2009 LX 570 ACH Pump Not Working after picking up from Body Shop (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Apr 2, 2021
Threads
2
Messages
58
Location
chicago
Hello Everyone. I've found this site very reliable and helpful over the past couple of years. Now I'm seeking advice on how to handle my situation regarding my 2009 LX 570.

I've lost power to the AHC pump 175 miles or 3 days after getting vehicle back.

Important notes regarding my vehicle: Average 300 plus miles a day for the past 2 years or 200,000 miles over the past two years. I've had one issue with the vehicle in all 11 years. Lexus LX 570 is a beast.

Notes about my issue:

-Rear-ended on the freeway in poor icy driving conditions 6 weeks ago whereby my vehicle sat dormant during 40 days to repair. Primary Impact Rear of vehicle sliding into wall.

-Last Monday, I finally was able to accept the vehicle after 42 days to repair. Driving home, I noticed a lot of looseness in the steering and the ACH check 4 wheel alert popped up.

-I removed one of the AHC fuses on the passenger side fuse box before a long trip home in order to protect the pump. Haven't been able to get the pump to work since.


I've driven this vehicle very hard over the past 2 years. It doesn't break. I contacted the insurance company that was paying for everything and I was advised they will cover the breakdown only if the mechanic will announce the accident played a role in this defect.

Whatever my issue may be, I know the accident resulting in my car sitting dormant would be the straw that broke the camels back. Are there not a hundred ways to articulate how an accident might have resulted in the straw that breaks the camels back?

Both the body shop and the lexus dealership have told me over the phone there is no correlation between this happenings and the accident. I just find this hard to believe.

Couldn't something that was about to break due to 285,000 miles become exacerbated by a major rear impact collision and gradually break during those 175 miles I drove after picking up the vehicle?
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Any thoughts?

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Last edited:
Solution
You're making solid progress! Hang in there as I think you're getting to the root of the issues. I believe there to be 2:

1) First thing I would do is address the firm items. A single broken height sensor/misadjusted sensor is enough to cause all the issues you've described. I wouldn't jump to conclusions that the AHC ECU is faulty as that's exceedingly rare. Replace the broken arm but also have them evaluate whether the potentiometer (arm angle sensor) has been damaged/bent, or anything else in the vicinity. They'll need to properly setup the calibration on the new arm/angle sensor for the system to work properly. This last calibration - there's very real potential for the tech to not have enough skill in this area and you...
Body shop should have found the broken arm then.
yes, but most body shops would not be educated on how AHC works. Perhaps the biggest downside of the system is that it is not installed on very many vehicles, so the typical mechanic won't be familiar with it.
 
You're making solid progress! Hang in there as I think you're getting to the root of the issues. I believe there to be 2:

1) First thing I would do is address the firm items. A single broken height sensor/misadjusted sensor is enough to cause all the issues you've described. I wouldn't jump to conclusions that the AHC ECU is faulty as that's exceedingly rare. Replace the broken arm but also have them evaluate whether the potentiometer (arm angle sensor) has been damaged/bent, or anything else in the vicinity. They'll need to properly setup the calibration on the new arm/angle sensor for the system to work properly. This last calibration - there's very real potential for the tech to not have enough skill in this area and you may need to step in with the hive minds help. @radman is a master at this.

2) Separately for your electrical gremlins, I suspect with the amount of time the car was in the body shop, they've killed your battery by letting it deeply drain. That can cause all sorts of non-descript issues. Get a replacement battery before chasing anything else.
 
You're making solid progress! Hang in there as I think you're getting to the root of the issues. I believe there to be 2:

1) First thing I would do is address the firm items. A single broken height sensor/misadjusted sensor is enough to cause all the issues you've described. I wouldn't jump to conclusions that the AHC ECU is faulty as that's exceedingly rare. Replace the broken arm but also have them evaluate whether the potentiometer (arm angle sensor) has been damaged/bent, or anything else in the vicinity. They'll need to properly setup the calibration on the new arm/angle sensor for the system to work properly. This last calibration - there's very real potential for the tech to not have enough skill in this area and you may need to step in with the hive minds help. @radman is a master at this.

2) Separately for your electrical gremlins, I suspect with the amount of time the car was in the body shop, they've killed your battery by letting it deeply drain. That can cause all sorts of non-descript issues. Get a replacement battery before chasing anything else.
He needs to be adroit because it's like trying to work a compass x10?

Is a new system just as difficult to install, i.e. requiring adroit nature.
 
