Carburetor Issue (1 Viewer)

[Legacy]

This may have been covered but I can't seem to find anything about it. 1984 FJ60 w/4.2L carb (21100-61141 I think, no tag) rebuild in progress due to having to prime the carb to get it started. Watching Pinhead on youtube for advice. Got to the point where he pulls the spring under the accelerator pump then the small clip and pulls out a ball bearing. I did the same and didn't find the ball bearing. Hole in the bottom filled with yellow substance. Soaked in Berryman Carb cleaner which removed the yellow substance. Found journal between that hole and the float bowl clogged after soaking for 4 hours. Resoaked the accelerator pump hole and float bowl another few hours and tried compressed air. No luck. Stuck small diameter wire through hole in bowl about an inch and probably past the accelerator hole which didn't work either. Pretty hard to go the other direction. My question at this point is, I guess, did Toyota make some carbs without the ball bearing in the accelerator bottom hole and not drill the hole deep enough to connect to the hole from the bowl? Any help would be appreciated since I'm stuck at this point as to what to do. Thank you, Phil

 

[OSS]

The person who tried to rebuild it previously lost the check ball. There's nowhere it can escape to on its own inside the accelerator pump bore.
Since the fuel passage seems to be clogged with debris too and the last person messed up the rebuild, losing parts, I'd rather find a new non USA Japanese carb then try to resuscitate that thing

 

[Legacy]

Well to my knowledge it was never rebuilt but I'm not saying it wasn't. I just wasn't aware of it if it was and it's been in the family since it was bought. With the debris gone now one would think the journal would connect but maybe the hole was compromised during an unknown rebuild. I've hand twisted a drill bit into the hole and no other debris comes out and I know the wire I've pushed through is going past the recess in the bottom of the accelerator pump hole. So I guess what you are saying is all the carbs have the ball bearing and the journal should connect to the bowl? I really appreciate your input as well but with the hygrade kit and berryman paid for and a new carb costing hundreds of $ I'm not giving up yet. Too hard headed for that. Lol

 

[Legacy]

Just another quick observation after finding a drill bit that fits all the way to the bottom of the recess in the accelerator pump hole. There is no way that recess is deep enough to reach the journal drilled from the outside through to the bowl hole and there is nothing but metal in the bottom. Maybe my dad bought a LC with a carb made on a Friday and the machinist was tired? Lol

 

[greenwheels]

sympathies. Trying to overhaul mine now. For three days I alternated between soaking in Berryman chemical dip and brake cleaner. Looked into bore with scope without any conclusion if there was a ball was there. Finally turned upside down and rapped sharply with a small hammer. Out came the check ball. Keep trying, it is probably there but looking at a ball from the top is a difficult task. I even tried a magnet without success.

 

[Legacy]

Thank you for your reply and I have to admit you gave me the initiative this morning to try again after reading what you wrote. I was ready to just put it back together and see if she would start. I did try striking the bottom of the casting with a small hammer to no avail so I came up with something else and I want to share it because there are probably others out there that are about to "just go buy new non USA Japanese carb." Well I'm trying to keep her stock because the LC carb is supposed to be the best carb for these vehicles from what I've read and they retain their value that much more doing so. Referring back to Pinheads videos he mentions that you should be able to hear the ball bearing rolling around in it's nest after you install it so that means there is clearance around the ball in it's hole. That gave me the idea of scraping around the inside of the recess with a small eyeglass common screwdriver for a while with the bottom soaking in brake cleaner. I used brake cleaner because an old friend of mine who had a vehicle maintenance shop told me that he got better results using brake cleaner over carb cleaner and I'm glad you mentioned it too. I then fashioned a small round metal brush using an old piece of bicycle brake cable and attached it to my cordless HIlti. Pic attached. Just after a few minutes of using the tool in the bottom of the hole, alternating between forward and reverse. I decided to turn the casting up side down to empty the brake cleaner from the hole. While doing that the ball fell out. I am so thankful that you gave me the incentive to try again and to never give up. That should be everyone's philosophy until they just can't try anymore and have exhausted all of their options. Hooah!

 

[2mbb]

I don't suppose you are using the 2F engine factory service manual (FSM) to help with the rebuild? If not, I highly recommend it. Below is the schematic of the carb from the FSM. There are two check balls, both associated with the accelerator pump. But they are different sizes. The one under the pump (on the suction side) is smaller than the one under the discharge weight. Make sure you install them correctly.

 

[Legacy]

No you're right I do not have the FSM but I really do appreciate your advice and schematic. That's great information and I remember Pinhead mentioning it in his videos. With any luck I will get her started today and it will be a success. Thanks again for the info and advice. God Bless.

 

[2mbb]

do a search for user "seth s". In his post footer he has a link to a dropbox folder that has the 2F engine manual in PDF. The carburetor rebuild is contained in that manual. You may have to do this on your computer because I didn't see his footer when using a phone.

