LJ70- 2LTE Repair Adventure! :D (1 Viewer)

[danktank]

Ah Yesssss, holiday has finally arrived.
Time to tackle some of the problem on this old boi (My dad's car).

By no means I am a professional, but I believe I can do better than our local mechanics.
Had some previous experiences doing repair works and this forum has given me further confidence to do it myself.
Safety is of course the number one priority.
An advance apology for any mistake made during this adventure as am still learning. :b
Any tips and feedback will be great!

The things that I will try to tackle is listed below.
The list below is a result of accumulation over the years.
Some are either unsolvable after multiple trips to mechanics while some other are done improperly and causes more issues.
Other than that is all minor stuffs. Might do some upgrade? Haha
Perhaps this car is just too odd in my country? :b
Either way, it has cost too much time and money if continue to let them do it.

Listed by priority
Engine misfiring
Alternator inconsistent charging
Transmission (Automatic, A30-43LE) hard to shift to high gear
Rear trailing arm bushing failure
Power locking hub not working
Differential Lock not working
Speedometer jumping around
Interior cleaning
The list might be added on later.

 

[danktank]

Engine Misfiring
30/3/2020
It has been sometime since it is misfiring (since October 2020).
It vibrates badly and doesn't go away with varying RPM.
The check engine light was on and the code shown by self diagnostic of the ECU indicated a correction resistor fault.
Sure enough after inspection, the wire connecting the resistor has broken off due to hardening via old age...
As per @GTSSportsCoupe recommendation, I will solder a variable resistor some time soon.
As for now, I have trimmed the wire and use spade connector to connect the resistor but it keep falling off tho. :b
The check engine light goes away and no more fault codes. However, the engine still misfires while idle.
Mechanics suspect fuel pump and ECU, which will cost a bomb to replace
One of the mechanics also suspect engine needs a top overhaul. Will verify it later.
Will try to diagnose and fix it for now.

Primed the fuel system with the primer pump on fuel filter. It is OK, rock hard. Still misfires.
Checked connections to fuel pump, all OK, except for the correction resistor mentioned earlier and also the engine speed sensor connector lost the locking tab.
Checked injection pump position on T-Case, slightly advanced, but OK.
Checked injector
Checked timing belt: COMPLETELY LOOSE HAHAHAHAHAHA. It can literally slide off the pulley with little to no force...

Timing belt was replaced in 2018 by one of the mechanics.
Current one has 25k KM on the clock
Will try to reinstall it (Wasn't tensioned enough) If can't will replace with a new one. Any recommendation?
Will also replace the belt case as previously the harmonic balancer failed and gnawed a big hole.

Also, quick question: Does Tsubaki or Unitta or others makes the OEM Timing belt for the 2LTE?
Checked online for the same part number and all I could find is Toyota belts manufactured by Unitta... Amayama also shows Unitta belts only...
The one inside the engine now is a Tsubaki one, not sure if it is a counterfeit one or old stock... (a common problem here in M'Sia)
Counterfeit stuffs fails early and fails HARD. One of the reasons why our country is number one in number of road accidents in the world.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Listed by priority
Engine misfiring
Alternator inconsistent charging
Transmission (Automatic, A30-43LE) hard to shift to high gear
Rear trailing arm bushing failure
Power locking hub not working
Differential Lock not working
Speedometer jumping around
Interior cleaning
The list might be added on later.

Sounds like quite the project!

Most of those items are results of previous owners not keeping up with maintenance and repair as they should be. After nearly 10 years of ownership and repair/maintenance of my LJ78, here are my thoughts for each of your problems.

Please download and read/use the manuals. Help! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/help.1191714/post-12892663


Engine misfiring

- Does the engine misfire only at idle and even when warm? If so, please have the injectors tested - likely they are due for rebuild/replace. Does the engine only misfire at startup when it has not been run for a while? This is more likely due to an air leak somewhere. Most often the primer pump is the culprit, but also check all the soft fuel line clamps/hoses and replace/repair as necessary. Misfire when the engine has just been started (cold) can also be due to a poor functioning glow circuit - they're easy to test, just ask if you need to know how.

