Who’s rebuilt a diff lately? (1 Viewer)

[JDMRedhead]

Well, I’ve had a funny vibration/sound for a few days, so I decided to check my diffs/ Tcase. I found some very small metal chunks on the rear diff magnets, and some LARGE ones on the front diff magnets. I believe that I’m not going to be ordering bumpers now, but rebuilding both diffs. The thing is that I haven’t setup a diff in 25 years (high school). Is there anyone that can help? I’ll pull everything down to the 3rd members. I’m going to be looking for ring/pinion sets and might as well change to chromoly shafts front and rear. Just be done with it.

Any advice on where to source everything? I’m want quality over price.
Thanks,
Jeff


front chunks

 

[JDMRedhead]

Oh, and my water pump is starting to weep.

 

[rusty_tlc]

This

Driveline & Gear Service

Driveline and Gear of Reno Nevada. Specializing in driveshafts, differentials, drivelines, transmissions and transfer cases. 195 years experience and counting.

drivelineandgear.com

 

[JDMRedhead]

This

Driveline & Gear Service

Driveline and Gear of Reno Nevada. Specializing in driveshafts, differentials, drivelines, transmissions and transfer cases. 195 years experience and counting.

drivelineandgear.com

Thank you. I know Tom well. I have used them for years at my old job. They don’t always have the best prices, but I’ll give him a call tomorrow.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Thank you. I know Tom well. I have used them for years at my old job. They don’t always have the best prices, but I’ll give him a call tomorrow

Thank you. I know Tom well. I have used them for years at my old job. They don’t always have the best prices, but I’ll give him a call tomorrow.

Driveline services of Carson City seem to be more reasonable on price but hit or miss on customer service.

 

[lelandEOD]

Oof. That’s painful to look at. A club member helped me rebuild the diff in my 4Runner so we do have some skillz!

 

[RAYJON]

I can do them,. Same deal as Lee I hate gear oil if you pull it and clean it.. you can even pull it here.. I even have a loaner diff if you need one..

 

[fjc-man]

Get a quote from gearinstalls@gmail.com, he does good work.

 

[JDMRedhead]

I can do them,. Same deal as Lee I hate gear oil if you pull it and clean it.. you can even pull it here.. I even have a loaner diff if you need one..

Thank you sir for the offer. It’s both of them. Do you have a press for the bearings? I’m not going to be using the truck until everything is finished. (I have a new turbo flying in for Australia, and have to make a new exhaust, and repair a leaking injector, updating the brakes....etc)
I’m going to be pulling everything out at my house. Hopefully tonight I can make sure on the ratios, as I imported this and really don’t know what has been done. I’m going to be getting Nitro master kits with crush sleeve eliminators.
Jeff

 

[RAYJON]

Yes I have a press and all the bearing pullers, Takes about 4hrs per diff, pm me and we can talk, I have dropouts for both front and rear you can borrow if you need the rig, gears, bearings and other parts will get expensive quick...

 

[lelandEOD]

I want to be there when you two do this.

 

[reklund5]

I also can assist, although my sidework schedule is a little snug these days. Nick at MarTec engineering here in Carson can do them as well. He's my neighbor and does fabulous work

 

[JDMRedhead]

I want to be there when you two do thi

I also can assist, although my sidework schedule is a little snug these days. Nick at MarTec engineering here in Carson can do them as well. He's my neighbor and does fabulous work

I’m working with Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters on getting my wish list together. He’s having to check on a couple things from Nitro (complete front axle assemblies and rear shafts), and I need to count teeth for my ratio before ordering.
I have a big list of stuff coming in now:
Axle/diff parts
FZJ brakes
Transmission valve body
Exhaust
Glow plugs (want to get a compression check done for a baseline. My new tester was delivered today)
ACSD delete kit
HUGE tranny cooler
New catch can
And my Gturbo Grunter

don’t think I’ll have money left for any armor

 

[WILLD420]

If you are buying gears anyway, might be a good time to change ratios. Our elevation here sucks power, even from turbo motors and the steepness of our roads can use extra gearing.

 

[JDMRedhead]

If you are buying gears anyway, might be a good time to change ratios. Our elevation here sucks power, even from turbo motors and the steepness of our roads can use extra gearing.

I’m a turbo diesel if you didn’t know. I’m also already geared, just too low. I’m turning 2500rpm at 70, which is way out of the torque band. Attempting to count revolutions on the driveshaft and tire last night was difficult due to an extreme amount of lash, but I’m guessing that I have 4.88s.
At 70mph, with 34.5” tires (actually measured them with a tape and a square), 0.761 OD ratio, and 4.88 gear gives 2531rpm with the math.
I’m thinking of going to 4.56s to get me back in the torque.

 

[JDMRedhead]

Is it worth the money to buy the nitro master set up kits with the crush sleeve eliminators?

 

[reklund5]

I like the crush sleeve eliminator if you've got the patience to set up without them. It's tedious sometimes but I prefer it.

 

[JDMRedhead]

I like the crush sleeve eliminator if you've got the patience to set up without them. It's tedious sometimes but I prefer it.

Thanks Ryan.

I’m hoping to be able to get a start on tear down tonight. I need to double check my ratio, so I’ll pull apart the rear real quick, since it’s the easiest. I really need to get the front apart to check on my spider gears since those are so hard to locate.
I wish Cruiser Outfitters would work with me on their prices. They are more than 10% higher than YOTAMASTERS, and they are claiming that it’s the best they can do. I would like to purchase from a single place, and I believe in helping those that help you. I’m looking at roughly $4-500 difference though. Also, Cruiser has the engine parts that I need. Dilemmas!
Also, I’ve decided to not get rear shafts yet. Those can be installed anytime really easily. I’m going to be getting complete Nitro fronts and RCV drive flanges. I’m ditching the ARP hardware also. I don’t think that I’ll be needing it for some time. I need to save where possible for armor.

 

[JDMRedhead]

I posted an update over in the “what did you do with your cruiser” thread.

I found 2 chipped teeth on the front diff, and only some rust scoring on the rear. My rear axle housing has some rust inside around the breather. This might be what I found on the magnets. Also, it’s pretty evident that my truck spent some time in the water. I have noticeable water/rust lines in both diff housings. This water intrusion is probably what weakened the gears. My slider/shift fork for the rear locker also has rust on it, and could be the reason why it is lazy about locking.
I have found out the my diff ratios are 4.10 and that I 100% have under drive high, and low, gears in the transfer case. I’m trying to figure out what ratio to get. I’m leaning towards 4.88s and switch my tcase high gear to the overdrive one. This would put me about 50rpm less at 70, 2275rpm. I would leave in the crawler low gear, and would be way better off with the 4.88s. I would just have to spend extra $$$ to get this done.

 

[WILLD420]

You have multiple options open to you right now. Do it right the first time, do it 3/4 of the way or fix only what is broken and continue saving funds. I've done it all 3 ways before. A little rust isn't a deal breaker unless it's eating bearings. You can always just fix exactly the broken things, clean the rest up, throw in an extra magnet to catch anything you missed and drive on for awhile. Is it perfect or preferred? No. But sometimes we have to live with what we have and what we need falls out of the sky in the way of the Mud classifieds or clearance deals.