It is your call, either work on the quality of the spark, or the fuel delivery. But, I can't make much sense of it being only a first gear thing.
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To answer these questions...If you must pass smog, including a visual inspection, then I would recommend going through the FSM Emissions manual testing procedures to test each part of the EGR system. This will confirm or deny the EGR hunch. You will need to source a replacement part of the EGR that’s failed. Your description of the symptoms doesn’t point towards a failed dizzy vacuum canister. But it’s super easy to test. Fixing a partly malfunctioning dizzy will help overall runability. Pull the cap and pull a vacuum on each canister port and see if the breaker plate moves. If you have a failed vacuum canister or a seized breaker plate, pull your dizzy and send it to @4Cruisers for a refurb. Highly recommended for a dizzy refurb.Even with choke out, it falls a bit.
I will try the EGR today and see if I can check vacuum on Distributor.
What if EGR is the issue? Then what?
What if distributor is the issue? Then what?
The carb was just rebuilt by Marvin.
Verify that specific brand of carb cleaner is flammable...some are not.Spray carb cleaner to the base of the carb at idle and see if any spot location hit with carb cleaner causes a rev up.
nothing wrong with the carb. Went through all that. Marlin not Marvin. Sorry
I can only speak from my own experiences with a 3/79 original US spec carb. It's been well maintained since new. My carb works great. Instant startup in all weather, quick warmup time on winter mornings at half-choke, secondary opens when required and acceleration is smooth and good. Pulls up hills well even when not fully warm. The 8/80 and later carb is a slightly lower overall profile, has a larger diameter secondary, and many of them have provision for AC idle-up. If there is some other difference I am missing, then we need the carb experts to weigh in. Other than that they are pretty similar. I have heard folks criticize the smaller secondary on the 1/79-7/80 carbs, but I disagree that it is a reason by itself to swap the carb.What is better about the 81+ carburetor?
The accelerator pump is a small piston that delivers a small shot of fuel right off idle. It's a component of the carburetor itself, not the fuel pump. (Just to make sure we aren't talking past each other.) The seal on the accelerator pump piston can wear or dry up and cause it to have a poor seal which will result in an insufficient shot of fuel before engine vacuum takes over. The accelerator pump is a component that often needs to be replaced after a vehicle is stored for an extended time and sometimes they just plain wear out.Very short . only on first initial acceleration from a stop or idle. ... Can't see how that would be the pump.