Cheap effective diff armor for your rear axle (1 Viewer)

[Broski]

There may be some lip at the top, mite be worth pulling the third to make sure it's smooth in side there.

 

[richardlillard1]

I have less issues with the backside of the rear axle housing and more issues with the third itself.

It whines about it, but takes it all in stride.

 

[LINUS]

It’s not any taller then the original other then the 1/4” thicker material. I measured

I was sent a bumpcap that was the 1/2 pipecap intended for the FR diff - had same results as @Broski , so I scrapped a guard due to time constraint. Panhard bar was 100% in the way for me.

I have less issues with the backside of the rear axle housing and more issues with the third itself.

It whines about it, but takes it all in stride.
View attachment 2482188

Somebody made a 1/2 conical / reducer that had 2) ~1” straps that secured the guard - 4 bolts all horizontal oriented.

Been a few yrs, you ever seen it or remember it?

 

[cruisermatt]

I have less issues with the backside of the rear axle housing and more issues with the third itself.

It whines about it, but takes it all in stride.

I end up swapping the third pretty frequently for various reasons so it never gets a chance to get super bad like that but my lower studs are all due for replacement for sure

 

[Broski]

I have less issues with the backside of the rear axle housing and more issues with the third itself.

It whines about it, but takes it all in stride.
View attachment 2482188

This is why I welded a piece of 3/8 plate to the bottom of the housing. It stopped most of the damage to the bolt and studs

 

[80t0ylc]

This is more if a old-school mod, haven't seen anyone do this in years so I figured I'd show it off a bit.........

No disrespect to to you, but there are some things that have been improved by experience over the years.

This is why I welded a piece of 3/8 plate to the bottom of the housing. It stopped most of the damage to the bolt and studs

Agreed. Armor that absorbs the shock & damage and can be replaced if necessary, makes better sense.

I really like the repair you made, it's nice and heavy duty, but the shape, and contours pressed into the factory center section sheet metal are there for a reason. Below is a video that shows what you're axle lube is doing when you're driving down the road, and why the factory goes to the trouble of pressing those different shapes into that cover.

But this is what is of bigger concern. This video is the exactly what I thought of when I first saw this thread, but couldn't remember where to find it.

 

[cruisermatt]

No disrespect to to you, but there are some things that have been improved by experience over the years.
Agreed. Armor that absorbs the shock & damage and can be replaced if necessary, makes better sense.

But this is what is of bigger concern. This video is the exactly what I thought of when I first saw this thread, but couldn't remember where to find it.

You’re right, i don’t have enough experience to make these kinds of mods
I’ll let you know when it blows up from a lack of lubrication
Btw I cruise long distance in this rig at 75-85mph so if anyone will find out it’s me

 

[baldilocks]

This is why I welded a piece of 3/8 plate to the bottom of the housing. It stopped most of the damage to the bolt and studs

Got picture proof? I welded 1/4” plate to the bottom of my rear diff and my studs still getting ground down.

 

[baldilocks]

I end up swapping the third pretty frequently for various reasons so it never gets a chance to get super bad like that but my lower studs are all due for replacement for sure

What are the various reasons? Mine has been in place since 2010 - 4 years before I bought it. Just curious as differentials are not usually messed with once built to the owners liking.

 

[thatcabledude]

You’re right, i don’t have enough experience to make these kinds of mods
I’ll let you know when it blows up from a lack of lubrication
Btw I cruise long distance in this rig at 75-85mph so if anyone will find out it’s me

Whippersnapper

 

[cruisermatt]

What are the various reasons? Mine has been in place since 2010 - 4 years before I bought it. Just curious as differentials are not usually messed with once built to the owners liking.

