Icon caster correction bushing review (1 Viewer)

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South west utah
I decided to try Icons caster bushings. They claim they are a 4.6 degree bushing. This rig has a 2 inch iron man lift with old worn out Old Man Emu caster bushings. When I had it aligned I think it was sitting at 0 or 1 degree positive. After a get a new alignment I will find my old alignment paper and post both the old and new papers for all to compare.

Overall the packaging, service, delivery, and experience was very positive. The bushings came with a tool to press the old bushings out and new ones in along with a piece of pipe to set under the radius arm. The tools they sent worked great for removing and installing the bushings. Icon also included really great amazing instructions, and the pressing and reinstallation went super smoothly due to the quality instructions.

My only concern at this point is the visual inspection. The icon bushings were surprisingly light and the outside sleeve was a type of plastic rather than steel. Only time will tell, but I have a hard time believing such a light weight bushing compared to others will hold up to any kind of serious offroad use.

Anywase here are some pictures and I will try to update the thread with a before and after alignment soon.
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Icon does a good job with their instructions.
Delta as well.
So many companies have terrible instructions.
 
Icon does a good job with their instructions.
Delta as well.
So many companies have terrible instructions.

I would agree, for people like myself decent destructions make all the difference.
:smokin: :cool:

So far these bushings seem to be holding up. I have about 1,000 miles on them with probably 250 offroad, mainly fast washboard. The rig is certainly handling better.

It might be a few more weeks but I will get it over to the alignment shop and get the before and after #'s posted.
 
Well I still haven't got around to getting a new alignment. But I had my radius arms out today and I gave these bushings a close inspection. I honestly expected to find some damage because they seemed poorly built. Surprisingly they were in great shape still, no cracks or tears in the rubber at all.

That being said I have put a lot of offroad miles on these with plenty of flexy situations, but I am certainly not a hardcore rock crawler. I am still concerned that these bushings wouldn't hold up to many full days of constant flexing and crawling type use.

I will continue to update this thread. But I think those who are only using their 80's for average BLM/NFS roads and trails would be happy with these bushings.

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Well I still haven't got around to getting a new alignment. But I had my radius arms out today and I gave these bushings a close inspection. I honestly expected to find some damage because they seemed poorly built. Surprisingly they were in great shape still, no cracks or tears in the rubber at all.

That being said I have put a lot of offroad miles on these with plenty of flexy situations, but I am certainly not a hardcore rock crawler. I am still concerned that these bushings wouldn't hold up to many full days of constant flexing and crawling type use.

I will continue to update this thread. But I think those who are only using their 80's for average BLM/NFS roads and trails would be happy with these bushings.

View attachment 2577772
So how are these Icon Castor Correction bushings holding up so far?

I have a 2 inch OME lift and after the OME castor correction bushing was installed two different shops said my castor was at an abysmal -1.🤔 Steering has been noticeably more sloppy ever since with the resulting castor of -1. If this Icon bushing does as advertised with a 4.6 degree castor correction, then in theory it should put my rig back at a much improved +3.6 ish. Also, how long did it take you to install these?
 
So how are these Icon Castor Correction bushings holding up so far?

I have a 2 inch OME lift and after the OME castor correction bushing was installed two different shops said my castor was at an abysmal -1.🤔 Steering has been noticeably more sloppy ever since with the resulting castor of -1. If this Icon bushing does as advertised with a 4.6 degree castor correction, then in theory it should put my rig back at a much improved +3.6 ish. Also, how long did it take you to install these?
They didn't last a year. They are not giving my truck any additional caster because they are worn out. They are not a quality bushing.

If your set on using bushings than stick with ome.

Personally I feel like bushings are a band aid repair for caster.

I am a big believer in the ram mounts made by @eimkeith

Also offset trunnion bearings are a good method to correct caster.

Arms are too much $$$$ and caster plates seem like too much work.

Radius Arm Mounts - https://eimkeith.com/ram/
 
They didn't last a year. They are not giving my truck any additional caster because they are worn out. They are not a quality bushing.

If your set on using bushings than stick with ome.

Personally I feel like bushings are a band aid repair for caster.

I am a big believer in the ram mounts made by @eimkeith

Also offset trunnion bearings are a good method to correct caster.

Arms are too much $$$$ and caster plates seem like too much work.

Radius Arm Mounts - https://eimkeith.com/ram/
For what it's worth, I put caster plates on and it wasn't hard. If you have a welder or a buddy who can weld, you just glue them in place once they're installed. Used Landtank plates. Good results and good hardware.
 
For what it's worth, I put caster plates on and it wasn't hard. If you have a welder or a buddy who can weld, you just glue them in place once they're installed. Used Landtank plates. Good results and good hardware.
I thought you had to use a small right angle drill and drill new holes for plates.
 
I thought you had to use a small right angle drill and drill new holes for plates.
Land tank has two versions. The 2.5” caster plates do not require drilling but They do require some grinding. The 4” caster plates need the drill.
 
