Builds "Kiboko" - Texas family hunting/fishing adventure truck (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Threads
7
Messages
68
Location
Houston, TX
Haters of Mud,

Wanted to introduce y'all to "Kiboko," our 2021 Toyota Land Cruiser in Magnetic Gray Metallic on Black. "Kiboko" is Swahili for hippopotamus, and I thought that was a pretty dead on name for this ~6000lb gray tool/toy which will spend a good part of its life wallowing in water and mud.

I am an avid hunter, my wife is an excellent amateur photographer (IMO), and we both are fairly obsessed w/ fishing, so the "mission statement" of sorts is to build a road-trip truck that can get us, our dog, (occasionally) our cat, and a ton of gear from our Houston home base to remote and spectacular places to enjoy the great outdoors and our favorite hobbies (mostly in S TX and Utah). We have access to more rugged and purpose built trucks to get around the South Texas ranches where we spend quite a bit of our free time, but my wife has made it pretty clear that having her teeth rattled out by a 1977 Jeep Wagoneer on rancher-approved suspension is not going to cut it anymore for cocktail cruises. Fine by me... there was just enough daylight there to pitch this build to her!

Think of the objective here then as getting you to reasonable off-road destinations and letting you explore, but it's not really for long-term off-grid camping or hardcore off-roading (yet?).

We started w/ the idea of a restomod FJ62 (seriously considering a "142"), but the limitations on building a cost-effective long-distance restomod rig to get to Utah from Houston nixed that idea. So we agreed a deal w/ a Houston dealer in November who had an inbound gray truck swapped for his white truck in inventory, but when the vehicle arrived in Houston port in December, it was held up by some COVID related delay (or so we were told, not 100% sure what really happened tbh). Anyway, nearly 2 months later, we have finally taken delivery and are ready to turn her over to Duggy's Garage here in Houston who has been patiently waiting to install the parts they have been stockpiling for us.

A very special thank you to the people who have helped me get here (read fueled this absurd series of decisions): Nolen @wngrog , @radman , Duc and Devin at @duggy , Eric @Eric Sarjeant and @Bullgump. The most important of these shout outs goes to Duggy's Garage who will be doing 95% of the work to this truck. Nice to have the home town team so highly recommended and on the job.

The purpose of this thread is twofold: 1) document the build to solicit feedback or let others replicate what they liked (not like I reinvented the wheel here, and everything learned is from others on Mud) and 2) provide a platform to post pictures of the adventures we take Kiboko on (also available on Instagram @kibokoLC). Not sure what the appetite is for either of these, but we shall see...

Below are the build plans/parts. Phase 1 is basically locked in, but in general almost all feedback is almost always welcome. And even once installed, everything here is subject to change based on my own fickle mind or (hopefully) the valuable input of others.

Enjoy, Peterson
  • Phase 1 (beginning imminently)
    • Front Bumper: ARB Summit
    • Winch: Warn VR EVO 12-S
    • Front Bumper Fog Lights: Rigid Dually Series Spot LED in GREEN (so we can drive around the ranch and not spook animals)
    • Sliders: Slee SliderSteps
    • Drawers: ARB w/ 1 fixed, 1 roller, and fit kit
    • Suspension: BP-51 w/ SPC UCAs (seems like people argue over this like religion!)
    • Springs: 2723 (undecided here, w/ just the 12.5g LRA + drawers and no rear bumper, opinions seem to vary)
    • Roof Rack: Prinsu w/ 40" cutout
    • Rack Light: Rigid SRpro 40"
    • Scene Lights on Rack: Rigid diffused Left/Right/Rear
    • Cargo Light: National Luna Red/White
    • Wheels: Method Racing 314s (17x8.5 5x150s w/ 0off) in Matte Blk
    • Tires: BFG KO2s 285/70R17 116S C1 BSW
    • Switches: SwitchPro 9100
    • Battery: Slee u/g to group 31, Odyssey ODX-AGM31M (w/o fridge or other big draws and not really camping, assume don't need dual-batteries, open to input here...)
    • Fuel Tank: LRA 12.5g (wanted to retain stock spare b/c no rear bumper)
  • Phase 2 (when I make up my mind)
    • Skids: open to feedback here based on the use case... between ARB or Slee, don't want to pay for aluminum, don't rock crawl
    • Awning: open to feedback here... have not made up mind yet on brand, just want something easy to take off completely/quickly
  • Phase 3 (call it the idea list, only if am convinced by Mud or use case changes)
    • CarPlay: seems like the Naviplus system is a big hit, if everyone likes it w/o issues will prob add
    • Air: ARB dual compressor (have access to big industrial air most places I would go so not a priority)
    • Snorkel: Fabulous Fabrications w/ Aussie airbox looks the coolest to me but haven't seen one in person
    • Diff Breathers: water gets pretty high some of the fishing we do, but doesn't seem consensus on Mud that they're necessary
    • 2nd Battery: only if have failures that a NOCO can't fix
    • Front/Rear Air Locker: only if we find ourselves really pushing the truck
    • Gears: only if the power is underwhelming and/or we have the truck open for lockers anyway