 

[Spike Strip]

Small ball/Large Hole ... Large Ball/Small hole

There should be new check balls in the rebuild kit. Don't reuse the old ones. They give new ones in the kit for a reason.

The yellowish stuff is most likely mineral residue from water getting into the carb through the Air Cleaner where the hold-down nut is. There's supposed to be a rubber washer to seal it up but it's almost always missing or deteriorated.

Good Luck!

 

[BaristaBoy]

Oh, thank god for this thread. I was getting ready to put mine back on with only 1 ball in it, My Haynes manual made it look like you only needed the large ball.

 

[Legacy]

do a search for user "seth s". In his post footer he has a link to a dropbox folder that has the 2F engine manual in PDF. The carburetor rebuild is contained in that manual. You may have to do this on your computer because I didn't see his footer when using a phone.

Thank you very much for that information. I found the drop box and it contains quit a few files so I am going to post the link here for anyone else that needs this information.

TOYOTA FSM

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[Legacy]

Small ball/Large Hole ... Large Ball/Small hole

There should be new check balls in the rebuild kit. Don't reuse the old ones. They give new ones in the kit for a reason.

The yellowish stuff is most likely mineral residue from water getting into the carb through the Air Cleaner where the hold-down nut is. There's supposed to be a rubber washer to seal it up but it's almost always missing or deteriorated.

Good Luck!

You are right. The kit comes with new ones and I was able to put those to use. I'm not sure what the yellow residue is from. This vehicle has lived it's whole life in NM and it's not like we get a lot of moisture here. All my washers have the rubber on them still but I did notice the rubber boot for the accelerator pump was ripped so that's a likely spot for water to get in. Could just be old gas that turned into lacquer over the years during prolonged down time which this vehicle has had a bit of. Hopefully that won't be the case from here on out after I get here running today! Fingers crossed....................

 

[Legacy]

Oh, thank god for this thread. I was getting ready to put mine back on with only 1 ball in it, My Haynes manual made it look like you only needed the large ball.

I feel your pain my friend. Today will be number 4 of trying to get this right for me and I'm praying she starts up without having to prime her every time I decide to show Albuquerque/Rio Rancho what a LC used to look like. Love that TOYOTA emblem on the from grill. Now days I have a hard time telling if a newer LC isn't another make of some kind because they got rid of that emblem. Glad my first thread was something worthwhile and that it helped you out. God Bless

 

[Legacy]

Success. No more priming to get her started. Idles a little rough so I guess I need to raise that. Idles too high when the AC is on but it's a new starting place that seems much nicer than the one before. Thanks for all the input and advice I have received during this adventure, it really helped. Next on the list, front windshield wipers that won't turn off. Sigh.......lol

 

[jkaylor83FJ60]

Having carb issues too as well. Mine would not idle, so we soaked it and rebuilt it, now it idles awesome, however, everytime it sits for a long perior >4 hours, the entire carb bowl drains down and I have to chock it and spin it for 30 seconds to fill it back up and get it to start.

 

[Legacy]

Having carb issues too as well. Mine would not idle, so we soaked it and rebuilt it, now it idles awesome, however, everytime it sits for a long perior >4 hours, the entire carb bowl drains down and I have to chock it and spin it for 30 seconds to fill it back up and get it to start.

he m
Prior to rebuilding mine we thought the bowl was somehow siphoning all the fuel back to the tank so we installed an electric fuel pump to help the mechanical. I even went as far as to put a one way check valve on the fuel line after the mechanical. None of that did much good. Not sure how you can tell your bowl is draining but what you are experiencing seems alot like what I was going though before my carb rebuild. Are you sure the journal between the float bowl and the accelerator pump was free flowing before you put it back together?

 

[2mbb]

Unless you have a leak someplace like the access ports at the front and bottom of the bowl, the fuel can't really leak out all the exits are higher than the centerline of the bowl.

When the truck is running, can you see fuel in the middle of the sight glass? After sitting for 4 hours, can you still see fuel in the sight glass? Does your carburetor fan work? Is your charcoal canister working. What is your procedure for starting the engine hot vs. cold?

 

[RIDGEROCK49]

Hello, I am hoping my carb issue is less troublesome... My mechanic says gas is flowing into one carb chamber too rapidly which is causing a missfire. Ordered a carb rebild kit but same problem happens. Its a weber carb. 1968 F engine I believe. Any help much appreciated!!!

rw

 

[Legacy]

Hello, I am hoping my carb issue is less troublesome... My mechanic says gas is flowing into one carb chamber too rapidly which is causing a missfire. Ordered a carb rebild kit but same problem happens. Its a weber carb. 1968 F engine I believe. Any help much appreciated!!!

rw

I feel your pain but my best advice would be to go back to the original carb. I did a lot of research before deciding to rebuild mine and even ordered a weber from somewhere but decided to send it back after reading what I read. Probably very difficult to go backwards for you so hopefully someone on here can give you some better advice than what I have to offer. Good luck.