PWR button is not working......... (1 Viewer)

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Today I noticed my '97 fzj80 was taking off sluggishly and looked at the dash and noticed the PWR light was off even when the button on the console was depressed in as ON. I turned it back on and off a few times at a red light but the PWR light on the dash didn't come on at all and the truck moved sluggishly from stops at red lights. I also noticed a slight burning smell when I alighted the vehicle. I recall a bunch of soda had spilled on to the middle console last week and I had cleaned it up, but never did mess with the button itself. So it is still a bit sticky. Could it have shorted? Is there a fuse for it? Although, I checked on a fuse diagram online and didn't see any that is dedicated for PWR and 2nd START. I did get rear brakes done last week, but that couldn't in any way affect the PWR. Has anyone seen this behavior? Could someone please tell me what might have gone wrong? Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Sounds like 2nd start button is on rather than the PWR. Don't be fooled it adds 0 PWR anyways lol
 
Sounds like 2nd start button is on rather than the PWR. Don't be fooled it adds 0 PWR anyways lol
Could it be that the 2nd Start button is on? I turned that on and off and the light comes on for it in the dash as usual but the PWR button has no effect at all.

As for the PWR button, are you sure? In my truck, I can feel the sluggish response if the PWR is off, that's how I knew something was off and looked at the dash. With the button depressed, it shifts with some vigor and makes the truck quicker. Enough to be noticeable.
 
I don't understand how you think the power button makes it take off faster. It only changes the shift points so that it holds gears longer before shifting for towing. If you're taking off, you can get the same effect by pushing the gas pedal all the way down.
 
I don't understand how you think the power button makes it take off faster. It only changes the shift points so that it holds gears longer before shifting for towing. If you're taking off, you can get the same effect by pushing the gas pedal all the way down.
Maybe it doesn't really take off faster but it feels the behemoth goes a bit better, as if I am shifting it myself from low gears. The longer shift points make it a bit more vigorous, as one would expect. But my problem now is that whatever it does, is not doing it, and there is a distinct burning smell after a bit of a drive. Something is definitely off. Only thing that was done to it recently was a front wheel bearing change and rear brakes. Nothing that should have put the PWR button out of commission, I would think.
 
You are going to have to remove the shifter console and look under. Mine came unplugged once, easy fix.

Plus you need to finish cleaning up that sugary drink you spilled as it will cause rust under there.
 
You are going to have to remove the shifter console and look under. Mine came unplugged once, easy fix.

Plus you need to finish cleaning up that sugary drink you spilled as it will cause rust under there.

^^^^^

This.

And as others have noted: The 'Pwr' button does NOTHING to increase off the line acceleration. It ONLY holds the shift points longer.

Any perception otherwise is just some form of wishful thinking or confirmation bias.
 
The Power button, errr.... turbo, makes my truck more awesome. You guys and your facts. :rofl:
 
Yes, you need to clean not only under the console, but may need to take apart the switch itself.
When I first bought my truck the PWR button did nothing as well. I found old, dried coffee spilled under the console. I had to disassemble the switch and clean the contacts to get it working again.
 
If the "2nd" start is activated it would cause it to seem like a lack of power when taking off because it would be starting in 2nd gear. That button is "momentary" though and normally resets every time the truck is turned off. Agreed that you need to take the 4 Phillips screws out to get under the front console area and check the connection and plug it back in if it's unplugged or unplug it and see if it eliminates the 2nd gear start and clean things up.
 
isopropyl alcohol 99%... Is what is used to clean electronics and displace water in them. I soak all the gunky funky switches in that and work them. You often still need to use a toothbrush on the internals if you cooked the stuff in there. Then when done you need to reapply the lubricants to the moving parts and contact areas so they don't go back to being useless from future. I use dielectric grease, some use white lithium.
 
Yes, you need to clean not only under the console, but may need to take apart the switch itself.
When I first bought my truck the PWR button did nothing as well. I found old, dried coffee spilled under the console. I had to disassemble the switch and clean the contacts to get it working again.

Bingo - we use cheap soda as a concrete cure - retardant when we do exposed aggregate finish.

It’s pretty nasty stuff, despite how much I like a very cold 8oz Coke can (perfect for a powerslug the 1st 1/2, 2-3 swallows after) - just like I did the bigger bottles decades ago.

Anyhow, pull the console - spraybottle the carpet & get it clean, pull the switch & baptize the whole thing in warm water & blow-dry w/ either compressed air or your/ the :princess: hair-dryer & get it fully dry.

Same for the harness socket - toss some dielectric grease in it for good measure since you’re there anyhow.

If you grease each socket you touch, you finally end up w/ a 80 like mine greased in all of them - aside from say a few in the underhood panel, I bet I’ve grease near every oxidizable junction.
 

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