OME vs OEM Shocks Best Budget Setup (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I hate to break the OEM jive here, I also have OME shocks and I think they could be the culprit for the harsh ride. I have about 50k on them and I think I can't stand them anymore.

Thinking about going full on Kings (Icon are harsh too) but really can't justify the price and ROI for a 17 year old truck. Also I don't want to spend $3k on a set of shocks which needs tune up every other years. And I'd rather just replace the shocks than to rebuild them. Before I pull the trigger for OEM for only a couple Benjamin, did anyone have or had experience with the Bilstein 5160 or 4600?
I’ve not run either of those Bilsteins on my 100, but the 4600s actually have slightly less travel than both OEM and OME shocks. Shock Length Thread
 
Unless you 4wheel really really hard the OEMs are awful nice. I went with the Dobinsons' cause I put a rear bumper on and wanted the full extension with my SPC UCAs in the front.
 
I hate to break the OEM jive here, I also have OME shocks and I think they could be the culprit for the harsh ride. I have about 50k on them and I think I can't stand them anymore.

Thinking about going full on Kings (Icon are harsh too) but really can't justify the price and ROI for a 17 year old truck. Also I don't want to spend $3k on a set of shocks which needs tune up every other years. And I'd rather just replace the shocks than to rebuild them. Before I pull the trigger for OEM for only a couple Benjamin, did anyone have or had experience with the Bilstein 5160 or 4600?
I've had the bilstein 4600s on a 2003 Chevrolet Avalanche and I really liked how it rode. It felt really planted and was not harsh. I have ordered 4600s for my LX470 and hoping to use them with the 2860 springs and ARB/OME torsion bars for 2" lift.
 
I've had the bilstein 4600s on a 2003 Chevrolet Avalanche and I really liked how it rode. It felt really planted and was not harsh. I have ordered 4600s for my LX470 and hoping to use them with the 2860 springs and ARB/OME torsion bars for 2" lift.
Hey, I'm thinking of potentially going with the same setup. Only thing is I have a diesel, do you think the OME torsion bars will be suited for the extra weight? I'm not planning on running an aftermarket front bumper for now, so I figured that should be reasonable weight for it to handle - thoughts on that? Also are the 2860s designed to hold more weight than the 2865s?
 
Cant beat oem for the price. Do it the ride is lush.
Where are you guys getting the OEM shocks for $40? That seems so much cheaper than what I see here... But I'm in Canada - still the price shouldn't be that much different...
 
Where are you guys getting the OEM shocks for $40? That seems so much cheaper than what I see here... But I'm in Canada - still the price shouldn't be that much different...
 
For those of you have swapped out the OME shocks with OEM shocks, can you please share what additional bushings or retainers you had to also purchase? Are any of those that are installed with the OME reusable? I'm ready to make the switch because I can't take the jarring any more as I don't have any extra weight on my truck. Thank you in advance for your help!
 
For those of you have swapped out the OME shocks with OEM shocks, can you please share what additional bushings or retainers you had to also purchase? Are any of those that are installed with the OME reusable? I'm ready to make the switch because I can't take the jarring any more as I don't have any extra weight on my truck. Thank you in advance for your help!
I got the list off the forums here and it worked perfectly. Ome bushings not as good as toyota, nice and comfortable
 
Suspension setup:
OME 2865 springs
OE Torsion bars
OME Nitro sport shocks
Trail Tailor extended links

My experience:
I just swapped out my OME shocks(used 1+ yrs)for new OE. I wanted a better ride on my terrible city streets. The new shocks ride great. There is more lean in turns but worth it not to feel every pebble in the road. The OME ride felt like old Wrangler rather than a LC. Which is not my intent.

If you’re on the fence I’d do it. Only $200 for all four corners.
 
I have the same setup as @Connorham together with the Slee diff drop. Purchased the Ironman Cell Foam pending install, will report.
 
Has anyone used OEM shocks with OME 860 rear springs?
 
Yep, no issues. The 860s are the same length as factory coils.
Bumping an old thread here, but the 860s are advertised as providing 2-2.5" lift. Not sure how that's the case if they are the same as factory length. I'm leaning towards doing this myself when I replace the shocks before too long.

Also, are you using OEM front springs or a different set?
 
the 860s are advertised as providing 2-2.5" lift. Not sure how that's the case if they are the same as factory length.

If I remember correctly, the spring rate for the OME 860/2860 is ~220lb/in, where the OE coil spring rate is ~170lb/in. The weight of the truck compresses the OE coils more that the OME coils.
 
If I remember correctly, the spring rate for the OME 860/2860 is ~220lb/in, where the OE coil spring rate is ~170lb/in. The weight of the truck compresses the OE coils more that the OME coils.
Thanks! Makes perfect sense - I did a quick search for the OEM spring rate and didn't come across it and wasn't sure the difference.

Follow-up question - at that height difference, if I were to replace all four springs with the 860s, is a diff drop recommended/necessary?
 
Thanks! Makes perfect sense - I did a quick search for the OEM spring rate and didn't come across it and wasn't sure the difference.

Follow-up question - at that height difference, if I were to replace all four springs with the 860s, is a diff drop recommended/necessary?

Either you live outside the USA, and have access to the 105 series, or you haven’t looked up under the frontend enough to figure out the the 100 series has torsion bars for springs on the frontend 😁. If you’re asking about a “diff drop” it must be the latter.

A diff drop comes into play as you crank the torsion bars to lift the frontend over ~1.5”, and increase the CV axle angles at rest. Some will argue that the diff drop is a waste of money, or “what do you gain with additional lift, if you lower the diff”, but they seem like cheap insurance to me, and I have them on all three of mine ( at 1”, 1.5”, and 2” of front lift on my three). If I remember correctly, OE CV axles are ~$600 each, and a diff drop is $275-300, if I can show some sympathy for the CV axles, maybe they’ll last a little longer.
 
Last edited:
you haven’t looked up under the frontend enough to figure out the the 100 series has torsion bars for springs on the frontend 😁
You would be correct lol - I'm a suspension idiot. Aware of the torsion bars, assumed there were still some other springs too. :bang:

That's what I was guessing though - diff drop wouldn't hurt at least. Would like to not tear CV boots or otherwise overly stress anything because of the angle difference and wasn't sure how much lift typically would change that angle enough to justify it.
 
You would be correct lol - I'm a suspension idiot. Aware of the torsion bars, assumed there were still some other springs too. :bang:

That's what I was guessing though - diff drop wouldn't hurt at least. Would like to not tear CV boots or otherwise overly stress anything because of the angle difference and wasn't sure how much lift typically would change that angle enough to justify it.

I believe the rule of thumb is >1-1.5” of frontend lift, but I’m sure that you’ll find outlying opinions on either side of that number.

I believe that this is the “original” diff drop thread on this site:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom