How does it get this bad? (1 Viewer)

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Photos from my low res bore scope... not the best quality, but better than nothing... I'm leaning towards calling it good, putting her back together, and finally getting to drive it. Thoughts???

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Hi, Good job, nice welds. Your going to have more crud breaking loose as you drive. Put a Gano filter on there and check it OFTEN ! Mike
 
Wow, that’s a lot of set up - very impressive! I’d be tempted to run something a ltitle stronger through the block while your all set up and torn apart
 
Wow, that’s a lot of set up - very impressive! I’d be tempted to run something a ltitle stronger through the block while your all set up and torn apart
Yeah, kind of thinking that too... Been reading about Evaporust and thinking about running that through the system... seems to be much less controversy than muriatic acid...
 
Nice job! I used evaporust, it worked pretty well but even with that mine looks rougher than yours so I have a gano filter in-line. Didn‘t see if you opened and cleaned the block drain, recommended if not.
 
I wonder if ‘heat cycling’ would bust some of that loose. Run it for a short period, then pump cold water through it....

Or take the water pump off and get it there with a pressure washer? Maybe even pull the head and get to the passages from the top?
 
Completely flushed both the block and heater core again today and then added the Evaporust. I figured I would let it marinate in the block and heater core all week and perform (hopefully) a final flush next weekend.

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Nice job! I used evaporust, it worked pretty well but even with that mine looks rougher than yours so I have a gano filter in-line. Didn‘t see if you opened and cleaned the block drain, recommended if not.
Can you post a photo of your Gano filter and where you installed it?
 
If you let the evapo rust soak for long periods of time it will bring carbon to the surface of the iron. It being cast iron and having a high carbon content, I wouldn't soak more than 24 hours.

I think you might be overdoing it beyond that. Throw some quality coolant in it and drive it.
 
If you let the evaporation rust soak for long periods of time it will bring carbon to the surface of the iron. It being cast iron and having a high carbon content, I wouldn't soak more than 24 hours.

I think you might be overdoing it beyond that. Throw some quality coolant in it and drive it.
Sounds good. Thanks for the input!
 
@BigDogg here is a pic of the Gano filter installed.

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The upper radiator hose that I cut to install the Gano filter in is NOT the OEM hose. I went to the local NAPA and sorted through their hoses until I found something suitable. I believe it was from a 90's Ford Ranger, but don't bet the farm on that.
 
My Gano filter install is similar to @rkymtnflyfisher but on a 1F. I too used an aftermarket hose, when I’m done with the filter I’ll go to an original hose (I think I have one 😆) without the filter.
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Nice job! I used evaporust, it worked pretty well but even with that mine looks rougher than yours so I have a gano filter in-line. Didn‘t see if you opened and cleaned the block drain, recommended if not.
Have not tried to remove block drain yet. Looked at it this morning before work... looks like it is going to be challenging to get at it with the engine in the vehicle between the exhaust manifold and everything else that's in the way. Might try to attack it this evening. Any tricks to getting at it to make life easier?
 
Medium Gano filter.

My trick was to remove the block plug with the engine out and on a stand 😆.
 
Remember it’s a DOUBLE plug....the inner is brass and the outer is steel. It’s easy to spin the hex off of the brass plug...use a six sided socket on the inner with a box on the outer and squeeze the wrenches together (counter torque)....if it feels like it’s slipping around the brass hex....a little heat....or then attempt the outer plug.

Another suggestion....do not attempt to remove the outer plug without the inner at least snugged up.....I have bent the heater hose fitting on the head fussing with it and an 18” crescent before....

I would use a deep well 1/2 drive socket on the outer plug with extension from under the rig....remove the exhaust pipe if necessary... the exhaust gasket is a hell of lot cheaper than the pain in the butt trying the remove a broken plug.
 
Remember it’s a DOUBLE plug....the inner is brass and the outer is steel. It’s easy to spin the hex off of the brass plug...use a six sided socket on the inner with a box on the outer and squeeze the wrenches together (counter torque)....if it feels like it’s slipping around the brass hex....a little heat....or then attempt the outer plug.

Another suggestion....do not attempt to remove the outer plug without the inner at least snugged up.....I have bent the heater hose fitting on the head fussing with it and an 18” crescent before....

I would use a deep well 1/2 drive socket on the outer plug with extension from under the rig....remove the exhaust pipe if necessary... the exhaust gasket is a hell of lot cheaper than the pain in the butt trying the remove a broken plug.
Thanks for the info. and pointers!
 

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