Alternator inconsistent charging

- Check connectors for tightness at alternator and battery. Maybe it's due for a rebuild. Have an auto electric store test and rebuild. Leave the vacuum pump part alone though!

Transmission (Automatic, A30-43LE) hard to shift to high gear

- Many people neglect these poor transmissions. Fortunately they're really tough. I highly recommend a full flush (not just the pan). This is easy to do yourself, I can explain if you're interested. You need about 15l of new Dex/Merc ATF. I use Valvoline. When people leave dirty fluid in these too long, I have seen the solenoids fail. Fortunately they're easy to replace once you're removed the pan. Also check the O/D button to make sure it's working (test with ohm meter at connector)

Rear trailing arm bushing failure

- These can be pressed out and replaced. Use Megazip to find the part number, and buy where ever you want. You need at least a 10 ton press to do this job.

Power locking hub not working

- Get spindles/hubs/freewheel assembly from an older landcruiser (1978+ 40 or 60 series) or toyota solid axle pick-up and convert to manual hubs

Differential Lock not working

- Usually this is from water leaking into the motor and causing damage. It could also be the indicator switch is not working, and the differential is actually locking. There are threads for the 80 series on how to diagnose these problems. I have not had to do it on mine yet as it still works good.

Speedometer jumping around

- This is because the speedo cable needs to be lubricated or replaced. I removed my gauge cluster and sprayed lubricant into the speedo cable sheath, and it fixed this problem for me.

 

[danktank]

Engine Misfire Update (31/3/2021):
Thanks for the Tips and reply, it is much appreciated.
Have reinstalled timing belt this morning according to the manual's instruction and re tightened the timing pulleys and idlers to spec with a torque wrench.
The belt might be a little bit stretched as the timing mark for injection pump pulley is off by a lil bit. Will consider to replace the timing belt and idlers.
Did some further research online, the current belt is of an old SKU. Probably old stock from more than 5 years ago.
Engine runs much better now and the distinct diesel knock returned. Previously was sounding weak like a lawn mower with a briggs and stratton.
However, it still misfires upon cold start. Haven't brought it up to operating temp just yet as have yet to put everything together since am still on the hunt for a belt-case.
I just put the crank pulley back on and test started it with no accesories belt attached (water pump, alternator, PS pump, A/C compressor are all disengaged)

Does the engine misfire only at idle and even when warm? If so, please have the injectors tested - likely they are due for rebuild/replace

Will check if still misfire after putting everything together and raising it to operating temp.
All four injectors was reconditioned by a mechanic last year.
If still misfires after warming up, will crack the injector lines to purge air.
If it still misfires after warming up and purging, I will pull the injectors out and bring to a proper certified diesel pump service center for testing and servicing just in case if it wasn't done properly by the mechanic.

Does the engine only misfire at startup when it has not been run for a while? This is more likely due to an air leak somewhere.

Nope, misfires everytime starting it cold since October when the problem started. The car is used frequently
Will still inspect all fuel lines and primer pump some time soon.

Misfire when the engine has just been started (cold) can also be due to a poor functioning glow circuit - they're easy to test, just ask if you need to know how.

The car is running on manual glow and is working. Plugs are genuine HKT's. All 3 plugs are receiving +/-12V and each plugs resistance is around +/- 1 Ohm.

Someone previously knackered the factory auto glow wiring and cut it's wires somewhere along the loom.
They replaced it with a timer relay instead. It did not have a engine temperature switch so the glow plug engaged every time when ever the car is restarted even though engine is warm.
It end up burning up all the plugs and created to a dead short. It didn't have any working plugs for a long time until last year.
Always painful to start before conversion to manual glow.

