injector service and "while you in there jobs"? (1 Viewer)

[timchen]

Just got a P0304 this afternoon.
Good wires and plugs, new cap and rotor.
Pretty sure I have a injector problem on #4.

I have already removed the upper intake and ill remove the rails and injectors tomorrow, pretty straight forward once having the in take removed.

Now the question comes. What should I do while I am in here?
The PHH is by passed already, fuel filter was replaced about 13k miles ago.
The #1 and #2 coolant hoses for the throttle body has been replaced with silicon hose with hose clamps.

Now for the vacuum lines. I had the P0401 code for the EGR not efficient about a year ago so I fixed it with the EGR delete kit from HUDDEXPO, here is the link 1995-1997 FZJ80 EGR Temp Sensor Test Plug Kit - https://huddexpo.com/1995-1997-fzj80-egr-temp-sensor-test-plug-kit/

Since I have the EGR vacuums blocked and deleted, what vacuum lines that hides under the intake are still functioning? Can I delete them?
What else to add?

Thanks, Tim

 

[slow95z]

go ahead and buy new injector harness clips, 100% chance that at least 1 will break.

 

[flintknapper]

go ahead and buy new injector harness clips, 100% chance that at least 1 will break.

^^^^^

Absolutely this.

 

[SmokingRocks]

go ahead and buy new injector harness clips, 100% chance that at least 1 will break.

I'd go one further and suggest just replacing all 6. Years of heat soak and cycles makes them incredibly brittle, they just need to be replaced when you service the injectors.

 

[Rwhat]

Replace all vacuum lines and evap hoses under the manifold. Buy a longer piece of small coolant hose for the throttle body also. Makes it easier to remove in the future.

 

[timchen]

go ahead and buy new injector harness clips, 100% chance that at least 1 will break.

Where can I buy them

 

[flintknapper]

I'd go one further and suggest just replacing all 6. Years of heat soak and cycles makes them incredibly brittle, they just need to be replaced when you service the injectors.

I think that is already what @slow95z meant (replace them all). And yes they become VERY brittle over time. While they might not 'crumble' many folks will have the locking clip break on them. Best to replace ALL as you say.

 

[timchen]

Might as well delete the Egr itself too. You’ll need a model 1 and 2.

Wits' End

Wits' End, Land Cruiser, 80 Series, LX450, 100 Series, Fire Extinguisher Mount

absolute-wits-end.com

As for the vacuum lines, the only one I kept under the intake was the fuel regulator.

Also x2 on what slow said. My old ones were so brittle I put some pressure on them with a pair of pliers and they busted like glass. Just be sure to have paper towels in your intake so you don’t get any plastic shards in them if you do this.

I know it’s for a peace of mind but is it necessary to delete the egr assembly since it stays close all the time now.

 

[slow95z]

Wits end also has the clips for the injectors. Go ahead and get everything from one place (joey) so shipping doesn't burn you up.

Might as well do valve cover and dizzy oring, why not do pcv and stuff while there, I mean spark plugs are easy to change now lol.

Next thing you know the rear axle is apart haha. It's a rabbit hole for sure.

 

[timchen]

Wits end also has the clips for the injectors. Go ahead and get everything from one place (joey) so shipping doesn't burn you up.

Might as well do valve cover and dizzy oring, why not do pcv and stuff while there, I mean spark plugs are easy to change now lol.

Next thing you know the rear axle is apart haha. It's a rabbit hole for sure.

My valve cover is surprisingly dry all around lol yeah I’ll change out everything while I’m in there, how hard is it to pop the wires out from the injector clip on the harness?

 

[slow95z]

i mean i am a complete idiot so i did it the idiot way as i do all connectors i am changing. i take a picture or 7 so i have the color codes and then beat them with a hammer until they fall apart and then slide the pins into the new clip. yes i am stupid, no i dont need you to tell me.

 

[timchen]

Not necessary, but it declutters the engine, and gives you a little more wiggle room next time you do the PHH. My thought was since you’re removing most of the EGR components, might as well remove it as well.

Understood, thanks for the advice lol

 

[timchen]

i mean i am a complete idiot so i did it the idiot way as i do all connectors i am changing. i take a picture or 7 so i have the color codes and then beat them with a hammer until they fall apart and then slide the pins into the new clip. yes i am stupid, no i dont need you to tell me.

Well that’s one way to do it lmao

 

[Jefe23]

Just got a P0304 this afternoon.
Good wires and plugs, new cap and rotor.
Pretty sure I have a injector problem on #4.
View attachment 2537981
I have already removed the upper intake and ill remove the rails and injectors tomorrow, pretty straight forward once having the in take removed.

Now the question comes. What should I do while I am in here?
The PHH is by passed already, fuel filter was replaced about 13k miles ago.
The #1 and #2 coolant hoses for the throttle body has been replaced with silicon hose with hose clamps.

Now for the vacuum lines. I had the P0401 code for the EGR not efficient about a year ago so I fixed it with the EGR delete kit from HUDDEXPO, here is the link 1995-1997 FZJ80 EGR Temp Sensor Test Plug Kit - https://huddexpo.com/1995-1997-fzj80-egr-temp-sensor-test-plug-kit/
View attachment 2537982
Since I have the EGR vacuums blocked and deleted, what vacuum lines that hides under the intake are still functioning? Can I delete them?
What else to add?

Thanks, Tim

Hey @timchen,

Did you ever get to the bottom of your #4 misfire issue? I'm working through some random misfires after doing valve cover gasket/spark plug seals/injector service.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[Bigjayva]

Having the same issue. New oem wires, distributor cap, plugs, battery and still getting cyl #4 misfire code. #4 seems to be a common code. I read another post that the solution was a new ECU. Idles in park smoothly, but under load it shakes violently but stops when you let off the throttle.