Anyone have the JT Outfitters disc conversion kit on their 40? How has it performed and will it fit stock Toyota welded 15 inch wheels? (1 Viewer)

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Anyone have the JT Outfitters disc conversion kit on their 40? How has it performed and will it fit stock Toyota welded 15 inch wheels? I have riveted 15 inch wheels now and buying newer welded wheels .
 
I prefer staying Toyota, either 60 series or mini truck or later 40, then you will know what parts to get when they wear out, and your front axle probably needs gone thru anyway.
 
I prefer staying Toyota, either 60 series or mini truck or later 40, then you will know what parts to get when they wear out, and your front axle probably needs gone thru anyway.

I don't take it on the freeway. Local roads in my town.
 
Have you searched on front disk brake conversion?

There's a ton of info on using Toyota OEM parts for this conversion.

The JT kit uses a custom, non-OEM, bracket for the caliper. Personally, I would not trust my primary braking system to a part that is not designed by an automotive engineer and tested to safety standards.

Also, they specifically say the kit is for Off-Road Use Only. It's buried in the install instructions.
 
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Anyone have the JT Outfitters disc conversion kit on their 40? How has it performed and will it fit stock Toyota welded 15 inch wheels? I have riveted 15 inch wheels now and buying newer welded wheels .

I have the JTO disc conversion on the front of my 72, with welded 15" stock rims. Yes, they will fit. I believe the instructions tell you what caliper, rotor and pads to purchase. I've had them on for about 1,000 miles and they have worked flawlessly. There is a lot of hate on here for JTO, but the product has been great. Their customer service is terrible, but I have had no issues with the product and the truck stops amazing. It was also a very easy install.
 
I have the JTO disc conversion on the front of my 72, with welded 15" stock rims. Yes, they will fit. I believe the instructions tell you what caliper, rotor and pads to purchase. I've had them on for about 1,000 miles and they have worked flawlessly. There is a lot of hate on here for JTO, but the product has been great. Their customer service is terrible, but I have had no issues with the product and the truck stops amazing. It was also a very easy install.

Thank you, that was exactly what I needed to hear.
 
There is a lot of hate on here for JTO,
No hate here, just facts. They should put the off-road use only statement up front, not buried in the document you read after you have already bought it. Its about making an informed decision.

JT has some good products. I usually check them when I am looking for something.
 
No hate here, just facts. They should put the off-road use only statement up front, not buried in the document you read after you have already bought it. Its about making an informed decision.

JT has some good products. I usually check them when I am looking for something.

I understand but I've yet to hear a first person account of a JTO bracket actually breaking.
 
Ya cuz you definitely can’t plow into the back of a family of 4 in a Camry on local roads:flipoff2:

Well there are four brakes. Rear and front have independent circuits. Even if one went out you still have three brakes. Doubtful for a total brake failure
 
I put them on my 77 eleven years ago and have had absolutely zero problems

FJ brakes.jpg


Fj40 008.jpg
 
I haven't heard of a lot of first hand questionable products failing but there are many recalls on the books.

To the guy with "a lot of people hating" on JTO, there hasn't been in this thread... But please do a search to find out JTO's reputation.

The effort to do a JTO conversion is just slightly less than doing the conversion using a Toyota axle if you don't get an FJ40 disc brake axle. As I note, you end up with stronger knuckles(seen many a report of the small bolt pattern failed), stronger birfields(seen these fail first hand), etc. The added benefit of doing a full Toyota conversion is you can finish fully rebuilding your front axle.

Its been super hard finding fj60 parts.got a source?
 
Before you there are essentially two paths ahead of you:

1) The first you’re considering is JTO, known for their terrible customer service, and that uses marginal component at best. Mid sized car single piston callipers being mounted on a 4K+ 4x4 with large tires. It also uses weaker coarse spline birth fields and welded calliper mounts. I can’t spot the photos here on mud of the broken brackets I’ve seen... but do remember seeing them.

2) Four piston callipers which are one of the best and strongest designs on the market. The conversion is easy enough to do and figure out that I, back as a 20 year old, figured it all out in my driveway without a manual, instructions, or guidance of any sort. All the components are readily available off the shelf parts that don’t need custom machining. They’re all DOT street legal and work exceptionally well.

No hate here just facts. If you’re driving a heavy 4x4 with larger tires... I guaranteed you’ll never wish you had less brakes. Just in case you’re ever pulling a trailer and hauling a heavy load... and a kid runs out in front of you. Less brakes are fine right.

So if you really want brakes that are for off road use only, have less power, and might break... go for it.

BTW, my first set of disc brake pads lasted 20 years and 100k miles. I used $21 organic pads, stock Toyota rotors, and four piston callipers that I rebuilt in the garage.
 
I’ve got disc up front from the factory, but recently did disc in the rear. I only used the brackets from JTO. I found a better caliper for cheaper else where. Everything seems to function fine, and I don’t have any reason to question quality...... I’ve only put around 20 miles since installation, So we will see.


If my LC had drum brakes up front, I would want to go all OEM.
 