There are only 3 working plug.
One of the plug (Cylinder no.4) snapped off by someone working on the plugs previously and is shorted to ground.
The previous person replacing the plugs has used counterfeit HKT plugs and the metal was very soft.
There isn't much space to work around to remove the snapped plug out since the intake manifold and EGR is in the way.
More over, since the space is so tight, I cant drill it out either as the glow plug material too soft and might risk damaging the cylinder head.
It has been stuck there for a long time (years, maybe?) with no problem. there are no gas leaks there.
Will only try to remove it if the cylinder head is out.

The car was maintained by various mechanic over the years before me so not really sure who did what.



Alternator inconsistent charging

- Check connectors for tightness at alternator and battery. Maybe it's due for a rebuild. Have an auto electric store test and rebuild. Leave the vacuum pump part alone though!

Battery is a new one. (Varta, 680CCA, 90AH, AGM Battery, got it from an authorised Varta dealer)
Connectors are tight.
The alternator was rebuilt last year.
Previously it wasn't charging at all and battery light was on.
It was repaired by a local automotive electrician.
He said the regulator was fried and needed a rebuild. (brushes, stator rewinding and regulator replacement.)
However, after the repair, the alternator did not perform well at all. The voltage output fluctuates a lot and regularly dip below 12V. Battery is always undercharged.
Belt was tight and engine RPM was stable.
Probably wasn't rebuilt properly or has some other issues.
Didn't went back to him as had bad experience with him previously.

Will check the wiring and do the voltage drop test before tearing out the alternator again to see what's wrong.
Will bring it to a reputable shop this time.

 

[danktank]

Some photos... :3

Belt case and gasket is completely shot.

Correction resistor temporary fix with choc block, glass fiber shielded wire and spade connector.
Did not have heat resistant wire. :b

Belt reinstalled

Manual Glow Switch, connected to relay(in engine bay).

Battery

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Sounds like you're on the right track with it. I think your one bad glow plug will definitely impact start-up and give misfiring for a bit on one cylinder until it warms up. If you want a smooth start-up, you'll need to replace the broken glow plug for sure. It's very noticeable on a 4 cylinder when one cylinder is not working for a bit.

 

[danktank]

Engine Misfire Update(01/04/2021)

Have brought the engine up to temperature after temporarily putting the alternator belt back.
Still on the hunt for a belt case...
It no longer misfires (Yay!), however it still shudders from time to time.
Will solder a potentiometer to the correction resistor lead before continue with further action since the spade connector just wasn't holding tight enough...

Which kind of potentiometer should be used?
Am planning to use type 3296 Precision trimpot (attached photo) so can get some really fine adjustments but is unsure if it is suitable.
(2k Ohm for cam angle correction resistor, 5k Ohm for volume correction resistor)

Also, while test running the engine, I notice smoke coming out from the PCV vent hose (It was disconnected at the moment as the air filter box is not installed.).
The smoke is somewhat blue in colour (diesel smoke?) and the amount is like a newly lit cigarrete.
I understand these engines have blow-by, but how much smoke is considered too much?

Still accumulating experience haha...

 

[danktank]

Alternator Inconsistent charging update (01/04/2021):

Have removed all connection to alternator and sprayed all contact surface down with contact cleaner.
Scrubbed it real good.
Then plugged everything back in and tighten the alternator main cable down to spec.

Have checked voltage at the 3pin barrel plug when engine is off after cleaning.
Battery is at 12.01v
Sense pin is reading 11.91v (key off or on)
Ign pin is reading 11.83v (key on only)
Lamp pin is reading 11.74v (key on only)
Alternator positive post reads 12.00v(key off or on)

When engine is on,
at idle (750RPM) ,
Voltage drop between alternator positive post and battery positive post is 0.50 v
Battery reading 12.31 v
Alternator output is reading 12.82 V

At 2000 RPM hold,
Voltage drop between alternator positive post and battery positive post is 1.70 v
Battery reading 13.10 v
Alternator output is reading 14.50 v

Voltage drop test is out of spec completely....

Will now check for possible fusible link failure.

Edit: checked just now.
Glowing fusible link anyone?
Didn't take a photo as rushed to shut the engine off.
It was the alternator fusible link.
WIRING IS A MESS AT THE BATTERY POSITIVE POST

Removed every add on (spotlight, aux radiator fan) for now
Temporarily substituted the fusible links with normal wires.
Fusible link failed due to corrosion...
It is not the original factory ones.

