Builds The Warthog - 1977/73 combo (4 Viewers)

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I think a pig just needs to be on 35s. your updates look great.

Man. It’s a lot of work. Feels kinda like a spring over now but I’ll get used to it. Thanks for chiming in. Hope it stays together for me
 
That little black and white guy likes to be seen between those two cruisers. I can tell.
Just don't try to move him out of the way when another vehicle is driving up... I tried picking him up to keep him from getting smooshed, and he went ballistic. I'll stick with Cowboy.
 
Couple hours into the weekend. The Warthog is humming along nicely. So far nothing has fallen off. That rubber overdrive is nice but I can feel those big suckers on the hills and corners for sure

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Took the Warthog down to 49Tire to get my alignment specs. Turns out my toe is within spec but my caster was whacked.
I brought it home and tore the 4* caster shims out and man, what a difference that made.
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Can you elaborate on this a little?

Looking at the printout it looks like you were at -2° caster and removing your 4° shims would have put you at -6° of caster and I’m not understanding how that would make it better.

Thanks!
 
Can you elaborate on this a little?

Looking at the printout it looks like you were at -2° caster and removing your 4° shims would have put you at -6° of caster and I’m not understanding how that would make it better.

Thanks!
It’s a shackle reversal so I had the shims in with the large end to the rear. Makes sense pulling them is correct to add the caster back.
 
Got it, try putting them back in the correct way and you might like the way it drives better with your caster at 4° to 6° positive

That’s a good idea. No idea why I did not do that. I love me some 4-6 caster.

I need to redo some things. I may build me a new front axle and put my big boy panties on and do a cut/turn
 
If we agree on the 3° misalignment max for U-joints in a high speed application and if we assume Toyota set the transfer case and frontend flanges at 0° and a caster angle at 1°-2° from the factory then changing the total caster to 4°-6° would change the frontend flange down, again if I assume I’m correct then @wngrog would be at or near factory spec now and adding a 4° shim the “correct” way will change his axle flange within one degree of ideal but still should be within an acceptable range for a part time four-wheel drive. Worst case scenario you get a slight vibration with your hubs locked driving highway speeds on a paved road that you don’t notice on dirt roads.
 
Pulling the 4* shims put it back to 2*+ which sets the drive flange at 0*. Adding +4* will tilt the flange to -4, coupled with 6” of lift is the opposite of what you want. Either live with the +2* or go with the C&T for more satisfactory results.
Go ahead and try putting the shims in. When you see what the d-shaft angle looks like, you’ll be pulling them back out. Been there...
 

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