Help diagnose, key stuck in ACC and won't come out (1 Viewer)

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Excellent. I've several things to do around the property today but will check back later. You may not find anything amiss there but we need to start from a known point.
I’m with you!
 
Well here is the bad news. I got down underneath and found my way to the control shaft and the nut I need to loosen. But the nut and the bolt it tightens look fairly rusty. I gave it a little pressure but it didn’t want to move. If I horse it I’m going to snap that thing.

Any way to proceed forward with the assumption that things have stayed put underneath throughout this whole thing or this has got to be step one?

If not this isn’t the end of the world. The truck has an appointment in two weeks to go into the shop to fix a leaking rear engine seal, they need to drop the transmission anyway. I can just leave this for them to fix, and we can make it two weeks popping the battery.
 
Well here is the bad news. I got down underneath and found my way to the control shaft and the nut I need to loosen. But the nut and the bolt it tightens look fairly rusty. I gave it a little pressure but it didn’t want to move. If I horse it I’m going to snap that thing.

Any way to proceed forward with the assumption that things have stayed put underneath throughout this whole thing or this has got to be step one?

If not this isn’t the end of the world. The truck has an appointment in two weeks to go into the shop to fix a leaking rear engine seal, they need to drop the transmission anyway. I can just leave this for them to fix, and we can make it two weeks popping the battery.

My preference would be to start from a known to be accurate shifter position. But let's put this one on the back burner until you can get some penetrating oil on that nut. Yes, it's fair to assume that the 'distance' between the shifter and transmission (via the linkage) is the same, since obviously the nut is not loose, but we can't account for 'wear' on the shift arm or internally in the trans.

But since you have a 'work around' for the shifter....let's see what is going on with the key not coming out of the cylinder. As I see it....there would be two possibilities.

1. Mechanically the shifter is not fully in 'park' regardless what the shift indicator is pointing to. It would only need to be off a small amount to cause a problem. But since you can start the vehicle in park I'm guessing its pretty close. I would also have you try to start the vehicle in neutral and see what happens.

2. The Key Interlock Solenoid is not functioning correctly (or at all).

KIS1.jpg

KIS2.jpg
 
Doesn’t the solenoid releasing when I pop the negative terminal mean it’s working fine?
 
Doesn’t the solenoid releasing when I pop the negative terminal mean it’s working fine?

Not necessarily, the key interlock solenoid is controlled by the Shift Lock Control ECU. I would omh it out just to make sure there isn't too much resistance or an internal short. You might also just disconnect the connector and see if that alone lets you withdraw the key or if that circuit being completed is critical to its function.
 
Understood, will do.

I know its a pain to get to some of these things and I wouldn't have you do it if it wasn't necessary.

It's just that cutting power (all power everywhere via battery disconnect) is not the same thing as the ECU managing the circuit. Looking at the schematic it simply doesn't suggest one way or the other how the solenoid operates.

But if testing it were as simple as disconnecting the battery....surely the FSM would have us do it that way.
 
Nothing exciting to report. Today was all about finishing off all this interior work before it goes back into the shop tomorrow. I finished everything I wanted to, but I’m done for the night. Any issue right now has a workaround, so I’ll get back into this once I get the car back. Again, I really appreciate all the time and help!
 
Nothing exciting to report. Today was all about finishing off all this interior work before it goes back into the shop tomorrow. I finished everything I wanted to, but I’m done for the night. Any issue right now has a workaround, so I’ll get back into this once I get the car back. Again, I really appreciate all the time and help!

No hurry. Give a shout when you're ready to look at it again. Been putting Motor Mounts in one of my Bronco's today....so I would have been out of pocket anyway.

We'll pick it up later. 👍
 
Brought the truck back into the shop this morning, wife drove it and I drove my car. Wife parks the truck, key came right out. We both just stood there laughing...
 
Brought the truck back into the shop this morning, wife drove it and I drove my car. Wife parks the truck, key came right out. We both just stood there laughing...

Haha..........

I suppose there is the possibility that your Land Cruiser is 'female'. Maybe it felt 'scorned' by something you did and was punishing you?

Being female....it will get 'over it' and forgive you when it gets damn good and ready, right?
 
Brought the truck back into the shop this morning, wife drove it and I drove my car. Wife parks the truck, key came right out. We both just stood there laughing...
You do now realize that your wife has been fu(king with you and the key fiasco the whole time. If she knows about manifolds, she knows enough to just barely loosen electrical connectors to drive YOU nuts and then slyly reconnect them at will to further make you look foolish when she is in command and control of the rig.
 
I wanted to close this thread out. You folks were so helpful that weekend, and although we didn't get to the solution we were able to limp our way through getting all the soft trim work finished up, then I spent this week detailing it. It goes into the shop on Monday and they'll sort out this business with the gear shift and the key solenoid not letting go after ACC. I put up a thread showing all the work we did to the truck here:

 
The problem did indeed turn out to be the shift lock controller having a short. My shop is ordering the part and replacing it. Meanwhile they’re bypassing the shift lock so we can take the key out and stop the battery drain, with the caveat that the car can now be started in any gear and to exercise extreme caution. That will keep us hobbling along until the part arrives some time next week.
 
The problem did indeed turn out to be the shift lock controller having a short. My shop is ordering the part and replacing it. Meanwhile they’re bypassing the shift lock so we can take the key out and stop the battery drain, with the caveat that the car can now be started in any gear and to exercise extreme caution. That will keep us hobbling along until the part arrives some time next week.

Do you have the part number for this? I have the same exact issue on my LX. Right now the negative battery terminal is disconnected and the key was able to be pulled out.
 

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