Hewitt Technologies - SAIS Bypass (3 Viewers)

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Maybe I’m missing something, but, can I completely remove the SAIS hardware installing the full gen 2 kit? Less clutter in the engine bay is a desire of mine. Plus with it being bypassed what’s the point in keeping it? Mine is functioning perfectly on our ‘08 470 but I like preemptive maintenance rather than reactionary maintenance.
Yes and No. In general. the only things that cannot be be removed with the Gen-II kits are the pressure sensors. Everything on a "3 Valve 4.7L" vehicle is located underneath the intake manifold, so unless you already have it off or just REALLY want to eliminate it all the system components are normally just left in place.
If you did want to remove everything on a 3 Valve vehicle you would just need to unbolt the pressure sensor from the main electric air switching valve and leave it connected. You could then remove the air pump, the main electric air switching valve (sensor remaining), the two No.2 vacuum actuated air switching valves at the back, the rubber air tubes and the stainless air tubes that go to the exhaust manifolds. The air injection control driver is removed and replaced with the Gen-II unit itself but the pump fuse can also be removed. There is a large 2 wire connector that gets one of our custom plug caps but it could be removed as well if you really wanted to. Just cap it and tuck it out of the way though.
If you wanted to remove the ENTIRE system on a 3 Valve 4.7L you would need a GenII-3V kit and a PSRW (harness only and you can reuse your existing sensor with it) that would move the factory sensor from under the intake manifold to the ECM where you would wire it in with the three wires of the GenII-3V kit. Then you would have absolutely nothing of the secondary air system remaining under the intake manifold except two disconnected plugs.
 
I've been getting an occasional P1442 code of a valve being stuck closed. I've been ignoring it for the time being because if the ambient temp is below 40 when I first start it up in the morning, it doesn't happen (the shop vac noise),. I'm reluctant to work on it outside during the winter. If it gets fully warmed up and the vehicle then sits long enough for the coolant totemp to drop low and the ambient temp is above 40, then I'll hear it. That suggests to me that the valve is sticking because it's gummed with something. Is that possible? Is it possible to inject some solvent in there to relieve the issue?
 
I've been getting an occasional P1442 code of a valve being stuck closed. I've been ignoring it for the time being because if the ambient temp is below 40 when I first start it up in the morning, it doesn't happen (the shop vac noise),. I'm reluctant to work on it outside during the winter. If it gets fully warmed up and the vehicle then sits long enough for the coolant totemp to drop low and the ambient temp is above 40, then I'll hear it. That suggests to me that the valve is sticking because it's gummed with something. Is that possible? Is it possible to inject some solvent in there to relieve the issue?
That sounds is the pump failing. The valves are usually corroded or bound up with carbon or melted plastic from the pump vanes. Since you have to pull the intake to get to them (3 valve 4.7l) it isn't worth the trouble trying to clean and free them up. People have tried but the chances of it working or lasting long enough just isn't worth the trouble.
 
That sounds is the pump failing. The valves are usually corroded or bound up with carbon or melted plastic from the pump vanes. Since you have to pull the intake to get to them (3 valve 4.7l) it isn't worth the trouble trying to clean and free them up. People have tried but the chances of it working or lasting long enough just isn't worth the trouble.
Thanks for the response. Aside from the possibility of a valve getting stuck open, is there any other larger running issues with any of the SAIS components failing?
 
Thanks for the response. Aside from the possibility of a valve getting stuck open, is there any other larger running issues with any of the SAIS components failing?
Being in limp mode from the valve stuck open codes is the biggest issue for most. You will be running baseline fuel/timing maps and your transmission will not shift correctly. For most this will cause a very noticable drop in MPGs. For the three valve 4.7L the next most common failure is the air pump motor. This usually happens after continuing to let the system run after you start hearing the pump making noise on startup. Not always the case but typical progression. If the pump motor burns itself out the GenI kits need the PPP and you have the potential of it taking the air injection control driver and pump fuse with it which would need to be replaced to use a GenI unit but not a GenII kit. Issue: additional cost.
The pressure sensors getting damaged are another considerable problem but more for the vehicles like all the 4.0L, 4.6 and 5.7L. This is because they have the newer style system where each air switching valve has a pressure sensor in it and those are much easier to damage by continuing to drive with a failing secondary air system. Regardless of the bypass kits those need to be working. We have pressure sensor solutions for them all but is not much of an issue on the 3 valve 4.7L. Usually when we see a sensor code on them it is wire damaged by rodents but we still have a solution vs pulling the intake.
A common concern and some think will cause an issue is that not having an operating SAIS will damage your cats. It absolutely will not dmage the cats by not having an operating system. They will still get up to temperature like normal it just takes a tad longer on your first cold soak start (1st start after the engine has been off for at least 7 hrs.). The system won't run at startup the rest of the day so it isn't goign to affect them one bit with it not running that one time. There have been claims that plastic from the pump or debris from the valves has gotten into the cats and damaged them which is possible but not something we see. You run a larger risk of misfires and too rich codes damaging the cats from excessive raw fuel making their way to the catalyst beds and overheating them.
 
It's warm enough to start working on the car again -- looking to get the SAIS bypass kit. Any chance IH8MUD can get another discount code?
That would be great if another discount was offered. Getting warm enough to work on the car.
 
