What size heims or joints are you going with? 1.25 is a little small for tube links. My heims are 1.25.
The one ton swap thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cody c
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- Thread starter
- #43
Someone lent me a powder coat gun and an oven and now I’m getting these things coated. Beadlock rings will be more of a gold color with stainless flush mount fasteners. You can see the matte finish before the oven
The shadows make them look a bit darker than they appear, I was aiming for more of a gunmetal grey, the color is silver vein but it’s more a darker hammered sort of color than silver.
Wheels have both a shrader valve and a brass “air compressor tank dump valve” to make airing down quick, and I can check pressure with a gauge while it is dumping air.
I’m a little worried about 100% paint coverage so I’m going to clear coat the things with clear aerosol paint to try and prevent rust before I mount them.
The shadows make them look a bit darker than they appear, I was aiming for more of a gunmetal grey, the color is silver vein but it’s more a darker hammered sort of color than silver.
Wheels have both a shrader valve and a brass “air compressor tank dump valve” to make airing down quick, and I can check pressure with a gauge while it is dumping air.
I’m a little worried about 100% paint coverage so I’m going to clear coat the things with clear aerosol paint to try and prevent rust before I mount them.
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I feel like I’m going to need 1 tons after this duramax swap. I’m either going to destroy the 80 tcase or the axles...I guess time will tell what happens!
- Thread starter
- #45
Well.. Ive had this thing for probably over ten years. The carnage has always been rear diff, and a birfield. Actually the spindle bearings in the front a few times.cAnd specifically the pinion usually spits out teeth first.
I think 35" and under is not really a problem and I never had breakage when I had 35's and the auto, and your duramax is gonna be lighter than the 6BT. If you are hard on it though or are going bigger, it may be a worthwhile upgrade, and to be honest if you want to tow and have brakes that are a bit more capable then a SD dana 60 and 14 bolt or whatever may be worth the investment.
- Thread starter
- #46
Well. Tires are a pain. All of them had a small leak, three had a pin hole near the drain valve. Sand blasted some paint on the weld and rewelded the other between the outer head and tire. A little bit of vulcanizing rubber paint was the fix.
They all seam to like a bit of rubber vulcanizing paint around the outer lip. I kind of think the anti cone ring should be like 1mm less wide but seeming to hold air now.
Started on the rear fenders. Took out 3.25”, gonna have to go about another 1”
They all seam to like a bit of rubber vulcanizing paint around the outer lip. I kind of think the anti cone ring should be like 1mm less wide but seeming to hold air now.
Started on the rear fenders. Took out 3.25”, gonna have to go about another 1”
- Thread starter
- #47
Some more of wheel well widening.
Will weld in some metal later and coat with epoxy primer. Not sure if I want to try the fiberglass myself or pay someone to tackle the fenders.
Tires look to be sticking out about 4.5” past the fenders.
Will weld in some metal later and coat with epoxy primer. Not sure if I want to try the fiberglass myself or pay someone to tackle the fenders.
Tires look to be sticking out about 4.5” past the fenders.
- Thread starter
- #48
“Cut, cut, cut your fenders! Gently till you clear!
Holy smokes a wiring wiring harness, keep that extinguisher near!!!”
Remember that song from your childhood?
It’s about 4.5” widened now, seems about right.
Holy smokes a wiring wiring harness, keep that extinguisher near!!!”
Remember that song from your childhood?
It’s about 4.5” widened now, seems about right.
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- Thread starter
- #49
Yup, it’s coming along slowly.
I’d like to get the trans back to make sure the angle for the pinion flange is where I want it to be before I finish and weld the upper wishbone.
Front axle is almost ready for being burnt together, waiting on the machinist for the pucks that will slide in the outer knuckles.
The six shooters are in trade for some of the welding work but they were bare so I powder coated them anyways.
I have powder coated almost everything, and stripped and am rebuilding rear calipers. Baked them in the oven bare to get any contamination off them. Will sand blast cabinet them one more time and flap disc the tougher casting before powder coating them. Fronts were new so they just got matching aerosol paint and clear coat. Planning on coating the D60 knuckles and high steer whenever the machinist gets them done as well.
I also purchased some things that I didn’t necessarily need. In the long term I’d like an electric auburn diff up front. I want to be sure I like the 4.11 gear set, as the D60 uses a different carrier for 4.11 and faster gears, and one for 4.56 and slower gear sets but found one of these hard to find Contura lockkng switches. In a full time 4WD rig you don’t want someone accidentally bumping the switch on the highway at speed
Grabbed some 1/2” synthetic winch cable, new aluminum fairlead as well.