Good to know.

Another aspect to consider is the fact that some caster correction will create clearance issues with the steering linkage and radius arms.

I believe bushings and plates will cause this but, drop brackets, trunnion bearings, and aftermarket arms will avoid this issue.
 
+1 that these so-called caster correction bushings are a waste of time whether sold by OME, ICON or Elon Musk himself.

Go arms and call it a day. I regret cutting into my factory axles to fit the plates. It also shortened my wheelbase and gave me less caster than the Delta arms I eventually ended up with.
 
+1 that these so-called caster correction bushings are a waste of time whether sold by OME, ICON or Elon Musk himself.

Go arms and call it a day. I regret cutting into my factory axles to fit the plates. It also shortened my wheelbase and gave me less caster than the Delta arms I eventually ended up with.
This is great if you have the money for new arms. But plates work just fine if they're well thought out and they're several magnitudes cheaper.
 
This is great if you have the money for new arms. But plates work just fine if they're well thought out and they're several magnitudes cheaper.
Magnitudes? lol

I paid $1013 shipped with new OEM bushings and hardware for my Delta arms. If an 80 owner can't Santa Claus ~$500 or the equivalent of 5-6 fill ups in our thirsty beasts for better caster, retention of stock wheelbase, and no cutting into factory steel, then have a ball with the just fine plates.

Measure twice, cut once.

Happy Thanksgiving! :)
 
Magnitudes? lol

I paid $1013 shipped with new OEM bushings and hardware for my Delta arms. If an 80 owner can't Santa Claus ~$500 or the equivalent of 5-6 fill ups in our thirsty beasts for better caster, retention of stock wheelbase, and no cutting into factory steel, then have a ball with the just fine plates.

Measure twice, cut once.

Happy Thanksgiving! :)
Yeah, $1000 vs $150-200. I'm not arguing that arms are probably a better solution but $800 is a lot of coin for most people, 80 owner or not.
 
Yeah, $1000 vs $150-200. I'm not arguing that arms are probably a better solution but $800 is a lot of coin for most people, 80 owner or not.

I went from bushings to plates to arms myself and my present self would admonish by past self to do as I say here because it is the best solution. You're also forgetting the OEM bits and bobs + a more involved install putting it closer to my original numbers.

Let me also state the obvious that I'm no Dogecoin gazillionaire, but if a 100-dollhair$-per-fill-up-80-owner justifying 10-13mpg at best can't scrounge up the diff, might want to reassess your priorities.

🦃
 
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I went from bushings to plates to arms myself and my present self would admonish by past self to do as I say here because it is the best solution. You're also forgetting the OEM bits and bobs + a more involved install putting it closer to my original numbers.

Let me also state the obvious that I'm no Dogecoin gazillionaire, but if a 100-dollhair$-per-fill-up-80-owner justifying 10-13mpg at best can't scrounge up the diff, might want to reassess your priorities.

🦃
Fair point. All I know is when I put plates on, I couldn't afford new arms because I was also rebuilding my brakes and my axles plus some miscellaneous engine refresh items. And the plates improved handling in a dramatic way - which was a big deal to me since my family rides in the 80 on a regular basis. So, yes, arms are the A+ proper solution but if all you can swing is plates and you're trying to be a little safer at speed, I say go for it.
 
Good to know.

Another aspect to consider is the fact that some caster correction will create clearance issues with the steering linkage and radius arms.

I believe bushings and plates will cause this but, drop brackets, trunnion bearings, and aftermarket arms will avoid this issue.
My plates don’t have clearance issues nor do they shorten the wheel base.
 
My plates don’t have clearance issues nor do they shorten the wheel base.
Your caster plates don't cause the steering linkage to move closer to the radius arms?

I am going to need more caster correction one day. I am still trying to decide between plates and trunnion bearings for future caster correction.
 
I went from bushings to plates to arms myself and my present self would admonish by past self to do as I say here because it is the best solution. You're also forgetting the OEM bits and bobs + a more involved install putting it closer to my original numbers.

Let me also state the obvious that I'm no Dogecoin gazillionaire, but if a 100-dollhair$-per-fill-up-80-owner justifying 10-13mpg at best can't scrounge up the diff, might want to reassess your priorities.

🦃
Sure, and why get a mild steel exhaust when you can go full stainless. Why just do a head gasket when you can do a full rebuild. Why blend paint when you can do a full respray... My priority is to enjoy my truck safely without spending another $5000 on it over the next year.

I used the rubber TJM caster bushings and they have been great for the past 4 years.
 
Your caster plates don't cause the steering linkage to move closer to the radius arms?

I am going to need more caster correction one day. I am still trying to decide between plates and trunnion bearings for future caster correction.
the 2.5" plates do but ever so slightly and hasn't been a problem for anyone. On the 4" plates I incorporate an arm drop along with the rotation for caster correction to maximize the gap between the tie rod and arms and even with over sized tie rods there is no contact issue.
 

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