1996 FZJ80 Bought, Work in progress (1 Viewer)

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I'm all for doing whatever you can on your own. Just know that bleeding the system is quite involved on these vehicles. I don't have help so I wasn't able to complete mine on my own.
Its braking way better than the other day so i'm not sure what the issue is with the master cylinder, or brake booster. Good to know -bleeding it does seem like a hassle.
 
Its braking way better than the other day so i'm not sure what the issue is with the master cylinder, or brake booster. Good to know -bleeding it does seem like a hassle.

When the shop did mine (only time ever paying a shop to do work for me) they said it was all bled and working but the pedal would get too close to the floor and wasn't holding as well as they would like

What kind of symptoms are there now?

Don't skimp if you need it
 
When the shop did mine (only time ever paying a shop to do work for me) they said it was all bled and working but the pedal would get too close to the floor and wasn't holding as well as they would like

What kind of symptoms are there now?

Don't skimp if you need it
none that I can tell, it is responding well as soon as press.
 
Those are 1st gen Tundra wheels. I coveted them when I had my 2000 Tundra.

So did you buy this yet or are you just in possession of it? Either way, taking it the mechanic for very many issues (including the brake job) will be a quick way to turn this good deal into a not-so-good deal. Try to use the mechanic only for things you don't have time for. The rear brake job shouldn't be too difficult.
 
Those are 1st gen Tundra wheels. I coveted them when I had my 2000 Tundra.

So did you buy this yet or are you just in possession of it? Either way, taking it the mechanic for very many issues (including the brake job) will be a quick way to turn this good deal into a not-so-good deal. Try to use the mechanic only for things you don't have time for. The rear brake job shouldn't be too difficult.
Yes! I bought it - I took it in to the mechanic immediately to fix the brake issue as I didn't even want to drive it to the garage im doing work on it in. They ended up doing more than just the rear passenger caliper and pad, they did both rear rotors, calipers, and new pads on all brakes. Then they wanted to do the master cylinder and potentially the power booster. I picked it up and started ordering parts to get to work on it on my own - that spreadsheet up above shows the things I have ordered so far and i'm still updating it with the vehicle history tab that shows recorded work by mechanics which i have a binder with all receipts for. One of the things that bothered me when I took it to the mechanic is they would default to just ordering whatever cheap part from orielly's - unless you specifically told them not to. I could see how quality and cost wise you take a huge hit by using mechanics unless you brought your owns parts to them. I wish I had time for that brake job, but he did only charge me $90 for the labor which was nice. I'm starting on the master cylinder this weekend.
 
There is at least one club in Montana you could get in touch with, if you haven't already, which could give you beta on local shops if you run into problems.

Good luck!
 
Anyone have advice on radiators and PHH. Found one OEM from Olathe Toyota for $445 +also grabbing the three radiator hoses and clamps.
I should also also ask what do you all think about grabbing the brass radiator from the 93-94 FZ? It is cheaper in price, maybe a lot heavier being brass - but also maybe cools better?
Radiator - Toyota (16400-66040)

PHH, would you guys reccommend 1FZ-FE PHH – Kit 1 or the OEM...or the bypass?

And while i'm at it I feel like maybe I should just do the thermostat, water, pump, idler pulleys (have that high pitched whine when running the engine), fan clutch, heater hoses... whole cooling system basically - I don't see anything in the history so much or all of the system is about 24 years old.
 
Get the OEM Radiator for that year. The metal radiator referred to as brass does not cool better.

Buy the kit if you want to work at it. OEM if you want to work at it more. Get the bypass kit if you want to work a little less.

Yes, may as well do ALL that. I Also recommend doing your rear heater hoses as well (or do the rear heater bypass/delete at the same time. The hard lines that go over the transmission cannot be changed unless you drop the transmission. I did not change my hoses and I'm living on borrowed time.
 
I'd also do the smaller coolant hoses. Wits End has a "little hose" kit I think it's called, including the one under the throttle body and a couple others.

Heater valve and hoses also
 
Oh and while you have the radiator out, do the timing cover seal, front main seal, distributor o-ring (wits end has a kit for these 3).. And rebuild the power steering since you'll be able to reach it easily.

When I do the above I'll be replacing the alternator and a few other things (belts etc)
 
So far,
Brake vacuum hose, check valve, check valve grommet replaced
Thermostat and thermostat seal replaced
Radiator hoses replaced
Curved heater hoses removal on T pipe, need to put the new ones on but trying to find better clamps for them.
Distributor - cap replaced, O-ring replaced, rotor replaced, seal packing replaced (old O-ring just cracked apart).

Will get the master cylinder back in tomorrow(just received the new gasket (threebond, way different material than the rubber one that I pulled off), then maybe start on the valve cover gasket, PCV valve or front main seal and oil pump work.

Beyond that thinking about the power steering rebuild @Killdozer1776 mentioned, refreshing the water pump, and maybe alternator as well before I put the new radiator back in. I also noticed brake line leak near passenger door and hydraulic fluid leak from rear shock which looks stock.
 
What a treat this was, removed this phh neighbor and the phh, got the new phh on. Trying to figure out clamp tightness now.

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Been getting things done here and there, definitely coming together. I am about ready to put the valve cover back on and radiator/fan back in. I have some broken pieces on my headlight assembly so trying to look for option there -was ziptied to the body. Also thinking about ordering that Power Steering rebuild now.

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Been getting things done here and there, definitely coming together. I am about ready to put the valve cover back on and radiator/fan back in. I have some broken pieces on my headlight assembly so trying to look for option there -was ziptied to the body. Also thinking about ordering that Power Steering rebuild now.

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Cool. What happened to the hot girl that sold it to you? Did you marry her and she ran off with most of your money and your dog?
 
@MarcusAurelius The best way to clean that engine bay is with oven cleaner. keep spraying and let is soak. Eats all grease away. You want that thing as clean as possible to work on.
 
Do you have to worry about emissions up there? I would get the EGR delete.
Change those rims too. Or paint them black for petes sake.

Do a turbo next! And get a pic of that chick up!
 

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