Everyday Overdrive (1 Viewer)

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In Oz the OME tyre options were a 7.50r16 (which works out to about 32") or a 31x10.50r15.
These were the options when the vehicle was brand new here, and that is for auto or manual.
So tyres shouldn't be an issue.
In fact, almost everyone over here runs 33x12.50r15 or 16" equivalent. I am about the only bloke I know who is still on 31's, and I am hoping to have 33x10.50's when I next buy tyres.

But I will say that the backspacing is important. I run genuine Yota rims so no problem there, but rims from other vehicles won't fit. I was given a Nissan Patrol rim and it won't clear my brakes.
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31x10.50r15 in the photo, 2" lift but otherwise standard.
Sorry for the silly photo, but it was the only one I can find showing the wheels and tyres. Was posing it for a friend who has a "pretend" 4x4 - this is about all his is good for..... :rofl:
 
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Lol, thanks for the input... seems like a few other “member”s were being a bit pushy, just was asking for a little advise - and it is much appreciated.


No worries. There aren't a lot of folks that really DD their Fj62s. I really only drive my other truck when it's over about an hour drive or I'm towing. There is more latitude for imperfection than a lot of folks think, I just hate to see people throw money and time at a huge project when that might not be the easiest answer.
 
Have you checked the kick down cable for proper function and adjustment? They can be touchy, and tricky. Mine was seized, and I had no overdrive. Shifting from 1st to 3rd was off as well. I also would get the temp light on long drives.
(I found one of the cooler soft lines had a memory bend in it that crimped fluid flow, while I was installing a cooler. I replaced the soft lines after finding this).
The kick down cable looked intact and was adjusted properly, but had been pinched when the motor and tranny were rebuilt/removed by the previous owner. There was no spring action to the cable. It was just “dead” in its sleeve, so to speak. She runs great after replacement of the cable, and the addition of the cooler.

just trying to think at it with you.

Here it is with 235 75 R15.
I have to climb out of town in any direction I choose to go, so I went with close to stock size. It is a wagon after all.
And, it has the OME heavy lift.

I hope you get it sorted out and cruise with confidence again.

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245/75R16 so about 30” with a mild lift. I’m happy with the setup.
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Search around and try to find out what the backspace on them is. I’m pretty sure that you need less than 3.5” of backspace. 3.5” will work but they’re close and you can’t have clip on wheel weights in the inside. That being said lots of people run 1/4” wheel spacers shims. I have 1.5” gun centric wheel spacers on my FJ62. I’m not going rock crawling and doubt they’ll ever be an issue.

The rims are 15s from Cruiser Corps -They say the back spacing is 3.25... You think I’ll be alright running them on 31s?
 
In Oz the OME tyre options were a 7.50r16 (which works out to about 32") or a 31x10.50r15.
These were the options when the vehicle was brand new here, and that is for auto or manual.
So tyres shouldn't be an issue.
In fact, almost everyone over here runs 33x12.50r15 or 16" equivalent. I am about the only bloke I know who is still on 31's, and I am hoping to have 33x10.50's when I next buy tyres.

But I will say that the backspacing is important. I run genuine Yota rims so no problem there, but rims from other vehicles won't fit. I was given a Nissan Patrol rim and it won't clear my brakes.View attachment 2506033

31x10.50r15 in the photo, 2" lift but otherwise standard.
Sorry for the silly photo, but it was the only one I can find showing the wheels and tyres. Was posing it for a friend who has a "pretend" 4x4 - this is about all his is good for..... :rofl:

That’s why I’m ditching the Fuel rims that were on it when I bought it, going with stock 15 steelies...
 
Basically, the problem with rims from other "brands" is that they foul the brake callipers.
If the rims fit over the front brakes, then all should be fine.
As I said, the OE rims either 16" or 15" were originally fitted with tyres between 31 and 32.5, and almost everyone I know over here runs 33's.
Tyre size is not the source of your temp problems.
 
What? You’re about to spend money on different wheels and tires in an effort to lower trans temps and you don’t even have a trans cooler on it?

Its like a 30 minute install. Get that on there ASAP and stop driving with the light on.
The cooler is a must, but if the light is coming on at highway speeds the damage has already been done. The TC is not fully locking up and is continuing to generate heat from the friction, which is harming the internal clutch material in the transmission. He's already in it for either a rebuild or swap no matter what he does at this point. The question now is whether he wants to spend the money on having the auto refurbished, or swapping in an H55F. The H55F swap will be cheaper (when you add the cost of a torque converter to the cost of the auto), but you're still looking at $6K-7K to have it done.

@NOLACC start putting money aside! It's not going to take long at this point.
 
New torque converter, AT cooler, flush, a little rim/tire down size 31BFGs on 15s - riding better than ever. Goes perfectly into overdrive... Handles better than ever... Previous owner put 2” spacers on it, no wonder it felt like the transmission was being strangled when running long distances.

Thanks to all for the info, the new shoes make a HUGE difference.

96C7CEFE-A4F5-40E1-8B32-40CE7C3023E7.jpeg
 
New torque converter, AT cooler, flush, a little rim/tire down size 31BFGs on 15s - riding better than ever. Goes perfectly into overdrive... Handles better than ever... Previous owner put 2” spacers on it, no wonder it felt like the transmission was being strangled when running long distances.

Thanks to all for the info, the new shoes make a HUGE difference.

View attachment 2531390
Damn it, now I’m going to need to find FJ40 wheels
 
Previous owner put 2” spacers on it, no wonder it felt like the transmission was being strangled when running long distances
Are you talking about 2in wheel spacers? How would they strangle the transmission?
 
Are you talking about 2in wheel spacers? How would they strangle the transmission?

The spacers basically extend everything outward, creating inward and downward pressure on everything connected, add ridiculously wide rims and tires from my PO - and it all led to burning umy torque converter...

It all just kind of added up to potentially putting some heavy strain on the transmission.

It’s all case by case, this is just my experience.

There’s always more than 20 ways to skin a cat.
 

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