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You are golden. Slightly better than chrome and way better than chrome painted with plasti-dip. LolThanks all. The thing about the emissions stuff - after 10 years it is less scary than it is aggravating. Getting all of it off and then on again (especially the EGR) bookends any engine/manifold project with time and headache. Looking at a desmogged or older 2F just makes me wistful. Sh*t like this could almost be fun. But then you find yourself wrestling with the EGR "won't flex" hose and thinking about selling the thing as soon as you're done.
I have timed with my vac gauge before, and it's fun in an old hot rod way, kinda like pouring water into your carb (google that), but I get better results with my really basic timing light. I usually time it, then hook up the vac gauge and set the idle to best reading on that. That's the plan at least!
I'll keep you all posted.
Thanks again to @lcolon for his great head removal thread-
You are golden. Slightly better than chrome and way better than chrome painted with plasti-dip. Lol
Did you adjust them with the engine running? . I tried that.. checked them with engine running but adjusted them with ignition off.Checked the valve lash and yeah, most were a little tight, not crazy tight, but maybe just an ass hair past dead on... Opened up all intakes a tiny bit, all exhausts a little more.
Idle has now smoothed out at 750, and that’s without any carb adjustment. Valves nice and loud. Took it for a longer drive, including a nearby “test hill,” and the warm vacuum reading was a steady 19.
I may advance the timing from 7* to 9* for a little more pep but mostly I just need to drive it.
Did you adjust them with the engine running? . I tried that.. checked them with engine running but adjusted them with ignition off.
Then adjust your timing by setting a cold glass of whiskey on the air cleaner. Lock it in when the waves are smoothestYeah man, I hold the flathead in my teeth, next to my unfiltered Pall Mall. The smoke keeps my mind off the pain!
I do them cold, because I work slow, and I also wantted to check the torque on all the head bolts before doing the valves.
Then adjust your timing by setting a cold glass of whiskey on the air cleaner. Lock it in when the waves are smoothest
The slow cut valves are notorious for leaking. Many drill and tap closed and go w/o. Their are plenty of threads describing how.
Green circle is a casting mark.
Back sorry, I half read, distracted by a bare Chevy block and it’s talking owner. The block “could” be on the wrong way. They do have a right and wrong way. But I kinda doubt it, unless that’s why it’s leaking there. @mwebfj60 did a thread on it. But the slow cuts ARE notorious for leaking too.
Effing carbs... Stick with it or go EFI. Honestly, I miss the carb. It worked well until it didn't.i think this may be the only slow cut that is NOT leaking... though some of the ends up there and that’s what I originally thought.
This one is from up higher. I don’t know if that black block cracks or what. But I think it’s on right bc it’s been that way for 8 years.
I’ll have the carb off shortly and I’m thinking that after 8 years it might be time for a rebuild anyway.
Effing carbs... Stick with it or go EFI. Honestly, I miss the carb. It worked well until it didn't.