@franklin40 & @Spook50 I threw in a 50ohm resister this morning. I won't be able to say for sure until it get dark tonight, but it look about the same brightness as the brake and CEL light next to them.
Instructions for LED Headlight upgrade (1 Viewer)
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Well it’s better, I’ll run it like this for a bit and see how it is. Never you mind my broke oil pressure gauge.
50ohms ended up not being enough. Still got blinded with the LED high beam indicator whenever I turned the high beams on. I ordered some 100ohm resistors and apparently misplaced them. So I soldered two 50ohm resistors back to back. Reduces the amps down to 0.13A oppose to 0.23A with just one 50ohm resistor. The dash indicator still comes on, so I'll report back to let you guys know how it turns out.
Being that the LED bulb only draws 0.01A I'm not sure I'll see a difference. If this doesn't work I'll give up and go back to incandescent
www.superbrightleds.com
Being that the LED bulb only draws 0.01A I'm not sure I'll see a difference. If this doesn't work I'll give up and go back to incandescent
74 LED Bulb - 3 SMD LED - Miniature Wedge Base - Blue
LED replacement bulbs can fit numerous vehicle applications such as vanity lights, dome lights, map lights, dashboard lights, instrument panel lights and gauge lights. This 74 bulb replaces a variety of traditional bulbs including 74, 103 and 118 bulbs. It has 3 LEDs (3528 SMD)—1 top-mounted and...
Yeah a resistor alone won't dim the LED as long as the voltage matches its operating voltage and the current available is equal to or more than it pulls. You'd need a PWM to "dim" it. A better option if you want to keep an LED in the indicator would be to find one with a lower lumen output, which is what I might do. The primary reason the resistor is used in the first place is to prevent blowing the fuses when you toggle high beams by pulling the stalk back. If you have an incandescent bulb in the dash, you could dim THAT by changing resistor values. I can't remember if the socket uses a 194 or a 168 bulb. They're the same dimensionally, but the 168 bulb is brighter and draws more current (also as a consequence, hotter). If the original design was for a 168 bulb, I would try a 194 bulb instead to see how you like it.50ohms ended up not being enough. Still got blinded with the LED high beam indicator whenever I turned the high beams on. I ordered some 100ohm resistors and apparently misplaced them. So I soldered two 50ohm resistors back to back. Reduces the amps down to 0.13A oppose to 0.23A with just one 50ohm resistor. The dash indicator still comes on, so I'll report back to let you guys know how it turns out.
Being that the LED bulb only draws 0.01A I'm not sure I'll see a difference. If this doesn't work I'll give up and go back to incandescent
74 LED Bulb - 3 SMD LED - Miniature Wedge Base - Blue
LED replacement bulbs can fit numerous vehicle applications such as vanity lights, dome lights, map lights, dashboard lights, instrument panel lights and gauge lights. This 74 bulb replaces a variety of traditional bulbs including 74, 103 and 118 bulbs. It has 3 LEDs (3528 SMD)—1 top-mounted and...
Well, a resistor worked. I messed around with bulb on my test bench power generator. At 14v unrestricited the LED pulls 0.019Amps. Swap over to constant current and reduced the amps until I found the brightness level i thought was about right, which was 0.003amps. Did the math to double check the superbrightleds specs and the LED has about 74ohm of resistance on it own. But anyways I end up ordering a 4K Ohm resistor from Mouser electronics. Threw it in today and it’s prefect. No more blinding myself with the hi beam indicator.
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I stand corrected. Looks like I need to church myself up on LED circuits again.
i know there are dimmable LED bulbs now. And LEDs definitely have an on/off voltage threshold with minimal output difference regardless of applied voltage unlike an incandescent. But I know from personal experience that my LED headlamp light output does vary with the amount of charge remaining in its batteries. Still I think it’s a pretty small range of light output to voltage drop as compared to the older filament bulbs.
Yeah the bulb in question has a pretty generous volt spread, it's advertised as 10-16VDC. But with my test bench power supply on constant current the light was working all the way down to around 8.3 volts.
Yeah, that's what had gotten me was the availability of dimmable bulbs. Ironic that I have dimmable bulbs all over my house
Looking for information on how to wire an 80 series with 9005 and 9006 plugs to a 4 headlight LED setup. Researched every thread I could find but still confused. This thread has the most info so thought I'd post here as well. It appears that the FJ62s had a 3 wire plug maybe on the low beams which if so is different than the 2 wire low and high beams of the 80 series. Also, a lot of the resistors in this thread aren't identified but look a lot like the resistors used for blinkers when putting LEDs in to slow them down. Is that correct? And it appears they are installed in the low beam circuit but are for the high beam indicator and the high beams are just wired direct. If anyone has done this on an 80 and has pictures that would really help. Thanks in advance!
Update for anyone who is looking for 80 series information. On my 97 collectors edition I was able to just convert the plugs without any issues. So it does not need what the 60 series needs to work.
Wondering if anyone would be kind enough to help a lost soul out here... Forgive me, I'm a visual learner, have my harnesses made, believe they are hooked up correctly to my relay, but now I don't know what plugs into what as far as the actual headlights are concerned and which harness goes where? Does Harness C go on passenger side? Does Harness B go on passenger side or driver side? Using @EscapeWagon62 picture as reference, suppose I don't understand what I'm suppose to do with existing headlight female plugs, which of the harnesses my lights should plug into, etc... I have/see 4 female pigs, 3 male pigs, and 3 grounding wires. Do all the new JW 8800 headlights plug directly into the new 4 female pigs? If so, which ones? Sorry, so confused. Drive High plugs into #1 and Drive Low plugs into #2? What does #7 plug into? What plugs into #3 and #4? What does #5 and #6 plug into? Appreciate any help.
I want to thank all of you, I used all the information here to create what a was looking for. I really wanted leds but I don’t like the look of them on the fj62 I think it just doesn’t go together, so I went with holley retrobright they look very similar to factory making a much nice light on my opinion, then a wanted all 4 light on low beam on and all 4 on high beam on as well, I was worry that was going to be too much for the one high beam plug to handle so I went with two relay’s one controlled by positive to control the low beam for all 4 lights making a crossover wire and one controlled by ground for the high beam same as the other with a wire going to the other side to control all 4 lights with just two relay’s. I got all the signal from the passenger side high beam since is closest to the battery and all the wiring is made on 12ga wire that should be plenty. Today I might start messing with the high been indicator.
Some pictures
High beam
Low beam
Some pictures
High beam
Low beam
Congrats! looks fantastic!. I am about to order sets for me and a client. Can you please share some photos of the wires behind please.
yes sure, I will get you some pics of the wiring tomorrow.
kevin in okinawa
SILVER Star
don't know if it's been covered yet but the LEDs from Torfab (low and high beams) look legit and are $255 for all four.
Easy fix for this problem.
My Led bulb had an LED facing straight toward me, so i cross hatched that led with a black sharpie to reduce the light in my face and that solved it.
I made it too dim at first with just the reflected side leds so I just scratched sharpie off till it was the brightness i wanted.
Can you post the pictures of your wiring??