Worn out pinion bearings, trying different ratios, broken cross pin which took out rest of the diff (Rubicon last August), etc
I haven’t actually broke a pinion or lost teeth on the ring gear yet, not directly anyways

 

[80t0ylc]

You’re right, i don’t have enough experience to make these kinds of mods
I’ll let you know when it blows up from a lack of lubrication
Btw I cruise long distance in this rig at 75-85mph so if anyone will find out it’s me

I'm just amazed at how hot the the diff housings get in both severe off roading and also at highway speeds. Where does the heat come from? Normally there is no combustion going on inside (pun intended ) and if they're well lubed, friction should be at a minimum. I can see the VC getting hot inside a TC and the torque converter in an A/T because of friction, but the heat that healthy diffs see is a mystery - to me. I guess I don't have an appreciation for the forces involved.

 

[SoTexCruiserDoc]

What are the various reasons? Mine has been in place since 2010 - 4 years before I bought it. Just curious as differentials are not usually messed with once built to the owners liking.

“I drive it like I stole it”
@cruisermatt

(and yes on whippersnapper )

 

[baldilocks]

Worn out pinion bearings, trying different ratios, broken cross pin which took out rest of the diff (Rubicon last August), etc
I haven’t actually broke a pinion or lost teeth on the ring gear yet, not directly anyways

Holy Moly! I don’t think I’ve ever seen a broken cross pin. I recently found my rear pinion nut loose but the seal was not leaking. The diff was built using a solid spacer so I just torqued it up. Got a quarter turn in it. She does run a little more quietly now but I figure it won’t last forever. I too run my 80 over long distances so it needs to be reliable.

 

[baldilocks]

“I drive it like I stole it”
@cruisermatt

(and yes on whippersnapper )

Likewise..... the whippersnapper in me....

 

[cruisermatt]

Holy Moly! I don’t think I’ve ever seen a broken cross pin. I recently found my rear pinion nut loose but the seal was not leaking. The diff was built using a solid spacer so I just torqued it up. Got a quarter turn in it. She does run a little more quietly now but I figure it won’t last forever. I too run my 80 over long distances so it needs to be reliable.

In August I broke my first rear crosspin in Colorado on a Friday, then drove 1K miles to Rubicon the next day and broke another one on Sunday. On the Rubicon it was while i was trying to throttle my way up an obstacle so the locker got sent through the housing. Hence the new pipe cap diff cover. Lunchbox locker for the lose. But full float 80 series rear for the win. Been running the same shafts since 2015 without issue there yet. Actually these two crosspin issues are the first rear axle issues I've had from wheeling. ARB going in before the end of the year hopefully.

 

[baldilocks]

In August I broke my first rear crosspin in Colorado on a Friday, then drove 1K miles to Rubicon the next day and broke another one on Sunday. On the Rubicon it was while i was trying to throttle my way up an obstacle so the locker got sent through the housing. Hence the new pipe cap diff cover. Lunchbox locker for the lose. But full float 80 series rear for the win. Been running the same shafts since 2015 without issue there yet. Actually these two crosspin issues are the first rear axle issues I've had from wheeling. ARB going in before the end of the year hopefully.


View attachment 2482826View attachment 2482827View attachment 2482836

I’d say the carrier is worn. No other reason to snap a cross pin twice in a week. We must wheel together someday.

 

[cruisermatt]

I’d say the carrier is worn. No other reason to snap a cross pin twice in a week. We must wheel together someday.

V8, really low gearing, and a heavy right foot are reasons I think. Be careful what you wish for. You might end up on the side of the trail for awhile while I fix broken parts.

 

[cruisermatt]

I'm just amazed at how hot the the diff housings get in both severe off roading and also at highway speeds. Where does the heat come from? Normally there is no combustion going on inside (pun intended ) and if they're well lubed, friction should be at a minimum. I can see the VC getting hot inside a TC and the torque converter in an A/T because of friction, but the heat that healthy diffs see is a mystery - to me. I guess I don't have an appreciation for the forces involved.

They're metal gears. Even with oil there's still friction.
I doubt that a lot of heat is generated when traveling slow offroad. I've never really checked but next time I will.

 

[baldilocks]

V8, really low gearing, and a heavy right foot are reasons I think. Be careful what you wish for. You might end up on the side of the trail for awhile while I fix broken parts.

You have no idea..... bring it.. I’ll be on the Rubicon November 11-12 ish.