Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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So a few things I'm unsure of...

The RF1A case has a bearing on both sides of the gear set, and the output shaft of the 4500 does not require a support so I don't think you will be needing that bearing in the adapter between the two.

However there will need to be a seal between the two boxes.

I'm assuming your plan is to cut that 4500 to land cruiser adapter output shaft down and using it for a spud shaft?

Is that shaft 10 spline?

I'm not sure if the shaft is hardened enough on at the base of the splines, or is it will run concentric enough for a seal, but that's probably where it's got to be.

Something to think about

Mike
 
Right here at the base of the splines.

Screenshot_20201219-104919.png
 
I was actually planning on h
Right here at the base of the splines.

View attachment 2528954

I was actually planning on trying to get the two cases to share oil. That toybox seems to have such a small volume that I think it would be good to do. What do you think? If not I still think I am going to keep that bearing, I dont see why it wouldn't act as a seal being that high up.

I do plan on just cutting down that shaft to mate it into a spud shaft.
 
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I was actually planning on h


I was actually planning on trying to get the two cases to share oil. That toybox seems to have such a small volume that I think it would be good to do. What do you think? If not I still think I am going to keep that bearing, I dont see why it wouldn't act as a seal being that hifmgh up.

I do plan on juat cutting down that shaft to mae it into a spud shaft.
Yea I'm not sure about mixing the two. I know that my toy box likes a hair under one qt of fluid before it starts to weep out of the shifter. I have more case volume than a typical ToyBox because of the tail housing it mates to.

There are a bunch of potential issues with this. The level might not end up being where it needs to. Especially since the only opening between the two is at the top where the shaft passes through.

I fixed one oiling issue with the lower cages roller bearing on mine already.

You can try it!

Mike
 
Yea I'm not sure about mixing the two. I know that my toy box likes a hair under one qt of fluid before it starts to weep out of the shifter. I have more case volume than a typical ToyBox because of the tail housing it mates to.

There are a bunch of potential issues with this. The level might not end up being where it needs to. Especially since the only opening between the two is at the top where the shaft passes through.

I fixed one oiling issue with the lower cages roller bearing on mine already.

You can try it!

Mike

I am worried about the level, but I'll look at the plug heights and see if they would work. I am just afraid that with such little oil I will need a cooler or something to keep it cool and not break it down.
 
I am worried about the level, but I'll look at the plug heights and see if they would work. I am just afraid that with such little oil I will need a cooler or something to keep it cool and not break it down.
The RF1a doesn't generate much heat in high range. I would worry too much.
 
The RF1a doesn't generate much heat in high range. I would worry too much.

I always forget that they are pretty much a straight through drive. Do you know how long your overall trans, toybox, orion length is? I'm trying to figure out if I need to scoot my axle back any more.
 
I always forget that they are pretty much a straight through drive. Do you know how long your overall trans, toybox, orion length is? I'm trying to figure out if I need to scoot my axle back any more.
I won't be at the truck for a few weeks. Its pretty long though. Wouldn't be surprised if it's longer than yours.


Mike
 
I won't be at the truck for a few weeks. Its pretty long though. Wouldn't be surprised if it's longer than yours.


Mike

I think they are going to be really close in length. What trans do you have? Do you know about how long your rear driveshaft is?
 
I think they are going to be really close in length. What trans do you have? Do you know about how long your rear driveshaft is?
I don't remember any dimensions off hand. I have had no issues with the length of what I have at all. No vibrations or binding or whatever.

It's an R151f/ax15 hybrid kinda deal

Mike
 
I don't remember any dimensions off hand. I have had no issues with the length of what I have at all. No vibrations or binding or whatever.

It's an R151f/ax15 hybrid kinda deal

Mike

Thats really good to know. I'm pretty worried about not having enough driveshaft.
 
I started reassembly this weekend.

I started with the front cage mounts.

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I worked on smoothing out this paint run from when forgot I had some reducer in the gun and shot some on the paint. Big doh moment for me.

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I then polished up the dash with some 3M Perfect-it. The stuff works wonders with a 3000 grit sand.

Sanded

20201220_122829.jpg


Buffed.

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Cage Install
20201220_153923.jpg


Cage in, with a special appearance from my dad. We didn't scratch the paint, which is a miracle.

Seats in

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I got the harnesses in as well.

20201220_165941.jpg


I gotta start on wiring now, which is going to suck.
 
Nice work, wiring isn't bad. Just take your time and make good notes. Makes repairs and trouble shooting a lot easier down the road

I'm a complete ape with electricity, so we will see. I'm hoping to keep good notes so I can fix all the dumb stuff I end up doing.
 
The 383 got dynoed today, with some great results. It was pretty fun to watch:

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The first pull was great, making over 440 FTLBS and over 390 HP.

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Second pull did a bit better, with the sniper still learning.

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@Godfather90 , here is the new output shaft.

20201220_185257.jpg


I've been talking with my machinist, and I dropped off the plate and tailhousing to get drilled and tapped today. I had him measure the tailhousing so he could trim the shaft to the 2 5/8" required.

I think this should all work out.
 
@Godfather90 , here is the new output shaft.

View attachment 2531248

I've been talking with my machinist, and I dropped off the plate and tailhousing to get drilled and tapped today. I had him measure the tailhousing so he could trim the shaft to the 2 5/8" required.

I think this should all work out.
Maybe you should trim that shaft yourself?

Just use an angle grinder... You can use clay to make sure you get it nice and tight.

Have you looked for a seal that will fit where that bearing rode? Or are you really going to try to run that bearing in there?

Engine sounds good!

Awesome progress.

Now is also your opportunity to clock the transfer case. Via the adapter. Is there a specific location you have to run it die to fastener locations?

Mike
 
Maybe you should trim that shaft yourself?

Just use an angle grinder... You can use clay to make sure you get it nice and tight.

Have you looked for a seal that will fit where that bearing rode? Or are you really going to try to run that bearing in there?

Engine sounds good!

Awesome progress.

Now is also your opportunity to clock the transfer case. Via the adapter. Is there a specific location you have to run it die to fastener locations?

Mike

I don't know if I really want to heat that shaft that much. The guy said he would lob it off with his cutoff saw and then touch it up on a lathe.

I can't really clock the case, so I can keep most of the bolt holes on the plate. I don't really think I need to though. I may be able to find a seal, but I think that a bearing would be better, as the shaft is unsupported otherwise. What do you think? I can always find a seal to fit, but there really isn't much surface on the shaft that a seal could run on.
 
I don't know if I really want to heat that shaft that much. The guy said he would lob it off with his cutoff saw and then touch it up on a lathe.

I can't really clock the case, so I can keep most of the bolt holes on the plate. I don't really think I need to though. I may be able to find a seal, but I think that a bearing would be better, as the shaft is unsupported otherwise. What do you think? I can always find a seal to fit, but there really isn't much surface on the shaft that a seal could run on.
The most important part right now is the concentricity. How is the fit on the output shaft? And the input of the ToyBox? A weep hole will help keep the spline wear down.

Mike
 

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