The factory fusible links comes with pre-crimped connectors, which makes it troublesome to replace.
The previous person resorted to crimp connectors which was improperly crimped...
Feel like it will be a fire hazard.

Is it possible to replace fusible links with midi fuses?

If possible, would want to install one of these main fuse box found in VW Jettas and Golfs which will tidy up the wiring by a lot and also simplify repairs.

Edit 2:
Redid the test after replacing the failed fusible links with normal wires.
Voltage drop across the wire is 0.01 v at idle, 0.05 v at 2000rpm hold.

When engine is on,
at idle (750RPM) ,
Voltage drop between alternator positive post and battery positive post is 0.20 v
Battery reading 12.52 v
Alternator output is reading 12.71 v

At 2000 RPM hold,
Voltage drop between alternator positive post and battery positive post is 0.70 v
Battery reading 13.20 v
Alternator output is reading 13.90 v


Voltage drop is still out of spec
Alternator is under performing.

Will run an external cable from alternator output straight to battery before further testing.
What size should the cable be?

High chance of needing to pull the alternator out...
Is there anything to watch out for when doing so?

Also, can someone send a picture of the original wire arrangement at the positive battery terminal?


Any help and suggestion is much appreciated.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Engine Misfire Update(01/04/2021)

Have brought the engine up to temperature after temporarily putting the alternator belt back.
Still on the hunt for a belt case...
It no longer misfires (Yay!), however it still shudders from time to time.
Will solder a potentiometer to the correction resistor lead before continue with further action since the spade connector just wasn't holding tight enough...

Which kind of potentiometer should be used?
Am planning to use type 3296 Precision trimpot (attached photo) so can get some really fine adjustments but is unsure if it is suitable.
(2k Ohm for cam angle correction resistor, 5k Ohm for volume correction resistor)
View attachment 2632467
Also, while test running the engine, I notice smoke coming out from the PCV vent hose (It was disconnected at the moment as the air filter box is not installed.).
The smoke is somewhat blue in colour (diesel smoke?) and the amount is like a newly lit cigarrete.
I understand these engines have blow-by, but how much smoke is considered too much?

Still accumulating experience haha...

Just so you know, a bad resistor will just cause the ECU to go to a default mode. This will loose or gain a little power/knock, but will not cause misfiring issues.

Ideally the timing correction resistor should be 1.5kOhm and the fuel correction resistor should be 2.5kOhm. However 2k and 2.5k will be easier to find.

I used multi-turn sealed panel mount style. The type you've shown work too, but they are small and harder to use. Here is what I've used:

Alternator Inconsistent charging update (01/04/2021):

Have removed all connection to alternator and sprayed all contact surface down with contact cleaner.
Scrubbed it real good.
Then plugged everything back in and tighten the alternator main cable down to spec.

Have checked voltage at the 3pin barrel plug when engine is off after cleaning.
Battery is at 12.01v
Sense pin is reading 11.91v (key off or on)
Ign pin is reading 11.83v (key on only)
Lamp pin is reading 11.74v (key on only)
Alternator positive post reads 12.00v(key off or on)

When engine is on,
at idle (750RPM) ,
Voltage drop between alternator positive post and battery positive post is 0.50 v
Battery reading 12.31 v
Alternator output is reading 12.82 V

At 2000 RPM hold,
Voltage drop between alternator positive post and battery positive post is 1.70 v
Battery reading 13.10 v
Alternator output is reading 14.50 v

Voltage drop test is out of spec completely....

Will now check for possible fusible link failure.

Edit: checked just now.
Glowing fusible link anyone?
Didn't take a photo as rushed to shut the engine off.
It was the alternator fusible link.
WIRING IS A MESS AT THE BATTERY POSITIVE POST

View attachment 2632483
Removed every add on (spotlight, aux radiator fan) for now
Temporarily substituted the fusible links with normal wires.
Fusible link failed due to corrosion...
It is not the original factory ones.

