66 FJ40 Timing Problems (1 Viewer)

[Bzerker999]

I bought a 66 FJ40 in a box plus lots of parts. I have it now running, sort of, and my main problem is the timing/distributor. The distributor in the engine does have a fuel adjustment ( I believe 66 came stock with it) but in one of the parts boxes is a distributor with a fuel adjustment
Now to my problem
I have timed the engine, using the non-fuel adj distributor, per the factory manual, it idles fine but when I hook the vacuum up it back fires and runs like crap. With the vacuum disconnected it no longer backfire but does not have the power it should.
Also I have to run with the choke pulled part way out (either way) and I could not find a leaking vacuum at least not by spraying water over everything.
Note: spark plugs are new so is cap, rotor condenser and plug wires and I have good compression.
The distributor in the box, with fuel adjuster, seem a bit worn and I could not find and points for it.
Question:
Any Idea what brand My non-fuel adjuster is, so far I have not pulled as I am driving the vehicle daily?
Would it be better to rebuild the original with the fuel adjuster?
All suggestion are greatly appreciated. PS this is my 5th FJ40 (since1969) and I have another 68FJ40 parts vehicle.

 

[4Cruisers]

That's properly called an octane selector, used primarily in non-US markets where gasoline octane values can vary widely. You can rotate the knob clockwise to advance the timing or counter-clockwise to retard the timing. There is a base timing mark on the knob that needs to be set before timing the engine. With the octane selector at the base setting, you rotate the distributor to get to the desired timing of 7 degrees BTDC. The base timing is done with the vacuum line disconnected at the distributor.

One common issue in worn distributors is the bushing that the distributor shaft rides in. A worn bushing allows the cam to wobble, constantly changing the point gap and dwell. You can easily check this by trying to move the top of the distributor shaft from side to side, there shouldn't be any (or just a tiny amount) of side play. If there's a lot of side-to-side play at the top of the shaft the distributor's probably not rebuildable. There are a lot of other Toyota and non-Toyota distributor options out there.

A photo of the distributor currently in the engine would be really helpful. It could be that it's a vacuum retard distributor, not vacuum advance.

Not idling without the choke being pulled out is usually a sign of a faulty fuel cut solenoid (or wiring). You should hear a definite click when you turn the ignition key.

 

[Bzerker999]

I just completely re wired this vehicle as the old wiring harness was burn/shorted and had been butchered. I do not hear any click but then I was not listening for one. Where is this solenoid located. The vehicle will idle with the choke not engaged but when you step on the gas it misses terrible and lots of back firing through the carb.
I made a mistake in my above comment the distributor now in the engine "does not" have a octane selector .
I will get a photo of the distributor tomorrow and will check if it is advancing or retarding.
Thank you for the info.

 

[Steamer]

Where is this solenoid located.

The fuel cut off solenoid is screwed into the carb and has a wire going to it. That is unless you don't have the stock carb.
Like 4Cruisers said. Pics help. Several pics of the engine bay from various angles will help even more. You'd be surprised at what some of the guys here can spot and diagnose from good pics.

 

[FJ40Jim]

A 66 F carb is a 1-bbl without fuel solenoid.

The dissy that does not have an octane adjuster may be a vac retard dissy, which should not be connected to vac.
The other end of the vacuum hose that connects to engine needs to be connected to ported vacuum on the carb.

Pics of the dissy in the engine, and the dissy in the 68 parts truck would tell us a lot. Also, a pic of the carb would be helpful.
There's a chance that this has been the victim of a 'upgrade' many moons ago and has the delco dissy and rochester/carter carb.