Save your time and money. Buy somewhere else. I've ordered from them about 6 times. I get suckered into buying from them since they're so close. Twice I haven't gotten my order. The other times were fine. I actually ordered their front brake kit. The left caliper seized, and I had no idea what it was from to replace. I called and they told me to buy another kit. Ended up replacing with a later 40 setup. I should have done that at the beginning and saved some $$.
 
Its been super hard finding fj60 parts.got a source?
Cragslist, FB Marketplace & IH8MUD classifieds (including club forums) are probably the primary sites.

Place Wanted ads - there's a lot of parts not advertised, but may be available if the owner is reminded they have them :)

Patience, lots of patience, lots and lots of patience.

You can also use mini truck front axle parts, don't forget that (see FAQs for more info)

Lastly, it probably won't be cheap, but likely cheaper than a kit, and higher quality.
 
Before you there are essentially two paths ahead of you:

1) The first you’re considering is JTO, known for their terrible customer service, and that uses marginal component at best. Mid sized car single piston callipers being mounted on a 4K+ 4x4 with large tires. It also uses weaker coarse spline birth fields and welded calliper mounts. I can’t spot the photos here on mud of the broken brackets I’ve seen... but do remember seeing them.

2) Four piston callipers which are one of the best and strongest designs on the market. The conversion is easy enough to do and figure out that I, back as a 20 year old, figured it all out in my driveway without a manual, instructions, or guidance of any sort. All the components are readily available off the shelf parts that don’t need custom machining. They’re all DOT street legal and work exceptionally well.

No hate here just facts. If you’re driving a heavy 4x4 with larger tires... I guaranteed you’ll never wish you had less brakes. Just in case you’re ever pulling a trailer and hauling a heavy load... and a kid runs out in front of you. Less brakes are fine right.

So if you really want brakes that are for off road use only, have less power, and might break... go for it.

BTW, my first set of disc brake pads lasted 20 years and 100k miles. I used $21 organic pads, stock Toyota rotors, and four piston callipers that I rebuilt in the garage.

FJ40 net weight is 3500 lbs and gross is 5100 lbs. So 2 big guys plus’s their gear in and FJ40 is about max.

Late 80’s Monte Carlo curb weight is 3200 lbs, and with two big guys plus gear would probably be in the 5000 lbs range.

Unless you’re into a Chevy conversion with High HP, I think the JT adaptors are fine. My biggest worry is bending of the brackets during hard braking.

Also, if you go with the Monte Carlo brake option on all 4 corners, a proportioning valve and residual valves are included in your upgrade.

I run the Monte Carlo brakes without power....takes some peddle effort....but will lock up and you can feel the proportioning valve relieve just as the rear gets light.
 
FJ40 net weight is 3500 lbs and gross is 5100 lbs. So 2 big guys plus’s their gear in and FJ40 is about max.

Late 80’s Monte Carlo curb weight is 3200 lbs, and with two big guys plus gear would probably be in the 5000 lbs range.

Unless you’re into a Chevy conversion with High HP, I think the JT adaptors are fine. My biggest worry is bending of the brackets during hard braking.

Also, if you go with the Monte Carlo brake option on all 4 corners, a proportioning valve and residual valves are included in your upgrade.

I run the Monte Carlo brakes without power....takes some peddle effort....but will lock up and you can feel the proportioning valve relieve just as the rear gets light.
Length of lever arm.

The weight comparison only works if you’re running the same size of tires. Say both with 24 inch tires. Given a 40s stock tires are around 29” and most are sporting 31” of 33” tires, the brakes force is significantly less. A quick calculation would put it at 25% less than a Monte Carlo.

I’d want more not less. With 4 wheel disc’s using Toyota in the front, Blazer callipers & rotors out back, 80 master & booster, I’ve got way more. Braking is awesome... I’ve easily stopped my 4700 lb 40 towing a 4000 lb trailer without needing any brakes on the trailer. With a jab of two fingers it’ll lock up all 4 wheels on dry pavement. With steadily applied pressure they are very hard to lock.
To each his own... but I feel the cheaper, stronger, more powerful option is better. I’d go that way every time.
 
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Length of lever arm.

The weight comparison only works if you’re running the same size of tires. Say both with 24 inch tires. Given a 40s stock tires are around 29” and most are sporting 31” of 33” tires, the brakes force is significantly less. A quick calculation would put it at 25% less than a Monte Carlo.

I’d want more not less. With 4 wheel disc’s using Toyota in the front, Blazer callipers & rotors out back, 80 master & booster, I’ve got way more. Braking is awesome... I’ve easily stopped my 4700 lb 40 towing a 4000 lb trailer without needing any brakes on the trailer. With a jab of two fingers it’ll lock up all 4 wheels on dry pavement. With steadily applied pressure they are very hard to lock.
To each his own... but I feel the cheaper, stronger, more powerful option is better. I’d go that way every time.

F = MA.....for a given mass, to establish a a given rate of negative acceleration (braking), would determine the force required. With the same rotor sweep area, larger tires would require more peddle pressure, but not that much more....in your case you run a booster....you probably wouldn’t notice....Running higher friction pads would compensate or even a larger sweep area. However, those are minor variables compared to the mass. Mass is the big player here.
 

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