It's warm enough to start working on the car again -- looking to get the SAIS bypass kit. Any chance IH8MUD can get another discount code?
That would be great if another discount was offered. Getting warm enough to work on the car.
I didn't realize the IH8MUD coupon expired... So I have reactivated it. Use coupon code "ih8mud10" to get 10% off a bypass kit . Coupon applies to one V36H, V54H, GenII or GenII-3V kit per order. Does not apply to kit add-ons or other products and cannot be used in conjunction with any other discounts (dealers). Expires at midnight 6.30.2021
 
I didn't realize the IH8MUD coupon expired... So I have reactivated it. Use coupon code "ih8mud10" to get 10% off a bypass kit . Coupon applies to one V36H, V54H, GenII or GenII-3V kit per order. Does not apply to kit add-ons or other products and cannot be used in conjunction with any other discounts (dealers). Expires at midnight 6.30.2021
Thanks! I actually already ordered it, and received it on Thursday -- am putting it on today. But thank you!!!
 
Ordered for my 07 and will be installing ASAP. Easiest acces to put in blocker plates is through the wheel well, correct?
 
I have the kit, but haven't installed it yet, mainly because the install of the block off plates is going to be a problem due to corrosion. Can I install the wiring kit first? Or does it all have to be done simultaneously? Is there any advantage to installing the bypass kit without the block off plates?

Thanks for all your help with this.
 
I have the kit, but haven't installed it yet, mainly because the install of the block off plates is going to be a problem due to corrosion. Can I install the wiring kit first? Or does it all have to be done simultaneously? Is there any advantage to installing the bypass kit without the block off plates?

Thanks for all your help with this.
My passenger side studs broke. Beam clamp is holding it for now.
 
My passenger side studs broke. Beam clamp is holding it for now.
That'll be a risk for me as well, that's why I'm asking whether it'll help to install the bypass kit before the block off plates.
 
That'll be a risk for me as well, that's why I'm asking whether it'll help to install the bypass kit before the block off plates.
Yes, you can install the bypass modules before the plates. You may be able to get by without the plates but if you get a valve stuck open code at that point you need to get the plates installed. Even if you don't have or get any valve stuck open codes, it is still best to install the plates with the module. The valves can and do leak later on down the road so you would have to do it then anyway. Just better to do them and not worry about it.
Make sure you clean the exposed stud threads really well with a wire brush and soak them with PB/Kroil/etc.. before you start.
That will minimize the chance of breaking one. Just don't apply too much torque too fast to them, stainless doesn't like to be shocked like that and they will break or twist off. Before you break one off you could also try a nut splitter tool or a dremel type cutoff wheel to cut the nut off. Trust me that is a lot easier than removing a manifold or drilling out the stud to tap a new one in there.
 
Yes, you can install the bypass modules before the plates. You may be able to get by without the plates but if you get a valve stuck open code at that point you need to get the plates installed. Even if you don't have or get any valve stuck open codes, it is still best to install the plates with the module. The valves can and do leak later on down the road so you would have to do it then anyway. Just better to do them and not worry about it.
Make sure you clean the exposed stud threads really well with a wire brush and soak them with PB/Kroil/etc.. before you start.
That will minimize the chance of breaking one. Just don't apply too much torque too fast to them, stainless doesn't like to be shocked like that and they will break or twist off. Before you break one off you could also try a nut splitter tool or a dremel type cutoff wheel to cut the nut off. Trust me that is a lot easier than removing a manifold or drilling out the stud to tap a new one in there.
I was very worried about the plates. I used PB blaster three times over three days and then waited a week. I was not driving the vehhicle. The plates were a piece of cake through the fender with the wheel off. When I sat down to do the plates and wondered if I should do this I had a half dozen different 10 mm wrenches and sockets. I had been thinking access and clearance would be an issue so I had ordered a short open and closed end wrench. For once I used caution rather than force and used the short wrench first and put not much pressure ( don't know what the torque value would be using this 4 inch wrench) and then a little more and the nut broke loose with a reassuring feeling. I believe I read it here that the torque values were in the high teens or low twenties. This is just by memory and it may be wrong so I knew it was a light touch. All four bolts came off easily and with equal pressure. My nuts and bolts were not corroded and like I said PB blaster more than once. Hardest part was taking the wheels off, heavy, jack stands just for five minute process on the first side and maybe three on the other. Hopefully it goes well for others. As a side the kit has been unobtrusive in day to day driving.
 
Thanks guys, I'll be careful with the studs. I've got a lot of experience removing rusted bolts, I'm rehabbing an '82 FJ40, which spent it's entire lfe in VT, and I only broke tree bolts stipping the whole thing down to the frame. :) I'll go ahead and instll the bypass kit first and start soaking the studs.
 
Lucky! I did the same. Driver side, like butter, passenger side, below the a/c drain off the firewall, snapped the first, had a retired mechanic try the second...snap. those studs are small. Giving me an excuse to get headers...after I can get some error codes to disappear.
 
I installed the kit today finally. The install wasn't't difficult at all, though I haven't done the block off plates yet since my only SAIS code was P1442. Also, I chose to use the scotchlok connectors because I'm old and didn't feel like trying to solder small wires while lying on my back in a foot well. Hopefully they won't cause me problems down the road. I probably should have suited some dielectric grease in them before I buttoned it all back up. After the install it's been running well, and seemed to even have fixed some slipping in Drive between first and second gears that cropped up a week or so ago (P0894 & P2714). Of course the fix may simply be coincidental, but I tried to make it happen and couldn't. :) I'll probably change the tranny fluid as soon as I can get some free time.

Thanks Hewitt Tech for a great product and your help on the forum here.
 

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