Price on Used Axle assemblies with OEM lockers. Thoughts? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 11, 2020
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Location
Baton Rouge, LA
I'm looking for some quick responses to a price on front and rear axles with oem lockers. This would include the differential switch, locker ecu, and are from hub to hub. No rust. Came from a cruiser with 130k on it with no offroad wear.

I can pick up the whole shabang for 3k.

Too high? Just right? Or a sweet deal?
 
It’s not a bad price. You used to be able to pick them up for about $1000 front and $400 rear but they are getting more rare. If everything is together and in good shape maybe offer $2500 and just see if he takes it.
 
He's not budging on the price. Seems like he knows what he has. If the axles spin freely, is there much else to check?
 
That’s a decent price. May be able to knock $300 off if the front needs a rebuild and shows oil leaks. Now you need to test the actuators and there are ways to do that with a simple battery source. If you can’t test the locker actuators for front and rear, knock $1000 off. Don’t forget you need the harness from the rear axle which has both actuator and abs built in. That is NLM and even the main harness going along the DS. Those 2 harnesses aren’t cheap or else you need to see 12v guy to make this work.

PS. I have 2 rear lockers for parts if you need to buy some :rofl:
 
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After some searching I see that the FSM cautions against using battery voltage to test the actuators. Any quick and easy tips to do this? Definitely don't want to burn out the actuator.

And I'm unable to find a part number for the locker ECU. Anyone have a number handy?
 
E locker ecu part number is 89533-60030 or 17960–00083

you really should test the actuator and verify they lock. The rear could have twisted splines which is not easy to repair.
 
Thank you @lp2k for the part numbers.

Is it as simple as Pin 2 on positive to Unlock, Pin 3 on positive to Lock? That's what I've found. The junkyard is a ways away from me so I'm trying to have him test it before I drive there.

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3K and then i would budget another 500 just to rebuild the axles and fill with fluids and that doesnt cover the 1k if they dont lock or the time and money if the rear splines are bent and stuck and then you would need to wire them... factory lockers are meh to me.

while my built truck is factory locked i got it before i knew better. if i was doing it again i would have sold my factory lockers for way more than they are worth to someone that cant stand a OmG nOt TrIpLe LoCkEd truck and gone after market. the lunch box rear is great for 99% of people. if you need more get ARB/Eaton up front or if you ride in snow a lot then ARB/Eaton F/R.

having used my buddy's truck with ARB lockers i H A T E my factory ones. his insta lock and unlock. tey are stronger than stock. if OEM everything was so grea then we wouldnt mod our trucks right :D

sure he has had an air leak before but i had to replace both actuators and let me tell you thats not cheap.
 
having used my buddy's truck with ARB lockers i H A T E my factory ones.
I think "hate" is too strong a word. I just get a little sad frowny face each time I have to use mine.
 
@slow95z I've read a lot about the pros and cons of factory lockers and personally prefer the least amount of aftermarket stuff on my cars as possible. Just a preference. I also think factory lockers hold a lot more value when selling a LC than an aftermarket. And that's something I'm always considering.

With that said, is 3k a fair price for what I'm describing? You've parted out lots of cruisers.
 
What I sell for them for is whatever that market will stand. Personally I have stopped buying locked trucks since people want 5k for one a tree fell on because of lockers. Just not worth it anymore, can't make any money on a locked rig
 
I think "hate" is too strong a word. I just get a little sad frowny face each time I have to use mine.
When you have had at least 100 80s cross your hands and know you could have gone a different way 100 times it kinda makes you mad. live and learn, die and forget it all.
 
Fair is a factor of two things, price and opportunity. How often do you see them and is the timing and distance right?
I see them all the time but now people pay too much money for them so I don't even bother. I mean no joke, I am picking up 3 cruisers tomorrow for 2750. All unlocked and most likely will part at least 2 and build a good one out of the three to flip. It's how I spend my time and make my extra money. None of them are currently running so price reflects that.

A single locked truck, rusted, blown head gasket, torn seats and who knows what else would fetch 5k just because it's locked. Not worth my time to even try when I, someone in the business of making money off of them, can get unlocked one for 1/5 the price.

Unlocked fenders and unlocked headlights sell for just as much as triple locked versions.

If you are willing to pay 3k for them then they are worth the asking price just get ready to spend at least 500 more, if not 1500, plus 4 hours at best, 20 hours at worst, to get them in good shape and in your truck and working with the dial. You know you it's not just plug and play right? The wires aren't there and will need to be run to the rear.
 
I see them all the time but now people pay too much money for them so I don't even bother. I mean no joke, I am picking up 3 cruisers tomorrow for 2750. All unlocked and most likely will part at least 2 and build a good one out of the three to flip. It's how I spend my time and make my extra money. None of them are currently running so price reflects that.

A single locked truck, rusted, blown head gasket, torn seats and who knows what else would fetch 5k just because it's locked. Not worth my time to even try when I, someone in the business of making money off of them, can get unlocked one for 1/5 the price.

Unlocked fenders and unlocked headlights sell for just as much as triple locked versions.

If you are willing to pay 3k for them then they are worth the asking price just get ready to spend at least 500 more, if not 1500, plus 4 hours at best, 20 hours at worst, to get them in good shape and in your truck and working with the dial. You know you it's not just plug and play right? The wires aren't there and will need to be run to the rear.
I buy two Cruisers at times of peace.
I buy two Cruisers at times of war.

I buy two Cruisers before I buy two Cruisers.
Then I buy two more!

That reminds me. Do you have the through shaft and gear for a passenger power seat? I buggered mine s while back when pressing off the plastic gear.
 
That reminds me. Do you have the through shaft and gear for a passenger power seat? I buggered mine s while back when pressing off the plastic gear.
I can't promise the gear is any good but I know I have everything else. People always end up forcing the seat back and tear up both sides.
 
Yes, I'm familiar with the wiring, plugs, and additional work that goes into it. But this thread is seeming to be sidetracked. I guess I'm asking specifically for the prices people have paid for axles in the past, but then again, MUD members seem to avoid talking about the price of stuff.

I'm familiar with the whole "it's worth whatever someone will pay for it." But this isn't a Faberge Egg or a Da Vinci painting. Lots of these trade hands and I'm trying to get an idea of what's reasonable and what's insane.
 
The sets I sold in the past went for 2k, that was hub to hunt with dial ecu and axle harnesses.

That was also before the current price increases in 80s. I personally would not pay 3k for them but that might be the going rate.
 

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