I’d like to get the trans back to make sure the angle for the pinion flange is where I want it to be before I finish and weld the upper wishbone.
Front axle is almost ready for being burnt together, waiting on the machinist for the pucks that will slide in the outer knuckles.
The six shooters are in trade for some of the welding work but they were bare so I powder coated them anyways.
I have powder coated almost everything, and stripped and am rebuilding rear calipers. Baked them in the oven bare to get any contamination off them. Will sand blast cabinet them one more time and flap disc the tougher casting before powder coating them. Fronts were new so they just got matching aerosol paint and clear coat. Planning on coating the D60 knuckles and high steer whenever the machinist gets them done as well.
I also purchased some things that I didn’t necessarily need. In the long term I’d like an electric auburn diff up front. I want to be sure I like the 4.11 gear set, as the D60 uses a different carrier for 4.11 and faster gears, and one for 4.56 and slower gear sets but found one of these hard to find Contura lockkng switches. In a full time 4WD rig you don’t want someone accidentally bumping the switch on the highway at speed
Grabbed some 1/2” synthetic winch cable, new aluminum fairlead as well.
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- Thread starter
- #51
My understanding is that they make two different carriers:
these guys list separate carriers for ARB, yukon, ox etc.
Just reading some bad reviews on the auburn now, might read some more and go with something else.
Edit: I need a hand, Im trying to find out which master cylinder to swap to. I thought I had a T-100 master cylinder in the garage for an upgrade, I was going to swap that in, I cant find it now and am looking to probably order off rockauto or something but I want to know exactly what will be best before ordering.
Ill try digging through some swap threads, I think theres probably only 12 people that follow this thread but if anyone knows off hand which thread or which cylinder people are using please post up or post a link.
Auburn Select-a-Loc Limited Slip Differential
Auburn Gear. Performance Differentials.
www.justdifferentials.com
Auburn Select-a-Loc Limited Slip Differential
Auburn Gear. Performance Differentials.
www.justdifferentials.com
these guys list separate carriers for ARB, yukon, ox etc.
Dana 60 Selectable Locker Differentials
Experience the thrill and ease of tailoring your Truck or Jeep with our Guaranteed Lowest Prices on all Dana 60 Selectable Locker Differentials products at 4WP. Providing Expert Advice with over 35 Years of Experience and Free Shipping on Orders Over $.
www.4wheelparts.ca
Just reading some bad reviews on the auburn now, might read some more and go with something else.
Edit: I need a hand, Im trying to find out which master cylinder to swap to. I thought I had a T-100 master cylinder in the garage for an upgrade, I was going to swap that in, I cant find it now and am looking to probably order off rockauto or something but I want to know exactly what will be best before ordering.
Ill try digging through some swap threads, I think theres probably only 12 people that follow this thread but if anyone knows off hand which thread or which cylinder people are using please post up or post a link.
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I think you can find the info you are looking for here.
forum.ih8mud.com
Builds - Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread
Hey @woody how do I monetize my build thread for ad revenue??? 💵💵 You make a link to the digi FSM apparently :P
forum.ih8mud.com
In the past I used an adapter from Sky off road to go to a one ton master cylinder.
- Thread starter
- #54
Hmm, on an 80 you had it? Which one ton master cylinder? Sounds like the T100 came with both 1” and 1-1/16” and ABS and non ABS.
I’m wondering now if I’ll need that adapter as well. Off to check out the sky off road site
You need a master cylinder bigger than the T100 1 1/16” bore to feed those big calipers. Go hydro boost with 1 1/4” or maybe 1 5/16” bore MC.
- Thread starter
- #56
Well crap... I’m really not wanting to go to hydro boost ($$) and good to know about bore sizes.
I’ll read a bit more and see if I can find some more first hand experiences, but I’m glad you posted up before I order parts.
Maybe @nukegoat or @maxamillion2345 could chime in with MCs they used...
I'm running a hydro booster with 1 1/8' MC, stock 80 calipers, abs deleted and the pedal travel is well under 2" for normal braking. I could drive any trail bare foot and run the brakes with my big toe all day long. Diesel powered pickups have used hydro boost for years now and even some gas powered passenger cars have used it. It's not as expensive as you might think when compared to new, authentic Toyota parts especially if you can acquire some good use parts. A family owned business in southern CA called VanCo can hydro boost any vehicle and they know their business. If nothing else, they would be a good source of info for you.
You'll be running huge tires and huge brakes, there is no point in toying around with the booster and MC.
What would you guess you have into it as a total?