The factory fusible links comes with pre-crimped connectors, which makes it troublesome to replace.
The previous person resorted to crimp connectors which was improperly crimped...
Feel like it will be a fire hazard.

Is it possible to replace fusible links with midi fuses?

If possible, would want to install one of these main fuse box found in VW Jettas and Golfs which will tidy up the wiring by a lot and also simplify repairs.

View attachment 2632486

Edit 2:
Redid the test after replacing the failed fusible links with normal wires.
Voltage drop across the wire is 0.01 v at idle, 0.05 v at 2000rpm hold.

When engine is on,
at idle (750RPM) ,
Voltage drop between alternator positive post and battery positive post is 0.20 v
Battery reading 12.52 v
Alternator output is reading 12.71 v

At 2000 RPM hold,
Voltage drop between alternator positive post and battery positive post is 0.70 v
Battery reading 13.20 v
Alternator output is reading 13.90 v


Voltage drop is still out of spec
Alternator is under performing.

Will run an external cable from alternator output straight to battery before further testing.
What size should the cable be?

High chance of needing to pull the alternator out...
Is there anything to watch out for when doing so?

Also, can someone send a picture of the original wire arrangement at the positive battery terminal?


Any help and suggestion is much appreciated.

Your alternator sounds like it's working a bit, but not as well as it should be. Try your test again after driving for a while, as maybe the battery is still a bit low and loading the alternator heavily from before you worked on your wiring.

The stock 55Amp alternator on these trucks is relatively weak even when working well. I upgraded to a larger 70Amp alternator from a different model 2LTE. It's a bolt on upgrade, and made a big difference I found.

If you look at the manuals link I posted above, there are electric schematics as the last document of the post. One of the guys here translated them from Japanese to English. You could refer to them as you try to sort out the wiring at your battery.

Pulling the alternator out for another test (with different auto electric place) might be a good idea. It is a fair amount of work to get out, as you have to remove the air cleaner, and A/C compressor, plus belts. I find the tensioning system for the alternator hard to get at (especially bottom bolt of alternator). You have to undo oil feed and drain hoses to the vacuum pump also. Don't loose the copper washers when you undo the feed hose.

Good luck.

 

[danktank]

The stock 55Amp alternator on these trucks is relatively weak even when working well. I upgraded to a larger 70Amp alternator from a different model 2LTE. It's a bolt on upgrade, and made a big difference I found.

The current alternator is the 70Amp version.
It has been replaced before.

Pulling the alternator out for another test (with different auto electric place) might be a good idea. It is a fair amount of work to get out, as you have to remove the air cleaner, and A/C compressor, plus belts. I find the tensioning system for the alternator hard to get at (especially bottom bolt of alternator). You have to undo oil feed and drain hoses to the vacuum pump also. Don't loose the copper washers when you undo the feed hose.

OK, will be pulling the alternator out since the air box, A/C compressor belts, and everything else is out for now (haven't put things back together since the timing belt job) and bring for testing (won't go wrong right? hehe).
Will be getting some parts before putting everything back together. The parts shop and another reputable auto electric shop is nearby, so might as well one trip settles everything.

 

[danktank]

Engine misfire update (02/04/2021)

Engine still shudders. It's timing advances and retards randomly when engine is running even when warm.
Checked injection pump position again: moved slightly, hmmmm.... strange....... it wasn't at that position before.

So I tried to move it.
Injection pump was very loose and when I loosen the nuts (turns easily!) holding it to T-case, a piece of the injection pump fell right off....
The entire pump is almost entirely held in place by the injection pipe union and the timing pulley!
Also, the pump stay bolt is missing.

Ah crap.

Is is possible to continue to use the pump?
Anywhere to get a 2nd hand pump?
Would be quite the hunt around local junkyard to find a replacement pump.

The broken piece

A good pump for comparation. (Stole one of your photos, haha)

It's the flange part of the pump holding it to T-case.
Broke off likely due to excessive vibration while being loose.


