Noob attempt to replace front rotors pads and bearings (1 Viewer)

[thebeedeegee]

how much is the shop rate for this job anyone know? dealer or indy. so I can bask in pride LOL

I can't imagine new rotors and bearings being less than $600 but I dunno. Either way you saved money and ensured it was done correctly. My bearings had been serviced by Lexus at about 90k miles and the driver side nut was hand tight and both sides had chisel marks where the tech didn't even use a hub socket to loosen or tighten them....that's some bull****.

Jobs like this it's way better to take the time and follow the FSM because most of the time a shop is just racing through the job cutting corners to maximize profit and still charges you insane prices.

 

[bobNoobie]

^ That's true it is above and beyond of saving money.

I got power stop caliper on order from rock auto. Paid USD$ 293.97. hoping to get $100 back when I ship mine back.
Hopefully its a good one

 

[bobNoobie]

caliper arrived today.
I am confused as what is this flimsy ring for? Do I take it off or leave it on on install? Thanks

it has this ring on each piston boot, seems to make the boot in place. but they are not very tight and easily falls off...

 

[mitchjohnson000]

I don't know what that ring is but they gave you a red caliper LOL

Adds 25hp

 

[bobNoobie]

yea, unfortunate LOL.

it'll get so dusty no one will ever see eventually

 

[ramangain]

caliper arrived today.
I am confused as what is this flimsy ring for? Do I take it off or leave it on on install? Thanks

it has this ring on each piston boot, seems to make the boot in place. but they are not very tight and easily falls off...

View attachment 2603110

Call the vendor/manufacturer for an explanation?

 

[bobNoobie]

Call the vendor/manufacturer for an explanation?

I emailed them. But Installed it anyway. Worse case I need to bleed the brake again

Yes it's a rust bucket unfortunately

Fingers crossed haven't poke any hole on the frame yet

 

[2001LC]

You were correct too installing the retainer ring on caliper. It's retains the seal (boot) and position of the boot. Without it water and dirt will get into caliper and can damage piston.

I find most wheel bearing services done wrong from Dealerships & INDY shops:

1. Breakaway preload not set,.
2. Hub flange snap ring reused.
3. Snap ring gap not set.
4. Lock washer not properly locked.
5. Bad (will not seal water out) grease cap reused.
6. Hub flange beat on, damaging cone washer seat and warping flange messing up seal to hub.
7. Old grease not cleaned out, just add new grease to bearings.
8. Axle bearing & bushing not lubed.
9. Hub cavity not pack 98% full of grease.
10. Bad hub flange reused.
11. Damage cone washer reused.
12. Oil seal on back of hub put in backward.

Looks like your FDS inner boot small clamp is weeping CV grease. NAPA has a clamp for re-clamping these, works great!

 

[bobNoobie]

I had to reuse the old snapring. I order the rear doh

this is front snap ring
9052031007

I got 9052044038


How do you gap the snap ring?

 

[2001LC]

Since you've been driving. The grease (assume you greased the axle bearing and bushing) will be settled. So simple pull grease cap off while tire on ground or jack under lower control arm. This keeps FDS (AKA CV) axle from being pulled inward. Then thread a 8 x1.25mm bolt into end of axle and pull on it. This is all just to make sure axle is pulled out as far as possible, while checking gap. Then place a feeler gauge between hub flange and snap ring. Spec is less than 0.20mm gap. If at or over, go up to next thicker size snap ring that yeild less than 0.20mm gap.

As you can see this gap is way over 0.20mm at 0.56mm. Here we'd go up 2 sizes adding 0.40mm to thickness of current snap ring. The end result would be a gap on 0.16mm. Which 0.16mm would be a gap wider than I like to see, but within spec. I would try to get 3rd size up into grove first, as I pulled out axle as hard as I reasonable can.

I keep bags of new snap rings of various sizes. I start at 2.8mm thickness and work down until I get one that fits in the groove. I use the 2.4mm (90520-31007) the "D" most often and 2.6mm (90520-31006) the "C" second most.

Note: if you use the 2.0mm or 1.80mm snap ring, I'll bet your gap is to wide. I'll bet you've not pulled the axle hard enough or settled the grease. Never, not even when replacing bearings, races, brass bushing, FDS and hubs with all new OEM parts, do use those thin snap rings used.

Most often I'm setting snap ring gap after a full wheel bearing and knuckle service. Where I have greased the axle bearing & bushing (PM is every 30K miles) and installed a new seal.

Or I've used my Slee greasing tool to grease the axle needle bearing and brass bushing.

In these it's important to settle the grease between the FDS outer axle on brass bushing in back of knuckle. Here's old video of tools found in the shop to make a puller. I and other have made various tools for pull axle to settle grease and set snap ring.

 

[2001LC]

Today I've a tool that looks something like this one I use now.

 

[bobNoobie]

Its complete. I can't believe I did it. Though it is not perfect but. Took it around the block. It drives smooth and stop good.

Next I will re check the gap and bleed, drain and fill with fresh brake fluid


Now the game is to see if I screw up something after some miles or if the bearing will last


Thank you all for the guide, tips and finding youtube reference.

Rear diff fluid done
Rear brake done
Front brake and bearing done


Next on the list :
center diff fluid
Front diff fluid
Transmission fluid
Ahc fluid

 

[chudly]

does bearing maintenance require new bearings, race and seal? i'm planning on a doing a brake job in the next week or 2 and wanted to throw some new grease in while i had it all open. I thought I saw that most of the time the bearings are fine

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Depends on miles and previous maintenance. If you're around 200k and they've never been changed, I would. Less miles and the hubs have been repacked previously, you should be fine.

 

[thebeedeegee]

does bearing maintenance require new bearings, race and seal? i'm planning on a doing a brake job in the next week or 2 and wanted to throw some new grease in while i had it all open. I thought I saw that most of the time the bearings are fine

My bearings and races looked good at 190k miles. I just repacked and set preload and let it ride

 

[chudly]

My bearings and races looked good at 190k miles. I just repacked and set preload and let it ride

this would still require a new seal right? or you are just shoving grease in there with it all together?

 

[thebeedeegee]

this would still require a new seal right? or you are just shoving grease in there with it all together?

Nah I did put in a new seal

 

[Trunk Monkey]

To get the bearings on the back side out, cleaned, and re-greased, you would need a new rear seal.

 

[chudly]

got it! ok ordering 2 seals! thanks! it's this 90316-A0001 right?

edit: or 90311-70011 ? I think these actually.

 

[fblainen11]

I thought I am going to log my idiot work here.

I am an idiot when it comes to car repair. I broke things and makes matter worse.

so here it goes my attempt to do front rotors pads and bearing. I need all the wishes

I am sure there will be breakage along the way. I envision that snap ring will go haywire as I am attempting to do it without proper tooling. any other guess what else I will mess up?

Flange Gasket 43422 60070
Axle nut lock washer 90215-42025
Axle nut 54mm socket
Outer bearing 9008036067
Inner bearing 9008036098
Bearing seal 9031170011
Push washer 9021442030

I am equipped with chow cares you tube video

Hold your snap ring pliers vertical. I struggled for the same exact reason and my wife walked out to see why I was cussing and she said "just turn them the other way.". Genius.