Dobinsons 3.5" Tapered Lift... or? (1 Viewer)

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I had to call and request this kit. I talked to Leo and he knew exactly what I was wanting. I got the impression that he’d had this request before. Basically it’s the basic 2.5” IMS lift kit with the tapered long travel coils and 4” IMS shocks. If you select the basic 2.5” IMS kit online, the tapered coils aren’t an option with the basic kit, and I’m not sure what length shock come with the basic kit. It’s 15% off until the end of November.

I do think they offer it as a complete kit under the 2.5 tapered long travel option. You can select that kit and upgrade to the IMS shocks.
 
Castor bushing are the absolute last choice for castor correction. Considering your choice of springs and shocks, I assume you plan to do some wheeling. Why not do it right and buy new radius arms or at least use castor correction plates. If you flex the suspension hard those correction bushings won’t last even if they are “rubber”.

I can go through oem bushings every couple years and they have the bolt hole centered in the rubber bushing mass.

Based on the height I am seeing from the 2.5 coils up front I also doubt the bushings provide anywhere near enough correction.
 
Based on the height I am seeing from the 2.5 coils up front I also doubt the bushings provide anywhere near enough correction.
I don’t know how anyone could get 4” lift from the 2.5” coils. I have 3.5” front tapered coils and they give me 4” lift with a tube bumper and Warn 9500. The comparison can not be made against the old stock springs.

I wouldn’t use castor bushings even if they did provide enough correction. Think about it, swapping out bushings is much more difficult and expensive to do if you need to pay a shop to press old out and new in only to do it again someday, sooner than later, when you realize you made a mistake or come to a final decision on a permanent solution.

All this stuff has been beaten to death in previous threads. No guess work is necessary.
 
I don’t know how anyone could get 4” lift from the 2.5” coils. I have 3.5” front tapered coils and they give me 4” lift with a tube bumper and Warn 9500. The comparison can not be made against the old stock springs.

I wouldn’t use castor bushings even if they did provide enough correction. Think about it, swapping out bushings is much more difficult and expensive to do if you need to pay a shop to press old out and new in only to do it again someday, sooner than later, when you realize you made a mistake or come to a final decision on a permanent solution.

All this stuff has been beaten to death in previous threads. No guess work is necessary.

I am seeing a hub to flare measurement of 23 1/4" with a smittubuilt 10k winch and tube bumper up front. We will see if the 4" delta arms provide too much correction. Hopefully not, but I was concerned the 2.5" would not provide enough. I also wanted to go with an option that allowed for me to retain the OEM bushings. Previously I was seeing 21" up front with OME springs. I believe the 851.
 
I am seeing a hub to flare measurement of 23 1/4" with a smittubuilt 10k winch and tube bumper up front. We will see if the 4" delta arms provide too much correction. Hopefully not, but I was concerned the 2.5" would not provide enough. I also wanted to go with an option that allowed for me to retain the OEM bushings. Previously I was seeing 21" up front with OME springs. I believe the 851.
I’m a tad over 25” hub to fender with 3.5” and a 1” spacer running delta 6” arms. Definitely go for the 4” arms as a little extra castor is better than low in the factory spec range.
 
I’m a tad over 25” hub to fender with 3.5” and a 1” spacer running delta 6” arms. Definitely go for the 4” arms as a little extra castor is better than low in the factory spec range.

Thanks for the tip. And yes this has been beaten to death in a few other threads. I went with the tapered coils primarily due to your feedback on their performance.
 
Thanks for the tip. And yes this has been beaten to death in a few other threads. I went with the tapered coils primarily due to your feedback on their performance.
Opinions are cheap and plenty here on Mud. Any modification that aides off road performance is usually a detriment to pavement performance in my experience. The tapered design brings flex and comfort at the expense of handling. Some Slinky guys will try to tell you other wise but I’ve driven a slinky equipped 80 and it swayed worse than when I used to run single rate springs. The best of both worlds is an illusion but the springs you chose are certainly a doable compromise.
 