Solution
You're making solid progress! Hang in there as I think you're getting to the root of the issues. I believe there to be 2:

1) First thing I would do is address the firm items. A single broken height sensor/misadjusted sensor is enough to cause all the issues you've described. I wouldn't jump to conclusions that the AHC ECU is faulty as that's exceedingly rare. Replace the broken arm but also have them evaluate whether the potentiometer (arm angle sensor) has been damaged/bent, or anything else in the vicinity. They'll need to properly setup the calibration on the new arm/angle sensor for the system to work properly. This last calibration - there's very real potential for the tech to not have enough skill in this area and you may need to step in with the hive minds help. @radman is a master at this.

2) Separately for your electrical gremlins, I suspect with the amount of time the car was in the body shop, they've killed your battery by letting it deeply drain. That can cause all sorts of non-descript issues. Get a replacement battery before chasing anything else.
Ah, very cool @radman is from Houston. I lived there for 30 years. Maybe I know him :)
 
Have you verified the broken sensor arm? Could you post a picture? I'd love to see how one of those could be broken, without there being considerable damage around it. Wonder if during the collision something grabbed it as it went by and yanked on it. They are attached between the frame and upper control arm in all 4 spots. The two rear arms don't look identical, but the two front arms do. You can see the front arms from outside the wheel well, Just look over the top of the tire. The rear you have to climb under, but don't have to remove anything.

I also second the replacing the arm (also could check ebay for replacement part) and changing battery before doing anything else. If you are only getting 10v off the battery, it's probably pretty much toast. You could try just charging it, but if you drove for 2 hours and it was still 10v after that, doesn't sound good.
 
Get ready.

Lexus completed inspection with adjuster and they are replacing 4 height sensors $825 in labor for 3 grand total.
It just kills me that the body shop told me it was impossible to have anything to do with the accident without even getting underneath the car.
But, man I could have been stuck with that, well at least one sensor, but now I'm coming out ahead I think. Well almost as I lost another weeks income.
 
Have you verified the broken sensor arm? Could you post a picture? I'd love to see how one of those could be broken, without there being considerable damage around it. Wonder if during the collision something grabbed it as it went by and yanked on it. They are attached between the frame and upper control arm in all 4 spots. The two rear arms don't look identical, but the two front arms do. You can see the front arms from outside the wheel well, Just look over the top of the tire. The rear you have to climb under, but don't have to remove anything.

I also second the replacing the arm (also could check ebay for replacement part) and changing battery before doing anything else. If you are only getting 10v off the battery, it's probably pretty much toast. You could try just charging it, but if you drove for 2 hours and it was still 10v after that, doesn't sound good.
So when you say I'm only getting 10v, the amount i'm getting is measured with engine off versus the 13.9 i'm getting with engine on? I know very novice question. I'll try to get a pic of it.
 
Get ready.

Lexus completed inspection with adjuster and they are replacing 4 height sensors $825 in labor for 3 grand total.
It just kills me that the body shop told me it was impossible to have anything to do with the accident without even getting underneath the car.
But, man I could have been stuck with that, well at least one sensor, but now I'm coming out ahead I think. Well almost as I lost another weeks income.
So insurance is paying for this?
 
Yes, When you measure with truck running, you are essentially measuring the alternators output. When you measure with truck not running, you are measuring the batteries output.
 
Yes, When you measure with truck running, you are essentially measuring the alternators output. When you measure with truck not running, you are measuring the batteries

I'm wondering if I should just suck it up and get an Interstate Battery and not the crappy autozone even though it's under warranty.
 
Also, the "question" format for a post is very strange. I guess the idea is the correct answer can be upvoted to the top so people don't have to read all the rest of the posts?
 
I'm wondering if I should just suck it up and get an Interstate Battery and not the crappy autozone even though it's under warranty.
Yes, When you measure with truck running, you are essentially measuring the alternators output. When you measure with truck not running, you are measuring the batteries output.
Wait, does it matter If I have a couple amps, sound processor drawing off that measurement? Is that to be taken into consideration with the 10 i'm getting or does 10 just suck no matter what.
 
Also, the "question" format for a post is very strange. I guess the idea is the correct answer can be upvoted to the top so people don't have to read all the rest of the posts?
Yeah, sorry. I've been coming here for a couple years, but I've never had a problem before and not a lot I can share or add so this was my first post ever.
Man, I'm glad I did.
 
Wait, does it matter If I have a couple amps, sound processor drawing off that measurement? Is that to be taken into consideration with the 10 i'm getting or does 10 just suck no matter what.
10v is a dead battery. it may not start next time you try. it's very low.
 
Group 27f from interstate batteries at Costco. 93 dollars. It has a free three year replacement. Best warranty in the business
Nice! You're timing is great as I was going to ask the dealer to give me a deal on a new battery until I saw what some of the dealers are charging. If I leave the stereo on for 15 minutes without engine running, won't crank, and this even before the accident business.
 

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