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Ok- I got it to start... kinda... It's sputtering and I have to keep pumping the gas pedal. When I stop it dies. But definitely not even close to an idle.
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What are your settings at on the carb? IM, (idle mix, in back closer to valve cover) and the other... haha, I can’t even recall now, the one closer to the facing right side base area. The third thats further out to the facing right is for your fast idle w/ choke pulled, should be set at about 1,800.Ok- I got it to start... kinda... It's sputtering and I have to keep pumping the gas pedal. When I stop it dies. But definitely not even close to an idle.
What are your settings at on the carb? IM, (idle mix, in back closer to valve cover) and the other... haha, I can’t even recall now, the one closer to the facing right side base area. The third thats further out to the facing right is for your fast idle w/ choke pulled, should be set at about 1,800.
ICS connected and working properly? Can you hear it clicking with key on and off?
Just checked the ICS and it is clicking when connecting the plug.
IF the ICS clicks and the engine runs with it jumpered but not with it connected, then you have a problem with the ICS circuit.
Just finished rebuilding my head, and the carb.
Forgive me, I am very novice (read dumb) when it comes to electrical work. As in, I don't know how to "create a temporary constant 12V from the battery". How do I know which wire on the ICS is power vs ground?
The ICS is clicking when I connect the plug to it. Is the idea that it could have enough power and ground through the wiring to make it click, but not function properly?
OK. It sounds like you were TDC compression when you installed the distributor. If you are not convinced that you set the valves correctly, then go back and check them again. You can use the table I linked earlier. At this point it's not so much getting the valves exactly perfect, but making sure they are open and closed when needed. When a valve is closed you should be able to fit the feeler gauge between the rocker and the valve stem. When it is open, the feeler gauge won't fit.
Have you checked your engine fuse? I had some no starts once and that’s what it was...I can't even get it to start in order to tune it.
Fuel just isn’t getting all the way to the carb? Or
Have you checked your engine fuse? I had some no starts once and that’s what it was...
ignore all that. I listened to the video. Why is the battery light fired up?
Choke is pulled?
IM is open at least 3 turns? Idle speed screw is at least turned 3-4 so it’s pressing the metal below it?
Oy. IM is on the back side closer to valve cover. Idle speed is closer to the right side tucked in at the base of the carb. The screw seats down on a metal linkage. You can see the linkage move as you tighten the screw in.I pulled the #1 spark plug out and it smelled of fuel which leads me to believe it's no longer a fuel issue?
Choke is pulled, that's the only way to make it barely sputter start. Doesn't even do that without the choke pulled.
I'm not sure about the charge light. The battery was out of the car for 8 months and I've had a tender on it charging. Figured that's what is was but tender is now green and I still have the charge light.
Please remind me which adjustment the IM is? Idle speed screw is the brass one on the valve cover side correct? What is meant by "so it's pressing on the metal below it". How can I gauge that?
Not even aware of what an engine fuse is