I was traveling up I90 eastbound and near the top the cruiser dies. I popped the hood and saw wires burning at the battery and then notice the wiring harness heating up by the firewall. Anyway, got it home. Towed. Starter turns over, lights turn on, signals, heater blower all work. I crawled around underneath and can't see any shorts to the frame. It really seems the source started at the positive terminal of the battery. I don't know why there are so many wires running to the positive terminal, I've always wondered why this is but anyway has anyone had this happen or have an idea how to start solving this?
Fried Wires (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter PanhandleFJ
- Start date
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The original cruiser, new out of the factory only had one terminal connected to the battery + post. All those extra wires you mentioned were installed by the previous owner — and the ensuing electrical mayhem usually comes along for the ride.
You're going to be on your own with previous owner hack wiring.
You're going to be on your own with previous owner hack wiring.
i've never had that happen. but i think i'd start by tracing each wire off the the + terminal, individually. if it's hack $h!t powering some non oem stuff, rework it or eliminate the whole shebang. you should be able to roust up a factory wiring schematic some place in mud here.
or did someone sabotage you n put in a lucas system n you let the magic smoke out
or did someone sabotage you n put in a lucas system n you let the magic smoke out
g-man
SILVER Star
fusible links?
LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
Take a pic of the positive terminal and attached wires? It would help to see what you're working with.
Yes. What year and model?
- Thread starter
- #8
LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
Wow, holy sh*t, that's terrible. It looks like all the wires except the heavy starter wire are completely toast. I'd suggest removing all of those and finding out where each of them go. My 60 only has two wires coming from the positive terminal, one (heavy) for the starter and one light (connected with a fusible link) for everything else. I am not sure how 62 wiring differs from 60 wiring, but I am sure that is a textbook example of terrible automotive wiring.
- Thread starter
- #10
- Thread starter
- #11
I crawled around the under carriage and couldn't see any arcs or anything suspicious. I'm going to replace those and see what i can track down.
Am I missing something. Cause that just looks like your fusible links did what they’re suppose to do. And I’m fairly sure that’s the factory set up. There should be 5 fusible links total, two for ignition, one for the alternator, one for the headlights and one for the EFI relay. Time to reach out to @Coolerman and get them rebuilt. But you should track down what caused the high amp draw to burn them up before you end up getting them rebuilt twice.
You can simply replacement them with regular wires btw. They’re fusible links, they’re designed to slowly burn up if the amperage is greatly than what they’re rated for. They’re there to keep the rest of your harness from melting. Basically they’re thinner wires that “melt” when there’s a excess load on them. The length of the link plays a part as well from my understanding.
You’ll have to figure out what and if something cause excess amperage draw or if that simply being 30+ years old caused it. They’re no longer available from Toyota, you can find used ones but again 30+ years old.
- Thread starter
- #14
Thanks a bunch. So fusible links must not be on the shelf at the auto parts store.
I'll contact your contact.
You can get fusible link wire and rebuild them yourself, but I priced out doing it myself and after buying all the components and everything, it was just cheaper to have Coolerman do them.