High chance of needing to pull the pump out as pump case might be cracked.
Any tips and tricks when removing the injection pump?

The manual shows steps of repair when engine is outside of the car with most things removed...
In practice doing on-vehicle repair, spaces are really tight... Haha
But still extremely useful tho. The information inside is indispensable!
Feel like am going to learn a lot from this encounter.

The engine bay setup is pretty much completely stock.


The loose pump is probably the root cause of all the heartpain these 5 months...

Wire of correction resistor probably broke due to high vibration of the loose pump.
Misfire is likely caused by this and the loose timing belt.
Tightening the timing belt probably just pull the pump tight by pivoting it on one side and made it seems better, (thus the timing mark is off by a tad bit)

 

[danktank]

Alternator inconsistent charging update (05/04/2021)

Have pulled the alternator out but have yet to send it to shop.
However, I removed the regulator and rectifier assembly and tested the components with a multi meter. (just to make sure)

Field coils each measuring 0.04 Ohm from the center tap.
Rotor measuring 3 Ohm.
Field and Rotor have no continuity to ground.
Test passed.

Rectifier:
Bingo!
Rectifier failed. Only 1 of the three phase is working. The remaining 2 have no continuity at all.
Looked at the physical condition, can understand why:
Diodes are either cracked or bulged. Yikes.
CRISPY
Now am wondering why the diode pack failed...

Regulator:
Have no idea how to test it....
So no idea if it is working or not.



And one thing:
Can the regulator of a 70 amp alternator be swapped into a 60A alternator?

Previously when the alternator was swapped to the more powerful 70A version,my dad kept the old 60A Alternator as a spare.
Now, the 70A alternator has a rectifier failure.
The 60A alternator had a regulator failure.
The connecting points and pin out of both regulators are exactly the same.
Might just be able to swap in the good regulator and have a good alternator

Edit: swapped it into the 60A alternator
Tested with a drill and some jumpers
It outputs 15.9 volts. Regulator is shot too.
Sense pin disconnecting changes nothing, likely broken within the unit.
Wired the test setup as per the manual

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Good progress!

If it were me, I'd replace the broken injection pump. It can be done on the engine, but is a lot of work for sure. 4hrs out, 4hrs in about.

It sounds like you're getting to the bottom of your alternator problems. Many of the regulator/rectifier parts are interchangeable with other Toyota alternators. You can probably use Megazip drawings to figure it out.

 

[danktank]

Engine Misfire Update(06/04/2021)

Number 1 idler has has a hissing sound when turned and have black greasy/powdery substance around the bearing seal. (GMB unit)
Number 2 idler have some minor play in bearing when out (Toyota OE? Koyo bearings)
Are these phenomenon normal?

Went to spare part shop (authorized Toyota parts dealer) today.
Gave them the part number found on mega zip for idler no 1, no 2 and timing belt
They say part does not exist in the management system...
They don't have the belt case and gaskets either....

Are part numbers different between different countries?

Because just now went ahead and check the maintenance record receipts of the car related to timing belt after coming back, the part number for the belt and idlers are completely different.
The record was from 2012.
Internet search shows both part numbers are for the exact same parts.

The timing belt was replaced once in 2012 in east malaysia by a professional mechanic, dad sourced part from a authorised toyota parts dealer for the mechanic.
We moved at the end of 2012 to west malaysia.
Timing belt was replaced once more in 2018 in west malaysia, however, the mechanic sourced part himself. Am dubious about the parts origin.

 

[danktank]

Alternator Inconsistent Charging Update (10/04/2021)
Have checked price for rectifier and regulator.
The shopkeeper says be parts alone already cost 1/2 of a brand new chinese alternator with vacuum pump.
The rectifier and regulator are from china too.
Junkyard wants exhorbitant amount for a used 70A Unit.

Is the chinese alternator worth it or should I repair the existing one?

Has anyone has experience with chinese alternator?

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

Have the alternator rebuilt. Peace of mind plus work for your local shop.

