1976 FJ40 No start (Long Story) (1 Viewer)

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Mar 8, 2020
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Location
Allentown Pa
First I would like to wish everyone and their family a Happy Thanksgiving!! I am writing this question on Thanksgiving not because I am looking for an answer on Thanksgiving, its just because I have the time.

Ok, here goes:

My, in very very rough shape 1976 FJ40 2F got stolen in 2017 and was recovered 2 years later.

I can't get it to start.

Here's what I have done so far, in order:
1. Replaced fuel filter
2. Replaced Fuel pump
3. Rebuilt Carbeurator per PinHead Youtube videos.
4. Replaced Starter (weak turnover with full charge)
5. New Spark plugs
6. New Spark Plug wires and Battery
7. New Rotor and Cap
8. New points
9. Checked old vacuum lines, all couldnt hold vacuum. Replaced with gaudy blue.
10. Replaced Carb with poor quality internet one. (more for part spare than intended daily use)

Still no start. Checked fuel line supply and vapor return line. When inspecting, i bumped the fuel line and it disintegrated from rust.
11. Replaced fuel lines, both supply and vapor return. Poor quality internet carb loaded with rust, debris in sight glass.

11. Removed and replaced with original Aisin Carb. More of the same debris in bowl.

Popped top cover with both carbs and cleaned them out.

Cleaned out all the lines, head to to toe and discovered fuel supply line and vapor return line were switched at the fuel tank which would explain why no fuel pickup when tank is only 1/8 filled.


I now get fuel to carb. Isolated ignitor from ignition and am running straight from coil to get it started. Spark is there. (I cannot discern whether it is a strong or weak spark. Im not that versed)

So i get fuel, and spark. Still no start. Wants to kickover on start turn but wont.

Right now, I just cant see fuel being drawn in when pumping accelerator. Moreover I just cant tell that when fuel is poured into throttle body, that it is being drawn in through intake manifold.

In other words, is there a way to test carb for fuel draw by cap all vacuum ports? How can I test intake manifold for vacuum? A regular compression test?

Any ideas on what to do next. I have a 78 USA non calif carb that I know is working, but I am not knowledgeable on how to convert.

P.S. The whole reason I am looking to get this started is that once is starts, it is going to get a whole lot of tender loving care to bring it back. The metal work is going to be performed by the individual who found my 40! As a reward for finding it, my brother and I sold him our "parts 40" for a discounted price to which he is just about completing a restore.

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" Wants to kickover on start turn but wont. "

Does this mean that it is firing while cranking? Have you adjusted the points to FSM settings and are they in good condition? Also set the timing to FSM settings for initial timing, you will adjust it once the engine is running. What are the condition of the distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs?
 
" Wants to kickover on start turn but wont. "

Does this mean that it is firing while cranking? Have you adjusted the points to FSM settings and are they in good condition? Also set the timing to FSM settings for initial timing, you will adjust it once the engine is running. What are the condition of the distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs?

I have spark. As the engine turns, it seems to be definitely firing, ALMOST to the point in runs on its own. If that makes sense. Also, should have said fuses were changed. Points are new. Interestingly, when I left ignition on over ten minutes, I replaced points and lost spark. Put other points back in, and got spark back.

I have adjusted to FSM settings. 18 thousands or .451 metric equivalent. Cap rotor and plugs all new. Made sure not "shorter" plugs as I have seen somewhere in a search.
 
Have you removed the fuel feed line at the carb, place a cup under the line and crank the motor over? Try cranking for several seconds, maybe longer, and look at the snout of fuel being pumped to the carb.
 
I agree with @brian , check the timing next.
 
If you are looking down into the carburetor and push the throttle back, you should see a little fuel squirted out by the accelerator pump. If not, something's probably clogged or the bowl isn't filling.

If you see the accelerator pump squirting fuel out, and can get it to fire a little, but not without pumping the throttle, also check that the idle solenoid is wired and working.

Have you tried starting it off of starting fluid?

The ignition certainly could be a problem, but all the issues you mentioned with rusty gunk in your fuel and fuel line problems I would suspect that first. And also suggest putting a clear filter in front of the fuel pump (i.e. Wix 33002) to see what kinda crud is coming from the tank, if it's rusty.
 
If you are looking down into the carburetor and push the throttle back, you should see a little fuel squirted out by the accelerator pump. If not, something's probably clogged or the bowl isn't filling.

If you see the accelerator pump squirting fuel out, and can get it to fire a little, but not without pumping the throttle, also check that the idle solenoid is wired and working.

Have you tried starting it off of starting fluid?

The ignition certainly could be a problem, but all the issues you mentioned with rusty gunk in your fuel and fuel line problems I would suspect that first. And also suggest putting a clear filter in front of the fuel pump (i.e. Wix 33002) to see what kinda crud is coming from the tank, if it's rusty.


This. Clear $5 filter inline before or after factory filter will catch /display the rusty crap coming from your fuel talk. As long as you’re pulling rust into your carb it’ll not run right.
 
If you are looking down into the carburetor and push the throttle back, you should see a little fuel squirted out by the accelerator pump. If not, something's probably clogged or the bowl isn't filling.

If you see the accelerator pump squirting fuel out, and can get it to fire a little, but not without pumping the throttle, also check that the idle solenoid is wired and working.

Have you tried starting it off of starting fluid?

The ignition certainly could be a problem, but all the issues you mentioned with rusty gunk in your fuel and fuel line problems I would suspect that first. And also suggest putting a clear filter in front of the fuel pump (i.e. Wix 33002) to see what kinda crud is coming from the tank, if it's rusty.
Just wanted to give everyone an update.

Per recommendations, I went ahead and bought the clear Wix Fuel filter. Installed it, and fuel pumped and was free of debris. In addition to that, i purchased a Pertronix II electrionic ignition. I got spark with the points, but I wasnt totally convinced it was sufficient. I removed the points, and made sure vacuum advance and plate were free of debris.

Crossed my fingers, and turned the ignition over, and it started right up!!!

Just wanted to thank everyone for their help.
 

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