issue along with someone else's, and have no idea how or why. Apparently the ECU just gets dusty and dirty and shorts out in weird ways.
Thanks, Did you have a throttle body DTC/OBDII code?
 
FWIW, my wire harness to the fuel pump got pinched and rubbed over time and sent a short through the fuel pump and sender that zapped them (and also probably helped boil the fuel tank at 8000ft elevation on a 100°F day).
So the old fuel pump works and has the correct 1.5 ohms resistance, so it was not fried. I had trouble getting a ground on the fuel pump harness, though.

Anyone know if there should be a constant ground to the fuel pump, or is it switched or controlled by the ECU?
 
The fuse boxes after time become quite finicky. Mine came with this wire. It does not start without it.


-It seems my fuse box is ok. My voltages on the relay socket seem to be good. 12.7 key on and 12.54 cranking. That is for the top right connector, I believe it is called F on here for the ECD relay info posts and pics. I also did the direct wire batt + to F and between E & F, no start.

That should rule out the fuse box bad connection issues, right?
 
-It seems my fuse box is ok. My voltages on the relay socket seem to be good. 12.7 key on and 12.54 cranking. That is for the top right connector, I believe it is called F on here for the ECD relay info posts and pics. I also did the direct wire batt + to F and between E & F, no start.

That should rule out the fuse box bad connection issues, right?
It would seem so, have you chase the wiring from fuel pump to fuse block? A recent thread I saw showing pics of mice damaged wires was horrifying. Was there any work that was done prior to it's no run status?
 
How can I diagose if the crank position sensor is working or not?
Crank sensors are typically either working or not. Parts cannon on that.

Not sure if there is a specific test for them in the FSM for your year.

Seeing that it starts and dies, but you still have a CEL in the RUN position, then the ECU should be OK.

The intermittent thing is troublesome. That's what makes me think since it runs on ether, that is similar on the 80 series when it's either a MAF sensor or the IAC valve.
 

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