It is wise to avoid Chinese parts as much as possible. Today's savings will become tomorrow's expenses.






Juan

 

[danktank]

Engine misfire update (13/04/2021)

Heya, I'm back!
After one week, the spare parts shop people finally replied me!

The L-series engine is quite old by now so they had to dig through their warehouse to find it...
Nowadays commonrail directed injected KD and GD series are the mainstream engine...
KZ is rare in our country since road tax rate is based on displacement.

They have:
Crankshaft oil seal: 90311-42026 (NOK)
Camshaft oil seal: 90311-32020 (NOK)
Timing belt: 13568-YZZ01 (Toyota genuine, made by Mitsuboshi)
Idler No.1: Koyo Bearings or NSK
Idler No.2: Koyo Bearings

Hmmm, is the timing belt of this part number (13568-YZZ01) reliable?
It is indeed for the L-series engine but haven't come across it before.
Listed on Megazip and Amayama too.

Also, any idea about how to differentiate between real and counterfeit for the belt and bearings?
Searched online but found no solid guidelines...

Belt case will likely have to find a second hand unit...



PS: How long does a CT20 turbo usually last under normal condition? (Subjective question, I understand ;D)

It was replaced 3 times with second-hand original Toyota units already since 2005.
First one seized
Second one sprayed oil
Third one rattled badly and sprayed oil
Each lasted around 5 years...
The engine is never pushed too hard. (below 3000 RPM everytime)
Am wondering if it is normal...

Lubricant am using Shell Helix HX5 10w-40 (Semi-synthetic).
Oil change is always on time (5000KM) and always used Genuine toyota Filter.

 

[danktank]

Hello,

Have the alternator rebuilt. Peace of mind plus work for your local shop.

It is wise to avoid Chinese parts as much as possible. Today's savings will become tomorrow's expenses.

-Juan

Thanks for the reply, Juan!

Noted and will send it for rebuild.

Will be a gamble tho XD

 

[Dprio34]

@danktank , the timing belt number is correct. Works fine and lasts a long time.

Get a brand new Voltage Regular while you are at it. Avoid used stuff as much as possible.

Regarding fake Toyota parts....I’d say, stay focused on your project.
Mitsubishi also makes belts / crosses with you alternator V belts.

 

[danktank]

Engine Misfiring Update 18/04/2021
Back again, this project is really progressing really slowly. XD
Have a lot of other things needed to attend to at home.
Since the car is grounded since January, a few more weeks shouldn't hurt right?

Alright,
Got dem new timing belt (13568 YZZ01) and idler number 1 (Koyo)
Had to return the timing belt as it had a white patch that cannot be wiped off.
The replacement unit was fine.
Both belts came in opened bag for some reason...

Have only managed to get idler number 1 (tensioner pulley).
Got the Koyo unit as it was still sealed in the factory bag and ran smooth.
No lateral play and had the resistance of new grease.
The NSK tensioner pulley they had was already opened and was rusty and gritty.
Had lot's of play too (probably some really ancient stock or counterfeit)

As for Idler No.2,
The NSK idler number 2 (the toothed idler) they had was also already opened.
Same story, rusty and gritty.
They only had the NSK one and it was the last piece...
I didn't take it.

Have checked Koyo's website for part number of the toothed idler and will probably go to the local authorized Koyo distributor to see if can order from them directly.
Straight from source.

The two oil seals was in open packet... seems suspicious...
It is written NOK on it...
Anyone happen to have a photo of the Toyota Original Crank and Cam Oil seals or ways to check for counterfeit seal?
Just to be sure haha

Someone used a counterfeit NOK seal on that car before years ago. (fixed a long time ago)
It didn't last long and became crusty in a few months.
Oil leaked everywhere.
That's why am asking...hehe

The current crank seal is leaking slightly so will need to replace it.

Abt the cracked injection pump, I put the piece back and tightened down the pump to T-Case to spec...
Seems to stay there solid for now.
It will probably stay like this until am able to find a replacement pump.

Welp, that's all the update I have for now.



-Tea