I have about 50 miles on my tapered 2.5” springs with sliders, arb, and a winch. Has anybody experienced a pretty drastic lean on the drivers side? I’m at about 3 1/4” lift on the drivers side and 4 3/4 lift on the passenger, and I’m pretty sure I put the springs in the right place, “right” spring on the passenger and the “left” spring on the drivers.
 
I have about 50 miles on my tapered 2.5” springs with sliders, arb, and a winch. Has anybody experienced a pretty drastic lean on the drivers side? I’m at about 3 1/4” lift on the drivers side and 4 3/4 lift on the passenger, and I’m pretty sure I put the springs in the right place, “right” spring on the passenger and the “left” spring on the drivers.

I will check mine out and report back. I probably have around 100 miles on mine tops. Thats definitely some pretty drastic lean!

I know this is like asking "is it plugged in" but is the bottom of your passenger coil properly seated on the mount?
 
I will check mine out and report back. I probably have around 100 miles on mine tops. Thats definitely some pretty drastic lean!

I know this is like asking "is it plugged in" but is the bottom of your passenger coil properly seated on the mount?


I was pretty careful to line up the spring in the coil bucket but it’s definitely something good to double check in the morning. I’ve put on 2 lifts this week🤦🏾‍♂️ And I wouldn’t be supprised if something dumb like that is my issue
 
I was pretty careful to line up the spring in the coil bucket but it’s definitely something good to double check in the morning. I’ve put on 2 lifts this week🤦🏾‍♂️ And I wouldn’t be supprised if something dumb like that is my issue

I just checked mine again and my driveway is not level but I am within 1/4" on both sides.

I've done some pretty dumb stuff in my time on this world as well.
 
I have about 50 miles on my tapered 2.5” springs with sliders, arb, and a winch. Has anybody experienced a pretty drastic lean on the drivers side? I’m at about 3 1/4” lift on the drivers side and 4 3/4 lift on the passenger, and I’m pretty sure I put the springs in the right place, “right” spring on the passenger and the “left” spring on the drivers.
Dobinson springs were labeled for AU spec cruisers. Your springs need to be installed opposite of labeling plus a 10mm packer on top of the left rear coil. This is how I run mine. Actually, if you are super anal, you could run a packer atop the left front coil too. This is once the springs have been installed correctly of course. 😂
 
Dobinson springs were labeled for AU spec cruisers. Your springs need to be installed opposite of labeling plus a 10mm packer on top of the left rear coil. This is how I run mine. Actually, if you are super anal, you could run a packer atop the left front coil too. This is once the springs have been installed correctly of course. 😂

I thought I put the taller spring on the drivers side and I even looked up which side goes where and It seems like I still messed it up🤦🏾‍♂️
 
I thought I put the taller spring on the drivers side and I even looked up which side goes where and It seems like I still messed it up🤦🏾‍♂️
Read the labels and go opposite. Installed properly, you will still need that trim packer. The left side of Landcruiser’s is heavier. The power train is mounted slightly left to accommodate the off center differentials. This has been true since the first Landcruiser.
 
Read the labels and go opposite. Installed properly, you will still need that trim packer. The left side of Landcruiser’s is heavier. The power train is mounted slightly left to accommodate the off center differentials. This has been true since the first Landcruiser.

I have to ask, is it left when you’re looking at the car from the outside or the left from inside the car😂 I put flexis on my girlfriends 80 today and I put the taller springs on the drivers side and it sits level. I think I just was dumb and flip flopped the coils in the front on mine
 
I have to ask, is it left when you’re looking at the car from the outside or the left from inside the car😂 I put flexis on my girlfriends 80 today and I put the taller springs on the drivers side and it sits level. I think I just was dumb and flip flopped the coils in the front on mine
We always judge from the rear. Doesn’t matter if it’s cars, planes or chicks we call it from the rear.
 

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