How To: Repair Sagging Seat Back Pocket on LC (1 Viewer)

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Great write up!

My elastic was shot, and it has been bugging me! I finally replaced the elastic, but in retrospect, I wish I had just left it with the cord locks as posted by koich and jahawk!

Before replacing the elastic cord, I found some black cord locks on amazon (the tan ones did not match):
Amazon.com : FMS Ellipse Cord Lock - Heavy Duty Plastic Clamp Toggle Stop Slider for Paracord, Bungee Cord, Accessory Cordage, Drawstrings and More (Black)(6 Pack) : Sports & Outdoors

I put the cord lock in the center of the pocket, pulling the worn out elastic cord through the lock, and cinched it up. It looked much better than I expected (black cord lock in center of pocket; looked like it was meant to be that way), and worked very well.

However, I couldn't leave it alone, and went through the process of replacing the elastic as described above. It wasn't too difficult, and it looks good now, but if I had it to do over again, I would simply put the black cord locks in the center of the stretched cord and be done!

I think jahawk is right, the cord lock is a better fix (in addition to being easier and quicker)!

Lee
2000 LC
2004 LX
 
Thanks for the initial post. I tackled this issue this weekend and only have a couple of suggestions. I attempted to remoe the metal gromet without damage but mine also broke. :frown:

Once broke the top pillar moved enought to move out of the way of the hole to pull the cord through the hole entirely (after cutting the end off) and tie a knot (knot may not be necessary). Push the remaining gromet back through the hole to pinch the elastic cord to hold it taut. See below pics.

upload_2017-9-2_17-57-22.jpeg



upload_2017-9-2_17-57-45.jpeg
 
badlander said:
O.K., I did it. I got the panel off without breaking it. But...... I can't for the life of me figure out how the clips did NOT break. After seeing how they are designed I DID figure out how to unhook them very easily.


A few pointers for those who have not done theirs yet, the first picture shows where the clips are located on the panel.

View attachment 1063875
Now, here's the trick to unlatching the hooks....
Stick you fingers in from the top right over where the clips are.
It is very tight and will hurt your fingers a little but poke them down in there until you feel the top of the clip.
Now....with your index finger push down very hard on the top of the clip and at the same time push the panel back IN.

View attachment 1063882
You will feel the clip pop off of the retaining rod and it's free!
Do one side at a time.
Looking at the clip you can see by the shape how it will unhook as you push the panel in and at the same time push down on the top of the clip.

This picture shows where the clip attaches....on the upper horizontal section of the rod.

View attachment 1063885
Click to expand...
This was super helpful when I was repairing the lumber support motor.
 
OK, I just fixed mine and have a few other tips that I didnt read in these posts. (See pics below) The 2 plastic clips on the top of the seat slide in place, so to remove the seat back I pulled outward on the top of the seat and pushed it outward (towards doors) so that the clip would slide out of the holder on the seat back. First one side than the other. Worked like a charm! I ordered shock cord from paracord planet (PAR-18SC-GOLD-10) which pretty much matched the net color for an ivory interior. I also got some black cord as well just in case I wanted to have a contrasting color. My plastic net holder was attached with 8 small screws and washers. This is a possible fix that was done when I got the seats reuphosltered a few years back. So the net was easy to get off. The original end of the shock cord has a small black square plastic piece that fits in a groove, but simply tying a knot and cramming it in the groove works well also. I washed my nets in a tray with hot solution of "simple green" and scrub brushed them clean. Let soak for 10min, scrub, & rinse clean!
The last tip is that my seat clips wouldn't catch and I couldn't get the seats back on, so I flipped the clips around and they snapped in place perfectly. So I don'''t know if the other pics in this thread have the clips in the correct orentiation, but I would assume so? Anyway if it dont fit just flip them around! Hope this helps. I will be posting another thread on my numerous upgrades and fixes to my cruiser soon, so if you want to clean yours up and get a factory fresh interior (sans dirt and grime) and face lift stay tuned! Best...
IMG_0894.jpg
Finished product with old shock cord.
IMG_0901.jpg

IMG_0900.jpg

clip flipped upside down, worked well for mine. Clips attach in a groove and can slide out easily (towards middle of seat)
 
TheForger said:
I'm sure there are multiple threads on here about this topic but I would like to share how I did it without having to purchase any additional parts or tools. First off I have a 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser that is in excellent condition and has been dealership maintained her whole life. But my OCD immediately drew to the sagging map pockets on the back of the driver and passenger seats. Every time I would use them the items would fall out and roll everywhere in my back floorboard. So first you must remove the seat back which is attached only by 2 clips in both upper corners.

View attachment 923044

Once removed, flip it over and you will notice 8 or 9 little posts with a metal retainer ring around them that hold the net trim to the seat back. I pried and pried at them but those little metal rings are NOT easy to get off! I found out if you break just the upper post on one side of each back you can do this mod. Believe me, I HATE breaking things especially when it comes to my baby but once you put it back together you will realize it doesn't affect it at all and you may even think of another way of reattaching it.

View attachment 923045

Anyway, after breaking the post flip it back over and pry up the corner of the trim on the side that the post is broken and remove the top elastic string with the plastic fitting over the end.

View attachment 923047

Stretch the string until you are satisfied with the taughtness of the netting and cut it. I stretched it until where I wanted it to be and then backed off an inch or two (remember, you can always cut more but never put it back!).

View attachment 923050

View attachment 923042
Click to expand...
Thank you for the info, however, I broke both clips that hold the back on while trying to remove. Having a devil of a time finding the correct part number for replacements. Anyone out there might know the part number?
 
Simple quick fix- $5 & 5 minutes.

F2CC32D6-D7FE-4E66-9473-A639E2911269.jpeg
 
Cord locks to the rescue! That is definitely a much easier solution. Mine are already starting to sag again so the adjustability would be nice
 
TheForger said:
Cord locks to the rescue! That is definitely a much easier solution. Mine are already starting to sag again so the adjustability would be nice
Click to expand...
Reused the little cubes at the ends of the original shock cord. Getting the lock push washers was a bear so I cut them off. Used razor blade to protect the plastic from the cutting wheel. Great results. Oh...I drilled out the cord from the original chord. They with a box cutter cut down one side of the cube...opened with finger nails...pust the cord while stretched into the crack and cut the cord with a hot knife. Looks like new!

IMG_1291.jpg


IMG_1295.jpg


IMG_1297.jpg


IMG_1299.jpg


IMG_1300.jpg
 
Find my thread. Complete new "pockets' from Toyota for $12 each. Too easy to re-engineer.
 
forum.ih8mud.com

Front Seat Rear Pockets

OK the bungy cord gets all stretched out....we all know that. Digging through the parts catalog I see this part number, and it's only $12. Is this really a quick and reasonably priced solution? 71780-60020-B2 Seen here: Catalog link to part
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

Link
 
LEX said:
If anyone happens to break a clip like I did :rolleyes: ...the part number is 71769-60020
Click to expand...


Reviving an old thread because Toyota wanted $13 for a single seat back clip so I 3D printed my own. I figure if it lasts, I'll never think of it again. If not, oh well Ill cave and pay Toyota. In the mean time my homemade clip snapped in place nicely with a satisfying click and the back panel seems to be very secure. Incase anyone wants to save the money here is the STL file for a LH clip. The OEM one is symmetric but I added a rib to mine for some added stability so youll need to mirror it if you need a RH part. See pics below.

CAD file for printable 71769-60020 (LH)

clamps.PNG

CAD

20210824_002024935_iOS.jpg

Printed vs OE



20210824_002532574_iOS.jpg


fit and finish
 
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