Day One Picture (bought 20210113)
Kiboko 20210113.jpg


Current Picture (updated 20200304)
Kiboko 20210224 CROP.jpg
 
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Ha. Thanks for the shout out. I don’t come in this forum much because I end up yelling at someone arguing about the proper floor mats and then they cry to Woody and I sulk off.

I like your plan.

My input as someone that does similar off roading as y’all have planned.

I’ve been very unhappy with my latest KO2s. I would explore some other tire options. It seems like they are not what they used to be. My current Toyo AT3 are pretty impressive as are Nitto Ridge Grapplers

You absolutely do not need a second battery. Don’t go jacking up that new Toyota wiring with all that. Get a jump pack or two and peel out.

I would not spend the money or weight gain on skid plates personally.

Awning. Any of the stand alone 270* ones. I have a fox wing 270 but if I had to do it over I would get a AluCab or similar that does not need poles

The crawl control is fantastic on these trucks and can outdrive 90% of
People with lockers. You have zero “need” for lockers and gears for what you have planned for this thing.
 
And here I thought you only came over here to find out which vent style phone mount you need @wngrog :flipoff2:

But to add to his points, there's a group buy for BudBuilt skids so you can offset the cost of Aluminum (if its not over yet). Crawl Control is pretty great until your in the soupy stuff where only lockers will get you out. Haven't ventured over to that side of the states to wheel yet, but on the east coast I've been in a few situations where I wouldn't needed a winch if I had lockers. But might as well enjoy it with your baseline mods and see if you actually get in enough situations that you need it, which you might not if your intent isn't taking it to trails to test the limits with the 200. If you do go with ARB lockers that takes care of your compressor issue since you'll need to buy that as well. If you don't want to go with lockers and want a compressor VIAIR compressors are great and half the price of the ARB twin.

Looking forward to how it looks and where you venture to.
 
  • Wheels: Method Racing 314s (17x8.5 5x150s w/ 0off) in Matte Blk

Hi and welcome to the fold.

No hate, but I'd encourage you to revisit the choice for 0 offset. Is there a particular reason?
Our cars come stock with high offset wheels. 0 offset may be more trouble than it's worth as it's going to invite all sorts of funny things including clearance problems with the body mount just aft of the front tires, and potentially contact with the fenders as max stuff. It'll also limit your ability to go with taller tires in the future (tall tires work great on this rig btw)

+25 is about as aggressive as most go
 
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Ha. Thanks for the shout out. I don’t come in this forum much because I end up yelling at someone arguing about the proper floor mats and then they cry to Woody and I sulk off.

I like your plan.

My input as someone that does similar off roading as y’all have planned.

I’ve been very unhappy with my latest KO2s. I would explore some other tire options. It seems like they are not what they used to be. My current Toyo AT3 are pretty impressive as are Nitto Ridge Grapplers

You absolutely do not need a second battery. Don’t go jacking up that new Toyota wiring with all that. Get a jump pack or two and peel out.

