Door Adjustment and Access to Bolts (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 14, 2006
Threads
154
Messages
1,660
Location
MD 'Burbs of DC
I want to lift my front driver's side door to eliminate the gap at the top and tighten the fit. I can loosen all the bolts that hold the door to the body except the top two of the upper hinge. They are virtually inaccessible. Has anybody got a trick for getting to these two? Thanks.
 
I can't even see the bolts let alone touch them. I think the vehicle is built around them! I'll be watching this thread as I too would like to tweak the door a little.
 
man, I had to do this this summer to flip the hinges for some half doors I got. Anyway, on the drivers side I had to remove the fuse box, headlight switch and a after-market tach to get up in there cleanly (passenger side is unobstructed). on both sides, it took HOURS to get them off and a lot of bloody knuckle busting - seriously. I recall using a small socket wrench with a small/thin pipe handle extension on it (for leverage and length to be able to reach up there and yet have my hand more down in the foot area) and only being able to do a ratchet 1 click at a time due to space limitations. IIRC, that fuse block mount is really in the way as well - even with the fuse block removed. I had to be on my back, with a flashlight point up in there to get them off. I naturally took off the bottom 2 bolts first and then the top 2 as there are 4 total that hold that hinge plate in. I even sprayed WD40 up there ahead of time to try to loosen them up. talk about a PITA. at first, I was thinking it would not be possible. but in the end, I beat it. if you have big hands, you are screwed. I had healing cuts for weeks after that.

obviosuly, bottom hinge is easy to get to.
 
Last edited:
I understand that this reply is coming too late to help, but I just did this this past weekend and found that it was actually pretty easy to remove the instrument cluster and reach in through the hole. Prior to thinking of this I was having thoughts of giving up or cutting and rewelding the hinge to make it fit. It still wasn't easy, but like I said, it was much better.
 
I second going in thru the instrument cluster opening.

IF YOU GO THAT ROUTE.............DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU START!!!!!!


!!!!!!!


It helps to have a good assortment of tools to choose from. A box end wrench is best to start with. NO WD40 or other lubricants, because they just make the tool slip off the bolt and you've busted your knuckle before you got ANYWHERE!
The likelihood of the wrench slipping off the bolt and possibly stripping the head is highest while you're trying to get the initial turn on it, which is why you don't want to accidentally lubricate it and make it easier for the wrench to slip off.

A second box end on an 'S' wrench is helpful if you can't get a full tooth of rotation. A ratcheting box end wrench is useful once you've got a couple of turns out of the bolt. Before that, it doesn't reach in far enough to get a good 'bite'

Hth

Mark A.
 
I want to lift my front driver's side door to eliminate the gap at the top and tighten the fit. I can loosen all the bolts that hold the door to the body except the top two of the upper hinge. They are virtually inaccessible. Has anybody got a trick for getting to these two? Thanks.

I removed the instrument cluster. I then removed the light switch knob and the nut holding the switch to the dash. I pushed the light switch in to the dash cavity and was able to get to the bolts for the top hinge. I found that using a ratcheting box wrench was the easiest tool to get this done. You should pull the negative battery cable just for safety as the light switch has power all the time.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom