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I’m going to try and jump the CDL actuator using 12v from the battery, just want to make sure this is the correct plug (one on top that goes into actuator) to jump/ ground
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Not surprising at all. When the sensor is working properly it's ultimately establishing a ground connection. Not connecting is just a floating voltage. There is no electrical connection between the 4LOW Position sensor which activates the actuator and the sensor which which lights the dash lamp so switching between high and low range will make no difference.Is it strange that I'm getting 11.5v power to that switch/sensor in both high and low range, yet nothing occurs?
Thanks for the feeback Phil, much appreciated.Not surprising at all. When the sensor is working properly it's ultimately establishing a ground connection. Not connecting is just a floating voltage. There is no electrical connection between the 4LOW Position sensor which activates the actuator and the sensor which which lights the dash lamp so switching between high and low range will make no difference.
From my observation you more than likely have at least two problems. First if would replace or refurbish the CDL sensor switch on the front of the transfer case. Second you may need to replace the 4LOW Position sensor (same part number) or get a working dash switch so you can test to hear is the CDL computer clicks and then hear the actuator function. In your current setup you can test the 4LOW circuit by pulling the plug, shorting the terminals and listen for the relays in the CDL computer to click.
After that is all properly working then attack the front and rear lockers. Finally make sure through better testing the the viscous coupler is not seized.
Bottom line is you need to progressively step through each of the subsystems in logical progression. What you have documented is just a random bunch of guessing and not properly testing. Example being the dash light second test getting the proper result.
You need to be more specific in your descriptions. "CDL Connector" is ambiguous, there are three connectors for sensor switches and one connector to power/control the actuator itself. What I suggested was taking the connector off the 4LOW sensor and and shorting the terminals on the wiring harness. That should activate the relays in the CDL computer. If not, there is a wiring problem or a computer issue.I have yet to hear the CDL relay click or make any noise, even after I shorted the CDL connector at the tcase with a paper clip, but the lights did turn on the dash.
Yes, all that is correct, but ignore that for now. Concentrate on the CDL functionality first.Isn't is strange that the lockers engage yet the CDL light does not engage? (Shouldn't the lockers only engage if the CDL light on the dash is ilumunated?
I should probably invest in the FSM if I am to move any further. I am unclear on the locations/ functions of all the sensors on the tcase, besides the sensor/ plug at the front of the case on the top- that is the CDL actuator sensor/ controlled if I’m not mistaken.You need to be more specific in your descriptions. "CDL Connector" is ambiguous, there are three connectors for sensor switches and one connector to power/control the actuator itself. What I suggested was taking the connector off the 4LOW sensor and and shorting the terminals on the wiring harness. That should activate the relays in the CDL computer. If not, there is a wiring problem or a computer issue.
Yes, all that is correct, but ignore that for now. Concentrate on the CDL functionality first.
Because you know the front and rear lockers seem to be functioning properly most likely that computer, located in the passenger kick panel is working properly. To isolate it from CDL issues I would disconnect the plug to it until the rest of the system/CDL is working. That just eliminates one possible variable.
Much appreciated. I should have found this sooner.A electronic version (PDF) of the FSM and EWD - Electrical Wiring Diagram are available in the "Resorces" tab at the top of the page:
FSM - 1994 FZJ80 EWD
1994 FZJ80 Electronic Wiring Diagram (schematics). This file is bookmarked exactly the way the hardcover version is laid out. You're welcome.forum.ih8mud.com
Are you asking if I reinstalled the CDL indicator switch wire harness/ connector into the CDL switch plug at the case side? Or are you asking if I reinstalled the old plug that was in the CDL dash switch (unused harness in '93-'97)?2. Did you re-install the jumper plug in the connector for the CDL dash switch?
Thanks for the reply, would be a shame if it was truly the actuator but I know of someone who has a few for sale for $200 used in Sacramento. I'll consider buying a new one if I can't fix mine.It seems you may have a bad CDL actuator. They can be stuck locked or unlocked from my research. I chased the same things you have one at a time, only to find a bad actuator. The vent hose on top was off and rotten letting moisture in when I did a deep water crossing. Ruined the inside. New they are very pricey, you can attempt a rebuild by cleaning up or regluing magnets etc or trying used. I found 2 used ones for about $200 no guarantee. I managed to find a new one in the United Arab Emirates for about $520 shipped, got it in 4 days. In the USA, I only found 3, all over $800 not including shipping. Good luck hopefully you get it working.
The jumper plugged into the unused harness. You would've had to remove it when you subbed in the hazard switch. Without a switch, that jumper needs to be in place or it won't toggle the CDL relay for it to unlock.Are you asking if I reinstalled the CDL indicator switch wire harness/ connector into the CDL switch plug at the case side? Or are you asking if I reinstalled the old plug that was in the CDL dash switch (unused harness in '93-'97)?
I just talked to Christo on the phone, my CDL dash switch should be coming in the mail today. He also mentioned my symptoms sound like a mechanical failure inside the actuator or that my tcase is bound up, yet it's sitting on jack stands in my garage. Could an actuator fail and only lock the CDL and not be able to unlock it?
Landcrshr! You are correct!The jumper plugged into the unused harness. You would've had to remove it when you subbed in the hazard switch. Without a switch, that jumper needs to be in place or it won't toggle the CDL relay for it to unlock.
Glad you got it all sorted out!Landcrshr! You are correct!
Is there an award for the biggest idiot of the week? Cause I’d definitely deserve it. Fixed all my problems with 3 new sensors and then finally I plugged that jumper plug back into the CDL button harness. CDL engages and disengages and all light work. Funny how all 3 sensors went bad.
I can’t believe I missed this but I learned a few things on the way.
Anyways, I took it out wheeling yesterday and it performed awesome, but the rear tubs/ AOE bumper need more trimming to fit the 37” mud grapplers.
The suspension worked well. I need bump stops/ limit straps because right now the shocks do all that work. Front 850j springs stayed in place and full flex, same with the rear 863j.
And I think I broke a birfield! So time for a knuckle rebuild/ axle fix.
I’m considering upgrading the shafts with RCV or just carry spares for the time being. Anyone have issues with the RCVs on 37s?
Thank you all for your helpful responses!