I would not spend the money or weight gain on skid plates personally.

Awning. Any of the stand alone 270* ones. I have a fox wing 270 but if I had to do it over I would get a AluCab or similar that does not need poles

The crawl control is fantastic on these trucks and can outdrive 90% of
People with lockers. You have zero “need” for lockers and gears for what you have planned for this thing.
Appreciate the input, good to know on the tires but those were ordered. Regarding the rest of the stuff, glad you agree with my path on the “don’t needs” for now. We can run her through her paces once outfitted.
 
Ohh snap!

Just to jack with your plans... since the 24 aux is the same price as the 12.5, you could ditch the spare altogether and slap on a Wilco hitch carrier when you go on trips 🤷🏻‍♂️

Post in thread 'The Drifter - 2019 Build Thread'
Builds - The Drifter - 2019 Build Thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-drifter-2019-build-thread.1140630/post-13228631

Also, I really liked the Fabolous dorkel, and might go in on getting 2 of them shipped here....
I have little experience over more aggressive terrain (e.g., jagged rocks) but in mud/down trees/mesquite I have never ripped a tire. I have punctured a KO2 before, but a nail is an easy fix. I think you’re right given when I am going to use the 24gal.

and in for the Fabulous. I don’t know how to get hands on the Aussie box but sure we can figure that part out.
 
Hi and welcome to the fold.

No hate, but I'd encourage you to revisit the choice for 0 offset. Is there a particular reason?
Our cars come stock with high offset wheels. 0 offset may be more trouble than it's worth as it's going to invite all sorts of funny things including clearance problems with the body mount just aft of the front tires, and potentially contact with the fenders as max stuff. It'll also limit your ability to go with taller tires in the future (tall tires work great on this rig btw)

+25 is about as aggressive as most go
Hear you on the tall tires and “push it to the limit” clearance. But as I understand it there is no downside to suspension performance or driving dynamics. Is that not the case? Would def want to know if you think otherwise.
 
I think you made an excellent choice in terms of color combination. Pretty much identical to what we picked up two weeks ago...

20201228_151206.jpg


20201228_145752.jpg


20201230_113620.jpg


I'm planning a couple of upgrades, myself. Looking forward to seeing your progress!
 
Hear you on the tall tires and “push it to the limit” clearance. But as I understand it there is no downside to suspension performance or driving dynamics. Is that not the case? Would def want to know if you think otherwise.

Would love to say that it's not the case, but indeed there are suspension geometry, handling, and cornering impacts with non-optimal offsets. Durability as well.

This is due to scrub radius geometry and it's alignment with the center of the tire contact patch. Which has dependencies on tire diameter and offset. Without diving too far into the geometry of it...

The degree to which these symptoms manifest depends on how far off the offset is
- Steering can pull in acceleration and braking, particularly on uneven terrain. The more it is off, the more braking or acceleration that is applied, the more potential for the steering to pull
- Cornering traction is compromised as the two tires at the front axle don't point at exactly the same intended path. This can be dramatic in snow or icy conditions as the tires don't work together forcing them to break traction more easily. May notice in things as simple as sharp turns in a parking garage where the tires squeal more as they fight each other directionally.
- Durability as it puts more leverage on the wheel bearings. It also channels more forces onto the steering rack

Optimally for a 285/70R17, or 32.8" tire, offset would be approx. +45.
 
I’m going to agree with the above statement. The biggest goofs I’ve seen on 100/200 series Land Cruisers is with wheels. They will ruin a formula very fast. Take heed.
 
Would love to say that it's not the case, but indeed there are suspension geometry, handling, and cornering impacts with non-optimal offsets. Durability as well.

This is due to scrub radius geometry and it's alignment with the center of the tire contact patch. Which has dependencies on tire diameter and offset. Without diving too far into the geometry of it...

The degree to which these symptoms manifest depends on how far off the offset is
- Steering can pull in acceleration and braking, particularly on uneven terrain. The more it is off, the more braking or acceleration that is applied, the more potential for the steering to pull
- Cornering traction is compromised as the two tires at the front axle don't point at exactly the same intended path. This can be dramatic in snow or icy conditions as the tires don't work together forcing them to break traction more easily. May notice in things as simple as sharp turns in a parking garage where the tires squeal more as they fight each other directionally.
- Durability as it puts more leverage on the wheel bearings. It also channels more forces onto the steering rack

Optimally for a 285/70R17, or 32.8" tire, offset would be approx. +45.
Damn. One, tyvm. Two, let me talk to Disc Tire about this order real quick...

One follow up, can you mitagte they impact with any relatively easy mod? Or does it all work in concert so much that you really just need to choose a better offset?
 
Welcome and congrats on the new 200. Looking forward to seeing your build completed. What parts of south Texas do y'all frequent? We have a few properties down south as well and our 200 and GX see time out on the ranch roads as well.
 
Regarding wheels, I have considered an upgrade from stock too, but I am partial to the forged TRD Pro BBS wheels. Like those on the Heritage, but in black, or maybe even powder coated like with some of the amazing builds that @Eric Sarjeant has put together.

For me, I think the slight weight savings with the forged wheels is the most tangible non-aesthetic improvement from the stock wheels. I'm not sure yet whether that's enough to drive me to upgrade. To my eye, the stock 2021 LC wheels look pretty nice. I may end up with a slightly taller tire and 1.5" Bilstein 6112 setup and call it a day. Personally, I'm also a bit leery of messing with spacers / offset, for the reasons mentioned.
 
Welcome and congrats on the new 200. Looking forward to seeing your build completed. What parts of south Texas do y'all frequent? We have a few properties down south as well and our 200 and GX see time out on the ranch roads as well.
Ty, and Campbellton (cattle and deer) and George West (exotics and deer) specifically. 45min ranch to ranch, but terrain changes quite a bit. Campbellton is in that coal seam land. Lots of water rentention and gross-can-never-get-out-clay-mud. George West starts to transition more towards the sandy soil and mesquite landscape of true S Texas.

how about y’all?
 
Damn. One, tyvm. Two, let me talk to Disc Tire about this order real quick...

One follow up, can you mitagte they impact with any relatively easy mod? Or does it all work in concert so much that you really just need to choose a better offset?

No problemo. Your build looks well thought out otherwise and I'm looking forward to the progression.

Going larger diameter tires would want lower offsets. But even a full 35" tire only wants about +30mm ish offset. Short answer is there's no easy mitigation to this.
 
No problemo. Your build looks well thought out otherwise and I'm looking forward to the progression.

Going larger diameter tires would want lower offsets. But even a full 35" tire only wants about +30mm ish offset. Short answer is there's no easy mitigation to this.
I was deciding between 17s for the..

1. Braid Winrace T 17x7.5 -5
2. Eco Corse Dakar Zero 17x8.0 +40
3. ORally Raid 17x8.0 +30
4. Method 314 17x8.5 +0

if I want to keep the rally style and the sidewall to wheel ratio of the 17s with 285/70s, maybe it’s back to the Evo Corse.

TY.
 
Ty, and Campbellton (cattle and deer) and George West (exotics and deer) specifically. 45min ranch to ranch, but terrain changes quite a bit. Campbellton is in that coal seam land. Lots of water rentention and gross-can-never-get-out-clay-mud. George West starts to transition more towards the sandy soil and mesquite landscape of true S Texas.

how about y’all?

I know the areas, we go through GW on our way to Freer, that's one. The others are outside of Port Lavaca and just north of Shiner.
 
Check my build thread in signature for some detail pictures of 34” tires on Methods with 0 offset. From my experience and with similar suspension upgrades as you have planned (meaning there is more adjustability of the wheel/tire) you should be just fine. I have no major issues whatsoever and have fully articulated the truck on the trails. Just the slightest rub in three quarters locked going in reverse. That being said I think optimum is +20 to +25, you wouldn’t get as dirty in the mud as sidewalls would be perfectly flush with the fenders. I can only speak to the set up in my build, so other combinations my have problems but I don’t.

Good luck with the build!
 

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